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Recognize this Tool?

Yep, best shear scraper out there. And if you get one buy his sharpening tool to raise the burr. I tried all sorts of methods to raise the burr, all more or less successful but his ceramic hone works much better.
 
Hmm, never thought about using a ceramic hone to raise a burr.... Now, if I can just find that old one I have around the house some where...... I have seen that shear scraper before. Should work fine for the outside of a bowl, but needs a ) nose on the other end for inside of bowls... What is the metal, any one know? M2? M42?

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
Hmm, never thought about using a ceramic hone to raise a burr.... Now, if I can just find that old one I have around the house some where...... I have seen that shear scraper before. Should work fine for the outside of a bowl, but needs a ) nose on the other end for inside of bowls... What is the metal, any one know? M2? M42?

robo hippy
Click to expand...
These are used on the outside of a form.

While the scraper can be used on bowls it’s main use is for hollowforms.
Typical hollow forms have a high spot flanked by curves to the rim and the foot.
One end of the scraper works on the right side the other on the left side.

on bowls you would chose a side depending on whether the rim face the head sock or the tailstock

a long time ago John had two tools. Then he made the single double ended tool and the handle.
 
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It's a thick piece of steel and I'm sure I've asked john what it is but dont remember. It holds the burr well.
 
While I don't do many hollow forms, I do shear scrape just about every thing. A round nose scraper can go either right or left, so no need to reverse the cutter. I consider a round nose one safer as well. Mostly you keep your handle dropped, which means you can only work on the lower side of the cutter, and can't get up on the tip, which will roll on you, just like a skew will.

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
While I don't do many hollow forms, I do shear scrape just about every thing. A round nose scraper can go either right or left, so no need to reverse the cutter. I consider a round nose one safer as well. Mostly you keep your handle dropped, which means you can only work on the lower side of the cutter, and can't get up on the tip, which will roll on you, just like a skew will.

robo hippy
Click to expand...
On the outside the square scrapers and angled scrapers are much better at fairing slight imperfections in the curve.
They also present a a high shear angle and can work nicely into a square corner.

I like the Al Stirt scraper which is square end scraper ground with a 3/16 square end in the right side then ground with a slight radius to the left side..
 
robo hippy said:
While I don't do many hollow forms, I do shear scrape just about every thing. A round nose scraper can go either right or left, so no need to reverse the cutter. I consider a round nose one safer as well. Mostly you keep your handle dropped, which means you can only work on the lower side of the cutter, and can't get up on the tip, which will roll on you, just like a skew will.

robo hippy
Click to expand...

Not true-the tool is pulled along, so the edge is being pushed away from the wood so there is no danger of it rolling. It is intended to be used from tip to lower tip so the FLAT edge provides a leveling effect as well as a shearing(smoothing ) cut. But, yes, any scraper can be used in a shearing mode, but they are not all the same. This is intended for outside of vessels, or bowls.

John
 
For outside shear scraping on bowls, I have a modified version of the Richard Raffen spear point tool. I think Mike Mahoney has one now. I grind the nose of mine square. Say what you will about being able to go up to the point on a shear scrape, but I will not do that, which is why I have the spear point. I have felt the tool trying to dig in. Don't understand the 'edge is being pushed away from the wood'. The tool edge is being pushed down towards the tool rest. Maybe I just do things differently.... I have found scrapers to be better at shear scraping than gouges. I might concede that a swept back grind gouge works fine for shear scraping due to the more acute angle on the wing, but I don't use them at all any more.

robo hippy
 
Every cutting tool has a sweet spot (cutting angle) that produces fine shavings during shear cutting. Rotating the blade and raising or lowering the tool handle presents a large window of geometry to get it right. Move the tool in the wrong direction and you get a catch and create a cut in the work piece depending on the tool you are using. Jordans shear tool is very easy to use and you have to go out of your way to create a catch with that design.
 
John Jordan said:
Just because one doesn't understand, doesn't mean it isn't so.

Here's a video if someone wants to see how it works.:) https://www.instagram.com/p/BvFLdKygVAR/

John
Click to expand...

Well, I am glad y'all cleared up the mystery for me. It is a fine tool and the guy I showed it to now knows where to get it.
I suppose you'd have to charge more for it if your name was laser engraved on it.
 
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