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Problem finishing my lacquer finish.

Grey Darrah

Grey Darrah

Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
74
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28
Location
Cartersville, GA
I've got a 12" tall ambrosia maple end grain vessel that I finished in about 10 coats of lacquer. Then to finish the finish, I wet sanded with 600/800/1000/1500/2000. I then used both rubbing and then polishing compound to bring back the shine, and it's beautiful, except for a few small areas around some little worm holes whee I ended up sanding all the lacquer off. I've posted a cropped in pic with the areas circled in red the areas that range from about a 1/4 inch (the biggest area). down to a 1/16 inch strip (I've not yet finished cleaning up the leftover polishing compound in the worm holes).

What's the best way to remedy this? Spraying a light coat or 2 and then running some polishing compound over it after a few days? I'm a bit worried the over-spray is going to mess up a larger area of an otherwise perfect finish if I do this. Has anyone ever trying spraying a bit of lacquer into a small bowl then use a tiny paint brush to quickly apply some before it dries?

Thanks for any help,
Grey

IMG_20190206_192635-01.jpeg
 
Last edited:
How long did you wait between coats of lacquer? How long before you buffed the finish? I find a lot of people don't understand the difference between dry and cured. They start the final working on the finish too quickly. I'd also suggest you used way too many products. True rubbing compound is courser than some of the grits you sanded with.
I think there is something else going on here. Nitrocellulose lacquer does not lay on the wood as multiple coats. It chemically melts into the previous coat. You can apply 20 coats, but you really only have one solid layer. What's the white product in the hole? Did it bleed into the wood cells when you put it on? I'd suggest you have a bonding problem with the filler in the holes.
 
I would have to agree with RC that is way to many products. If the worm holes were lower than the surface then you may have sanded thru the
finish trying to eliminate the dent so before continuing the polishing you could wipe down the surface with alcohol and watch for dull spots and if you find any add more coats of lacquer. I have been doing a similar finish but I only sand down to 320 with 3M flexible sheets dry between each coat until no more shiny spots are left (caused by open grain or worm holes). When I am satisfied that the surface is as smooth as I can get it I polish with pumice then rotten stone then a quality wax.
 
Richard Coers said:
How long did you wait between coats of lacquer? How long before you buffed the finish? I find a lot of people don't understand the difference betied ween dry and cured. They start the final working on the finish too quickly. I'd also suggest you used way too many products. True rubbing compound is courser than some of the grits you sanded with.
I think there is something else going on here. Nitrocellulose lacquer does not lay on the wood as multiple coats. It chemically melts into the previous coat. You can apply 20 coats, but you really only have one solid layer. What's the white product in the hole? Did it bleed into the wood cells when you put it on? I'd suggest you have a bonding problem with the filler in the holes.
Click to expand...

I applied 3 spray coats per day for a total of 9 coats, waiting a couple of days between my spraying. Then the vessel sat inside my house for about 2 months before I started sanding and buffing the finish.

As I described in my original post, the white stuff is just the polishing compound that I have not yet cleaned out.

I'm still hoping to find the best solution to the problem. If you've ever over sanded lacquer in a tiny area, how is it best fixed?

Grey
 
Your biggest problem is getting it perfectly clean while getting all the compound carriers scrubbed off. Several washings of mineral spirits should do it, but change the cloth often when scrubbing. Use a brush and mineral spirits to clean the holes. Then I'd scuff it with gray Scotchbrite and spray more finish. Next time I would back the sandpaper with a thin cork block to prevent local sand throughs.
 
I'm scrapping this and going to refinish with something else...I've also got some blushing appearing in a number of areas (I officially hate lacquer).

I'm going to start a new thread because anyone checking out this one is going to be the problem that I started with.

Thanks for the input,
Grey
 
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