I need a simple jig to hold logs for chain saw cutting. Both cutting in half and cutting corners off for bowl blanks.
‘thanks.
‘thanks.
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Plan for chain saw cutting jig
- Thread starter Peter Kaup
- Start date
Here's a jig that may work: https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/whats-needed-to-process-a-log.20863/post-215231
A bandsaw is far superior and safer for knocking off corners.
Minnesota Woodturners came up with a good stand: https://www.mnwoodturners.com/mwa-c...cessing-center-lpc-kit-assembly-instructions/
I like to cut blanks on a pile of saw dust. You can level out blocks with just a bit of chips. The chain does not mind cutting into the pile either.
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A quick a dirty totally effective 
Shown here to cut a crotch to show the flame faces
I generally cut round on a bandsaw
If I have to cut round with a chainsaw - I draw 2 circles desired and desired +2”
Cut almost all the big circle off leave the little circle uncut
Shown here to cut a crotch to show the flame faces
I generally cut round on a bandsaw
If I have to cut round with a chainsaw - I draw 2 circles desired and desired +2”
Cut almost all the big circle off leave the little circle uncut
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
I keep meaning to build one after David Ellsworths plans, but never seem to get to it, so I use a couple half logs and a big pile of chips to hold blanks. There's no way I want to try to horse unbalanced 100 lb logs onto my bandsaw, and also no way I want all that sap, bark and dirt in the saw either. I'm strictly a chain saw guy for roughing logs to mount them on the lathe.
A. I use a stump similar to Al Hockenbery's.
B. This topic comes up every 6 months or so and you can get a great deal of information by doing a search on the forum.
B. This topic comes up every 6 months or so and you can get a great deal of information by doing a search on the forum.
I usually have several sections of end grain that I cut off the log. I will roll the log up on one of them, and slip some wedges under the round part of the log to hold it in place. I put a center line, and cut the outside bark parts off before putting them on the lathe. Unless you want to do natural edge pieces. I do have a video up about processing a log.
robo hippy
robo hippy
The problem with a wood cutting horse set up is that the log has to be lifted to the height of the horse.
By using the pile of chips, I can wheel the round to the top of the pile with my hand truck. No lifting the log.
My knees are not good, but the padding that pile of chips is sufficient to be able to kneel down.
I cut from a kneeling position most of the time. Cut corners and other trimmings will hold the log in place while I cut it.
I do not have to lift the wood until the octagon is cut. Even then, I can just roll it onto my hand truck and wheel it into the shop.
My 75 year old back does not like to lift heavy logs if possible.
By using the pile of chips, I can wheel the round to the top of the pile with my hand truck. No lifting the log.
My knees are not good, but the padding that pile of chips is sufficient to be able to kneel down.
I cut from a kneeling position most of the time. Cut corners and other trimmings will hold the log in place while I cut it.
I do not have to lift the wood until the octagon is cut. Even then, I can just roll it onto my hand truck and wheel it into the shop.
My 75 year old back does not like to lift heavy logs if possible.
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I’m with you on the hand truck.
My notched log section is near hand touch height. Easy to flip a log section on from the hand truck.
Step 2. I have a hydraulic table that is an inch lower than the hand truck. Slide the blank on the table from the hand truck.
Raise the table to level with the bandsaw table. Lock the wheels and it make a huge aixillary table.
If it is still too heavy the table rolls to the lathe and a couple lengths of 2x4 lever it to a between centers start.
A few times I have used the 2x4 to get it up in place to run a mounted faceplate onto the lathe.
I hear this a lot, but I feel like a bandsaw only has the illusion of safety. It's very safe with flat pieces of wood, but guys who put a round log or oddly shaped pieces thru (without something to hold it steady) are asking for trouble. A rough piece can seem flat and stable, but if part of that support is on the scrap side of the cut, it can change instantly. Having a blade bound or broken or a piece jerked out of your hand doesn't sound fun.
I don't lift heavy logs any more either. There was a funny video about that some where...... I can roll them around with a lot less work. Even a tiny ramp can be a big help. Bending down isn't the problem, it is standing back up again....
robo hippy
robo hippy
The human back is a weak spot in human evolution. Maybe we were not supposed to stand upright?
I use a hand truck and a hydraulic motor cycle jack to load wood into my truck. Once the wood is in the truck, I do not lift the wood until it is cut up.
I use a hand truck and a hydraulic motor cycle jack to load wood into my truck. Once the wood is in the truck, I do not lift the wood until it is cut up.
My next project, now that my grinder is set up, is my sawhorse/table.
Requirements:
Must be a bit lower than waist height. Working on the ground sux. Dirt strongly attracts chainsaws.
No metal fasteners within 6" of the work area. They strongly attract chainsaws.
Top should facilitate easy installation and replacement of sacrificial top surface. I am thinking something like ~4" round, straight logs.
It needs to be tippable. So I will tip the table onto its side, roll the log onto an extension off one end of the table, then use my body weight to easily tip it back to upright position and lift the log to waist height. The geometry is a bit more complex, but that is the functional idea.
Portability to the field would be a huge bonus.
Requirements:
Must be a bit lower than waist height. Working on the ground sux. Dirt strongly attracts chainsaws.
No metal fasteners within 6" of the work area. They strongly attract chainsaws.
Top should facilitate easy installation and replacement of sacrificial top surface. I am thinking something like ~4" round, straight logs.
It needs to be tippable. So I will tip the table onto its side, roll the log onto an extension off one end of the table, then use my body weight to easily tip it back to upright position and lift the log to waist height. The geometry is a bit more complex, but that is the functional idea.
Portability to the field would be a huge bonus.
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There is a nice 'log loader' in the Tips section, I believe originally started by Mike Peace. Several folks submitted their own examples. One of these would allow you to load your sawhorse in the manner you describe without needing the sawhorse to be 'tippable.'
I hear ya. So do asphalt and gravel.