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Oneway Coring

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I have used the Oneway Coring System for years with no problems until this week. My # 2 knife is being pushed against the left side of the kerf where it binds. #3 support finger will only go into the kerf for about 2" before it binds. #4 knife works fine. I have checked each cutter to make sure I am on center and that it is rubbing on the support finger. Everything is locked down tight, nothing is slipping. Any suggestions? Thanks
 
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If you are coring from dead center on the lathe, there should be no binding. If you are off to either side for coring deeper or more shallow, the blades will bind. They are set up for fairly specific cuts. You can still go off center, but you have to open up the kerf a bit.

robo hippy
 
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Paul when I spent a few days with Chris Ramsey (my main reason for going was to see him core the hat was secondary). What Chris does is when he backs out of a cut to clear chips he then pulls slightly on the cutter when going back to the cut and then he retracts and pushes on the cutter bar getting back to the cut. What that does is it gives probably an extra 1/64" clearance on each side and only takes a few seconds. For our little club meeting yesterday they wanted to see coring so Dave Betler who went with me to spend time with Chris demoed this in the coring. Another thing I've done is make a drawing of the arc of each cutter so you have a comparison of each cutters arc if you run into a problem like a bend? The cutters can bend. And I'll again say Oneway should make available a video of Chris Ramsey using the Oneway Coring System because the videos out there really suck and the system is really so much more versatile than given credit for.
 

Randy Anderson

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I've had the same problem with mine from time to time and after a lot of pondering I've simply concluded there is a "sweet spot" for them to operate within and if outside that for bowl dia or depth it can happen. I looked at the Glen Lucas video for some mods to try. Worst encounter for me was on a couple of natural edge bowls where the cutter was out of the sweet spot curve enough for the support finger to catch on a bowl wing as it came around. Nasty instant and destructive stop. In the open air between tall wings on the bowl I think the support finger can swing or move in or out, depending on the bind being on the outside edge or inside edge, and catch. Sounds like you've used yours more than I have but, It's hard for me to believe the steel on the arm and finger can bend or change shape. They're very thick and sturdy but, it does take a beating on some cores.

Bill, have you checked and confirmed they can/do bend? I'll try to find the Chris R video. I've never seen anyone do a video on using the coring system on natural edge bowls. Maybe it's not intended for that.
 
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I've had the same problem with mine from time to time and after a lot of pondering I've simply concluded there is a "sweet spot" for them to operate within and if outside that for bowl dia or depth it can happen. I looked at the Glen Lucas video for some mods to try. Worst encounter for me was on a couple of natural edge bowls where the cutter was out of the sweet spot curve enough for the support finger to catch on a bowl wing as it came around. Nasty instant and destructive stop. In the open air between tall wings on the bowl I think the support finger can swing or move in or out, depending on the bind being on the outside edge or inside edge, and catch. Sounds like you've used yours more than I have but, It's hard for me to believe the steel on the arm and finger can bend or change shape. They're very thick and sturdy but, it does take a beating on some cores.

Bill, have you checked and confirmed they can/do bend? I'll try to find the Chris R video. I've never seen anyone do a video on using the coring system on natural edge bowls. Maybe it's not intended for that.
I cringe just thinking about the support finger swinging slightly to one side so it's slammed by the wood. Wonder if the McNaughton might be better for natural edge bowls since no support arm to get a catch?

As far as the OneWay Coring system... Seems OneWay could make a round concave groove on bottom of cutter and a matching round covex grind on the top of the support arm to keep both parts aligned.
 
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Randy what I said is that Oneway should get Chris to do a video. At the moment no video available from Chris. The Oneway coring that Chris did was on a natural edge burl and no problem, 9 cores. In one of the cores the cutter did bend but Chris pulled it out and he straightened it with a wrench I believe and then right back in and finished the cut. When that happened both Dave and I had the same thought that a new cutter was going to be purchased, it was truly bent. I have never seen the support finger move once centered and tightened down. I have owned and used all 3 systems and I truly hated the McNaughton. If there was no Oneway the Woodcuts would be what I used and I am interested to see what Woodcut does to improve on the Woodcut 3.
 

Randy Anderson

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Bill, that explains why I couldn't find a video of Chris using the system. Wow, looking at the steel that it's made of it's hard to believe it can bend but, seems it can. My finger doesn't move at the base. It's that it can swing in the post which is by design but if it does swing a little while in the open air space between the high wings and catches then it's a rough catch and ruins the piece. Like Karl says, a groove and notch in the finger and cutter arm would perhaps keep them lined up together.
 
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Recently, I cored several natural edge walnut bowls. I was concerned about he support swinging out of line. My solution was to apply a magnet on the side of the support, near the post, that spanned the knife and support and kept them in line. Once I had a full circle cut so the support was trapped, I removed the magnet. May not have been required, but made me feel better.
 

Randy Anderson

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Keith, clever idea. I've thought about how to fix the support finger and cutter arm together until I get past what I call the event horizon on the inside. I assume you had a very strong magnet.
 
