Pore fillers?

[Charlie Harley]

What is a good product for filling pores prior to finishing? I'm working with some oak and walnut that has large pores, and I don't want to change the color or anything. I just want to leave the surface smooth to the touch and the eye.

I like using oil finishes. Is there a pore filler that's compatible?

All help is much appreciated.

 

[Jake Debski]

Charlie, being a long time flat woodworker I'm sure you know most pore or grain fillers are clay or silica based and require coloring after application. My suggestion would be, since you want to use oil, is to sand in a couple of coats of Danish Oil using 400gr wet/dry for the first coat and 600 for subsequent applications. I've had pretty good results from this method but it is not perfect. Lacquer, sprayed and sanded back, over and over, until the pores are filled has given me the best results.

 

[davidwalser]

Many use a commercial sanding sealer to do what you ask. Much of what is sold as sanding sealer is nothing more than a thinned lacquer. So, if you've a can of Deft (not the spray, but the liquid), you are set.

Sanding sealer will prevent your oil finish from penetrating, so you'll want to sand it off -- except for the deep pores on the end grain which will remain sealed (preventing that portion of the piece from soaking up too much oil).

Hope this helps.

 

[dkulze]

Like everyone says, a nice wet sanding will help alot. The oil/laquer/varnish will mix with the sanding dust and fill the pores relatively well. Let it dry, repeat, and you'll have a mirror surface before you know it.

I work with oak and ash a fair amount and have found this to be the case. Usually, though, I just keep applying coats of wipe-on eurythane oil and wiping them off till I get a good surface. Buff and wax at that point.

Dietrich

 

[GA Darling]

Charlie,
If your really wanting to use a pore filler I'd recommend a product called Wunderfil. Just follow the directions on the can. It leaves a glass smooth surface when your finished. The last time I bought it, I got it at Rockler. That's been a while. I don't know if they even carry it anymore.

GA Darling

 

[john lucas]

If you want to try something differnt try Birchwood- Casey True oil. You can get it at most gun supply shops and sometimes at Walmart. it is a high build finish used on walnut gun stocks.

You rub a layer in and let it dry overnight. Then steel wool it down until only the pores show. You do this until the pores don't show and everything is an even satin finish. Then add one or two more layers and your done. It takes about 5 ot 7 layers to fill Walnut. It's a really nice glossy finish and doesn't require filling or dyeing the fill to match the wood.

it's similar to a sprayed lacquer finish. lacquer would take 15 to 20 layers (at least the way I do it) The lacquer is clearer and slightly less yellowing but most people would not know unless you put them side by side.

 

[Griesbach]

Nice recomendation, John. I haven't used that oil in years but I think I'll try it on open pore woods sometime soon. Thanks

 

[john lucas]

Cyral It's not really an oil. I think it's Varnish and oil mixture. It's worth a try just to see if you can use it. Some will like it and some won't but it sure makes a good finish for Gunstocks. it's flexible and tough. I've finished several guns over the years and have now done some turnings to see if I like it for that.

 

[Charlie Harley]

Birchwood Casey... Now that's a name I just didn't think of but with I have a LOT of experience. Every muzzleloader and pistol grip I've ever made has their finish in some form.

Thank you all for the thoughts. I'll let you know how it turns out. If I can figure out how to post a photo, I'll even try to share the results.