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OSMO Spray PolyX Gloss

Randy Anderson

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Long ago I standardized on two finish methods for my large hollow forms - hand polished shellac and automotive polyurethane clear coat. Which one depends on the piece size, destination, expected sale value, uniqueness, etc. Both take time and lots of practice to get right. I've always felt investing in the time to learn to use the tools you have is better than always chasing the next tool, finish or gimmick that will all of a sudden make your work easier and your results better. That said, every once in a while it's worthwhile to step outside your box and try something different. Finishes is one of those topics that can be a complex and confusing rabbit hole of opinions, options, products, costs, application methods, etc.

I've decided to try OSMO's spray Polyx gloss (3082) and see how it compares to my shellac finishes. They don't make a product that will create the build depth and crystal clear look of spray polyurethane with a polyester base coat underneath but, their spray gloss could be comparable to a well polished shellac finish. I searched the forum and see lots of you use OSMO. The specific products and application methods vary a bit but I didn't find anyone using their spray product going for a high gloss finish.

Question - anyone have experience with it? I've gotten some info from OSMO (they're very responsive and helpful) but sometimes real world experience is the best. A lot of their focus is on durability and stain resistance since the target use is primarily furniture and floors. Neither of these are really critical for a display piece.
 
I tried the Osmo once, and just didn't like it. I don't think it was their newer "Poly" version though. I also tried Rubio Monokote, and like every one else that uses it, I put on 2 coats. I am now experimenting with the "LED finishes" which can cure and harden instantly with the proper UV lights. Their bigger light for wood floors is about $1700. They do have a smaller light for about $600 and an accelerator, but I haven't bought one yet. I am just putting my boxes in the window sill. That seems to work. They call it "LED" finishes because they think there is/are bad things associated with UV lights..... Ah, marketing!

This is a link to the LED finishes that started me thinking about it. Two things Of note, one is that you do raise the grain, but you don't sand it off. Two is that they use a coat of "ceramic" top coat that comes from the auto industry to protect cars. He does sell his own version, I went to a auto supply place and picked up some Griots, which is green, but that color doesn't color the wood. It may have many uses in the shop like for any cast iron.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wC5dO--NpnE&t=252s


robo hippy
 
I will be interested to see how this works, but my experience with spray Polyx is that it is a thin (maybe 1/3 of the viscosity) version of the normal Polyx. I did not assess it specifically for gloss (it was on kitchen cabinets) and I don't remember it being a glossy finish. As you say, it is a cabinetry and floor finish, where you might want some gloss but not much.

I like the normal (wipe / brush on) gloss Polyx, but it is not what I would use if I were after a glossy finish; even with some buffing, I get a gentle semi-gloss from Polyx gloss. Because the gloss is often uneven, I usually use semi-gloss or matte Polyx and accept that it will be a nice even low sheen.

I would add this thought: a considerable reason for the success of Polyx outside the flooring application for which it was originally developed is its ease of application (wipe on / wipe off) for an OK result. To me, it is OK looking but not actually great looking and it is not very spill resistant or hard wearing. If you are going to the trouble of spraying, I don't think spray Polyx will be an improvement on your automotive poly method. If you want to try spraying something different, why not try a different varnish? The best gloss finish I have seen is sprayed Epifanes gloss marine varnish.
 
Thanks for the info Gord. My expectations are not high here and fortunately I was able get a free sample can to try. Not here yet. I have two well established and understood finishing processes that meet my needs but, like I said, once in a while it's worth taking a walk on the wild side so to speak. Sometimes all it does is validate that my current solution is still right for me.
 
Robo, I've looked at some of the ceramic coatings products but haven't tried any of them yet. My friend purchased some from the youtube channel studio you listed but he hasn't tried it yet either. Not sure how easy it would be to apply to a curved surface or fix if I mess it up. Also not tried or looked at the UV cured finishes. Not sure how to manage or control that in my shop but I'll take a look at the link.
 
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