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I assume you had a very strong magnet

Randy I use a 1 inch dia rare earth magnet. I thought of using one on each side, but one was enough for me to feel comfortable.

20211013_183446.jpg
 
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I have used the Oneway Coring System for years with no problems until this week. My # 2 knife is being pushed against the left side of the kerf where it binds. #3 support finger will only go into the kerf for about 2" before it binds. #4 knife works fine. I have checked each cutter to make sure I am on center and that it is rubbing on the support finger. Everything is locked down tight, nothing is slipping. Any suggestions? Thanks
Just got mine out of the box for the first time. #2 went ok, though I had some learning to do. #3 support finger made me swear like the sailor I am. No orientation or adjustment would solve this problem. I’m going to try the push/pull method and see. Made for a very long afternoon. I thought about taking a grinder to it.
 
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Randy what I said is that Oneway should get Chris to do a video. At the moment no video available from Chris. The Oneway coring that Chris did was on a natural edge burl and no problem, 9 cores. In one of the cores the cutter did bend but Chris pulled it out and he straightened it with a wrench I believe and then right back in and finished the cut. When that happened both Dave and I had the same thought that a new cutter was going to be purchased, it was truly bent. I have never seen the support finger move once centered and tightened down. I have owned and used all 3 systems and I truly hated the McNaughton. If there was no Oneway the Woodcuts would be what I used and I am interested to see what Woodcut does to improve on the Woodcut 3.
Bill,
I have the WoodCut 3 and while I like it, the cutter arm is not supported by anything while it's cutting the wood. A good friend of mine has the One Way system and after using it, I wish I had purchased the One Way system instead.
 
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Paul I had the luxury of having all 3 systems at the same time (I had the original Woodcut but they sent me the Woodcut 3 when I was going to do an article on all three systems). Yes the Woodcut blade is unsupported but it is strong enough for its intended purpose. With the borrowed Woodcut 3 I cored the absolute hardest piece of Ash that I have ever seen and I did not baby it, it was a little bit scary the way this wood growled (this was a 16" core). I core differently than most as I start with the largest core, (I start everything on a screw in the chuck, the piece goes back on the screw for each core that way when done coring each core has a tenon on it). I still am looking forward to see how Woodcut improves their big coring system. It would be hard to get me to switch especially now that I use the KorPro by Hunter Tool Systems, its a game changer.
 
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I have one of the original Woodcut 2 blade systems. I do like the cutters on it. I did feel like it was a bit flimsy. When coring some osage, I was getting a fair amount of chattering. I don't consider the tailstock mount that was on it to be beefy enough for the way I turn. Never really got a look at the 3. They did make the plate more heavy duty, and that attachment to the tailstock was better. If Oneway made, or can figure out how to make, a system where the support finger advances with the coring blade, it would be an excellent system. Their cutter heads are terrible.

robo hippy
 

Randy Anderson

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I mainly turn natural edge bowls (it's what sells) and unless it's really worth the effort I don't core much with my Oneway due to the risk and experience of having the support finger catch on a wing. I'll try to core with the support finger in far enough to help but not swinging out into the open space, especially on a steep winged bowl. That said, coring in too deep without the support finger when the cutter is banging in between the open space and wings is risky as well. Net, a design that kept the support finger and cutter aligned or as Robo says, advance with the cutter would be a help. Haven't attempted the magnet tip from Keith yet. I've looked at the Korpro replacement cutter but the price is far too high to justify.
 
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I know this is an oldish thread, but I bought the oneway coring system a few moths ago and my #2 support finger wouldn't fit no matter what I would do. I called oneway and they said that there has been a batch that was welded wrong. Kind of a relief to find that out after a couple hours of positioning it every way I could think of trying to figure out what I was doing wrong. They're sending me a new piece eventually. Might be worth a call to them.
 
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I mainly turn natural edge bowls (it's what sells) and unless it's really worth the effort I don't core much with my Oneway due to the risk and experience of having the support finger catch on a wing. I'll try to core with the support finger in far enough to help but not swinging out into the open space, especially on a steep winged bowl. That said, coring in too deep without the support finger when the cutter is banging in between the open space and wings is risky as well. Net, a design that kept the support finger and cutter aligned or as Robo says, advance with the cutter would be a help. Haven't attempted the magnet tip from Keith yet. I've looked at the Korpro replacement cutter but the price is far too high to justify.
@Randy Anderson, Have you tried creating a clip to put over the cutter and support bar (think upside down u) in order to lock them together. The clip could be removed once the support arm is fully engaged in the bowl. I’m envisioning a clip held on with rare earth magnet, set screw or rubber lined so it doesn’t vibrate off.
 

Randy Anderson

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Karl, I've pondered the idea of some sort of way to link them but not pursued it. One of those things I don't do often enough to find a fix but sometimes wish I had when I decide to core.
 
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One thing that Glenn Lucas did was to drill and tap a hole in the support post for the finger and put in a screw (like a banjo screw used to support a tool rest). He uses it to hold one of the fingers as a tool rest for hollowing the smallest bowl segment before coring but it would also work for holding the finger in place for natural edge bowls.
 
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