Prepping wood to glue up pepper mill blanks

[Mike Novak]

I’d like to glue up some boards to make pepper mills. From what I have seen on YouTube, the normal way to prep for gluing is to run them thru a planer, jointer, or thickness sander. Some people use all three. Problem is, I don’t have any of these tools, and would not use them enough to justify buying.

So question is, what’s the best way to prep wood for gluing without these? This is wood I harvested myself and cut on bandsaw. I have a decent resaw blade so the sides aren’t terrible, but not good enough for glue up.

Any clever suggestions?

This isn’t a pepper mills, but similar idea.

 

[John K Jordan]

the normal way to prep for gluing is to run them thru a planer, jointer, or thickness sander. Some people use all three. Problem is, I don’t have any of these tools, and would not use them enough to justify buying.

Are you a member of a woodturning club? If so, maybe ask there.

I have a planer but found a thickness sander was "good enough for me." I have a Performax 22-44. I've prepared wood for glueup for myself and friends, turning blanks, cutting boards etc. If someone local in your club has one perhaps they would let you use it or prepare the resawn boards for you.

I'm no expert but I know some say a sanded surface makes a better bond with at least some types of wood and glue. The last time I did this I glued layers of walnut, bubinga, and pau marfim.

Also, a friend without equipment went several times to a local woodworking place and they did what he needed for a reasonable fee.

Also, you might look up Frank Penta in Carboro, NC and drop him an email or maybe reach him through the Chapel Hill woodturners club. He does a huge amount of slicing and laminating and should have some good ideas. If you can't reach him send me a note and I'll try calling.

BTW, when I worked at the Berea College woodcraft industries in 1960 they had an incredible sander, massive thing. It had three large dia wide drums over a conveyor feed belt with small rubber squares that gripped the wood well. The drums were coarse, medium, and fine grits. We could take a glue-up such as a chess board and it came out perfect in one pass through the sander!

JKJ

 

[R Henrickson]

You can build a thickness sander at low cost if you don't want to buy. Lots of plans are available -- when I built mine, a number of luthiers in particular had posted copious information and plans. I'm a woodworking near-incompetent but managed to build one which works well. It's not difficult. A electric motor from a furnace fan discarded at the curb, a couple pillow blocks, scrap plywood, scrap wood glued onto a steel rod and turned for the drum, and a couple other cheap items. At the time I was building 1:48 scale plank-on-frame ship models and needed to thickness wood for 'planks' and 'timbers' (1/16" to 1/4" thick). I've used it for thicker material since. I think I built it for a maximum thickness of 1 1/2". I think the most expensive item was a 3' length of Link-belt.
[see photos below]

 

[John K Jordan]

You can build a thickness sander at low cost if you don't want to buy. Lots of plans are available --

Excellent! (and interesting!) Do you have any photos?

 

[robo hippy]

Perhaps there is a community center near by that has the tools. Generally, a planer yields an okay surface for glue ups, but a drum sander is better. I guess the other option would be if you know how to use a hand plane. I am learning how to use them, but a long way from actually knowing how to use them. If done correctly, this would yield the best surface for glue ups.

I have seen people who made their lathes into drum sanders. It can be done. I also have one of the old Performax 22/44 drum sanders. I did have the motor rewired for 220 and made sure to keep the drive belt on 110. Oh, with the lathe version, you have to hand push the boards through.

robo hippy

 

[R Henrickson]

Excellent! (and interesting!) Do you have any photos?

Feed table is raised fairly high, but could go much higher (I was thicknessing to 1/16"), and it could be lowered by at least another inch at the feed end. Hinges are hidden. I made an oval 'belt enclosure' but it was removed to reduce height for storage. The axle rod is slotted.

I've also used it for making laminations for gluing up nutcracker bodies with slots for the nut-breaking crank handle. Those were 3/4" thick

 

[Will Armstrong]

For short pieces I clamp my belt sander upside-down in my vice.

 

[Darryl Fective]

Assuming your bandsaw has a fence and the cut is pretty straight, a block of wood with true face and sandpaper applied, might be all you need.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I see no one has mentioned it but I have also done it with the old fashioned (Before Electricity) way - with a nicely sharpened hand plane. Although that does take some learning itself too...

 

[Webb Willmott]

A 4” joiner can be had inexpensively and a 10th of the price of a drum sander.

Or find a friend and go visit him/her.

Facebook marketplace may also be an option.

 

[John K Jordan]

A 4” joiner can be had inexpensively and a 10th of the price of a drum sander.

I have an old 6" jointer in my storage that anyone can have for free if they come haul it off. Ok, not free, I''ll pay $10 for someone to take it.
Worked the last I used it, maybe 10 years ago. I did plug it in a few years ago and it ran. Would need some cleaning up.

JKJ

 

[Mark Jundanian]

So question is, what’s the best way to prep wood for gluing without these?

I would try a belt or disk sander, or hand sanding with a sanding block. Hand plane, with a very sharp blade. If the workpiece is small, consider holding the plane inverted in a vise.

 

[Mike Novak]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I was hoping someone had a clever way to do this without expensive machinery or special skills ( hand plane) I will try a sanding block first. If that’s not working I will phone a friend.

JKJ- that’s a great offer, but it’s quite a drive from my house to yours. Thanks!

 

[Webb Willmott]

On the cheap - Glue strips of sand paper to a flat surface. IMO better to move the wood over the sandpaper than sandpaper over the wood. Less chance of putting a curve on the surface to be glued.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, before I would go with a sanding block, I would tape or adhere some way, some abrasives to a flat surface. I do this with hand planes to get the sole flat. It could work for pepper mills. You could reach out to your club for help too. Boards seldom come flat enough for good glue up surfaces. 80 grit is fine for glue ups.

robo hippy

 

[John K Jordan]

Well, before I would go with a sanding block, I would tape or adhere some way, some abrasives to a flat surface...

I use adhesive in a spray can for that. I keep both permanent and removable on hand.

The Klingspor gold sandpaper rolls in 1" and 2" widths are perfect for this. I cut plywood to fit the paper width. These are well used, since replaced!



And a trick Harvey Meyer taught me when making Beads of Courage boxes with glued layers: Make a long sanding block from a stout board. I cut an 18" length of 2x4 2" wide and flattened both sides. Glued on maybe 60 and 100 grit paper. Before removing each layer from the lathe, hold the stick across both sides of the slowly turning wood to sand a perfect flat for glue up! Can't see a glue line, inside or out, even up close. Harvey taught 2 layers plus lid - I decided to go for three or more layers. Pre-hollowing each layer (except for a thin web for a recess) saves a LOT effort when hollowing dry wood.

The pieces and the result. This one for a special little boy. I learned to chip carve letters so I could do these.


Cherry, Walnut, and CantRememberWhat wood. Red maple?


JKJ