Question about my finishing process

[Raif Harik]

Hi, I've been using osmo polyx-oil 3043. This week I did a batch of pieces.
Here are my questions/issues
1) I've been applying and wiping off with the white scratchless pads. When wiping off it kind of leaves streaks. The pads are not really absorbent. Is this ok given point #2 below? or should I use a cloth
2) I have the beall buffing system. This week I applied 1 coat osmo, next day 1 coat osmo next day buffed with red and white compounds.
a) I let the osmo cure for a day before buffing. One of the piece had streaks from wiping with pad and I couldn't really get them out with the buffing pads ( this piece had actually been finished with osmo once before so it's possible these marks were from the first time ). Should I not let it cure before buffing? should I let it completely cure before buffing? I kind of feel that once it cures fully it will be really hard and I wont be able to get the wiping marks out. Maybe I secretly want that to be true because it would mean that osmo is super tough, or maybe I want it not to be true so I can not worry about when to buffing. I don't know
3) I finish sanded my pieces, which were all pecan wood with 400 grit paper. After applying the finish I could see fine sanding marks when looking at the right angle. Super annoying.
a) what the hell? should I sand up to like 800 or something?
b) should I perhaps buff with red and white compound before I apply the osmo?


Thanks for your thoughts. Sorry if this is long and incomprehensible
Raif

 

[Curt Vogt]

Howdy Raif, I do not have any experience with Osmo so cannot address that. However, your sanding to 400 or higher is something I do. I have found it is very dependent on the type of wood or even the orientation of the grain if 400 is sufficient to remove visible scratches. I usually consider 400 as a minimum in my small detail style projects. Going up to 500-600 or higher and inspecting my project with my Geezer Glasses and raking light can highlight my sins where I need to go back and do a better job of sanding.
I know when I shoot for a high gloss, the sanding is best above even the 600 grit before I go to any level of buffing. Of course, if you start talking acrylics or anything like that, the sanding needs to go way higher before heading to the buffing wheel. Best of luck and I look forward to other folks response on the Osmo part.

 

[Paul Vechart]

I started using Osmo 3043 last year and have been happy with the results. I normally sand to 400 grit then use a clean room pad to wipe on the Finish. I’ll let it sit for no longer than 10 minutes and wipe it off with a soft paper towel. I never get any streaks left on the surface. I’ll let it dry for 24 hours before the second coat. I don’t do any buffing other than a hand buffing with a cotton rag. Osmo will dry in 24 hours but it will take a few weeks or longer to fully cure. I would try the paper toweling to wipe off the excess Osmo since it’s absorbent. Hope this helps.

 

[Michael Nathal]

I apply Osmo with the white Scothchbrite pads, wait 5-10 minutes, and wipe off the excess with a cotton rag. This "wiping" is relatively vigorous, almost like scrubbing. The next day I apply a second coat by the same method. I am not always convinced that the second coat is necessary, but I almost always put on the second coat. I then wait 1 week or so and Beall buff, the white diamond wheel only. If I see wiping marks on the cured finish, this means the wiping with the cotton rag was not adequate. I need to remove the wiping marks with 400 grit sandpaper prior to buffing. Is it possible the "fine sanding marks" that you refer to are really wiping marks?

Also, buffing bare wood does refine the surface in a manner similar to higher grit sandpaper and/or abrasive paste. I sometimes buff with Tripoli prior to applying the first Osmo coat. I cannot say I have done a good apples to apples comparison of the sheen achieved from Procedure A = 400 grit sanding + Osmo + buffing versus Procedure B = 400 grit sanding + buffing + Osmo + buffing. I suspect the affect is subtle.

 

[John K Jordan]

1) I've been applying and wiping off with the white scratchless pads. When wiping off it kind of leaves streaks. The pads are not really absorbent. Is this ok given point #2 below? or should I use a cloth...
...3) I finish sanded my pieces, which were all pecan wood with 400 grit paper. After applying the finish I could see fine sanding marks when looking at the right angle. Super annoying.

Never used Osmo but very often use some form of "danish" oil, Watco, similar, or home-made (usually BLO, poly, mineral spirits)

I never apply finish until all scratches are gone. How do you find them? I apply naphtha with a small piece of paper towel. This evaporates quickly and leaves no residue. The liquid drys last in any scratches making them darker and more visible. Good lighting is important - high overhead diffuse lighting is the worst, best is small diameter lights on adjustable stands that can be positioned so the light is at a glancing angle. I apply naphtha, let partially dry, then rotate the piece under the glancing light. I fix any scratches before before going to a finer grit and certainly before applying finish,

I never sand with rotating disks on a drill - instead I sand by hand. For bowls and platters I first smooth with hand scraers which give an incredibly smooth surface with very little sanding - but that's another topic.)

For every grit, I sand, by hand than sand perpendicular to the last sanding - I figure if I can't get out the scratches, say from 220 paper with one grint, it will be difficult or impossible to get them out with the next finer grit. I usually sand to 400 or 600. I often back my sandpaper with a white "magic rub" eraser, a "soft sanding block".

For applying "danish" oil, I

• Add as much with a piece of paper towel as the wood will absorb.
• Wait 30 minutes and wipe it all off.
• Let the oil dry over night.
• Repeat the next day and following days.
• I sometimes wet sand with oil and very fine sandpaper between coats. Sometimes with 0000 steel wool.

I usually use from 3-10 coats depending. This will built up an extremely thin and durable layer. If I want a glossy buffed surface let it dry for another week then buff. I rarely want a glossy surface but prefer a soft sheen.)

This method is not recommended for those in a rush!

JKJ

 

[Darryl Fective]

I guess I don't understand the application of a finish with abrasive pads. If you want to raise the grain, do it with water, alcohol, etc. before applying the finish. I've had pretty decent results just sanding my pieces, then applying Osmo with a disposable chip brush or rag. I wait about 10 or 15 minutes, apply more, wait more, then then wipe away the excess. I do a repeat coat a day or 2 later, then a light buffing a few days later when they don't feel slimy anymore.