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Record Power Coronet Herald needs Drill Chuck

T

Thomas Wentzel

Joined
Feb 1, 2021
Messages
13
Likes
18
Location
Lititz, PA
Greetings, all, relatively new turner, just upgraded from my WEN mini with a Record Power midi. Now trying to get all the necessary 'add-ons' to get turning again .. my Nova chuck for the WEN doesn't fit the new lathe .. different spindle thread size. So I got a new Record chuck, which is actually compatible with the Nova parts.

I wanted to turn a tool handle this week and realized that I need a new drill chuck for the tail to drill out the tool hole. I ordered a Nova 1/2" drill chuck, but when I tried to attach it, I find that the chuck shaft is too long (3"). The chuck won't go in all the way to seat the #2 MT.

Edited to add: I can fit the chuck if I turn the tailstock in an inch or so, then it fits, but then I lose that much space. Is that just the way it is?

Anyone out there with a Record Power Coronet Herald that can point me to a drill chuck for this lathe? Or, is there something I'm missing in attaching the chuck into the tail?
Thank-you,
Tom
 
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Thomas Wentzel said:
Edited to add: I can fit the chuck if I turn the tailstock in an inch or so, then it fits, but then I lose that much space. Is that just the way it is?

Anyone out there with a Record Power Coronet Herald that can point me to a drill chuck for this lathe? Or, is there something I'm missing in attaching the chuck into the tail?
Thank-you,
Tom
Click to expand...
My drill chuck has a long MT2 taper. I have to turn the tailstock out about an inch to get fully seated. So far, the loss of horizontal space has never been an issue when drilling. Lathe bed is long enough that I can move the tailstock back as far as needed. Your midi lathe may not have as much room.
 
David Martin said:
That's so you can remove the chuck by backing the tailstock ram all the way in. Not all lathes have a through hole in the tailstock. You could shorten the chuck arbor and it wouldn't hurt anything, you'd just have to remove the chuck with the knock out bar.
Click to expand...
If the tail stock is a self ejecting design, then they generally do not have a through hole for a knock out bar. So check before you shorten the Morse Taper.
 
Another question about my Record Power Herald midi lathe. I like the lathe overall. Only two little nitpicks:
1. It takes 5 seconds or so to reverse to kick in .. not a big deal, but wouldn't mind the time being shorter
2. It takes about 10 seconds to stop spinning after I hit off, again, wish it were quicker. However, I found that if I hit the red 'panic' button, it stops almost immediately. Question: Does using this button to stop the lathe cause the motor any harm?
thx..Tom
 
If you have a drill press, you don't need the drill chuck, as long as the table on the drill press will drop down low enough. Main thing is for the hole to be drilled close to center, then a cone shaped live center will line things up for turning your handle round. You could also eyeball it, which may or may not work well. You could also drill a blank that would go on top of the handle blank. About 1 inch deep hole and some thing to overlap the handle blank will get it pretty close. There are also set ups for hand drills.

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
You could also drill a blank that would go on top of the handle blank. About 1 inch deep hole and some thing to overlap the handle blank will get it pretty close.
Click to expand...
Having a short lathe and only a benchtop drill press, I've been looking to do this for making tool handles. By drilling first and square I'll be able to take advantage of the maximum distance between centers for these handles. Making sure to drill square is more important than dead on center, although you'll want to be close.

Gregory
 
Thomas Wentzel said:
Another question about my Record Power Herald midi lathe. I like the lathe overall. Only two little nitpicks:
1. It takes 5 seconds or so to reverse to kick in .. not a big deal, but wouldn't mind the time being shorter
2. It takes about 10 seconds to stop spinning after I hit off, again, wish it were quicker. However, I found that if I hit the red 'panic' button, it stops almost immediately. Question: Does using this button to stop the lathe cause the motor any harm?
thx..Tom
Click to expand...
The ramping delays are caused by the variable frequency drive programming. Smooth starts, stops and reversing are easy on the motor. Slow braking can prevent your chucks and faceplates from coming loose rather than coming to a sudden halt and unscrewing. My lathe has a short and a long deceleration mode for lighter and heavier work, and a braking resistor to absorb the heat of slowing a large blank. You may be able to reprogram the vfd more to your liking- call a tech at Record Power.

Hitting the e-stop typically cuts power to the vfd, so braking is no longer in play. A heavy blank will probably spin longer than normal. There's no damage to the freewheeling motor. On most lathes it takes a bit of time for the vfd to reset afterward.
 
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Kevin Jenness said:
The ramping delays are caused by the variable frequency drive programming. Smooth starts, stops and reversing are easy on the motor. Slow braking can prevent your chucks and faceplates from coming loose rather than coming to a sudden halt and unscrewing. My lathe has a short and a long deceleration mode for lighter and heavier work, and a braking resistor to absorb the heat of slowing a large blank. You may be able to reprogram the vfd more to your liking- call a tech at Record Power.

Hitting the e-stop typically cuts power to the vfd, so braking is no longer in play. A heavy blank will probably spin longer than normal. There's no damage to the freewheeling motor. On most lathes it takes a bit of time for the vfd to reset afterward.
Click to expand...
Thanks Kevin!
Tom
 
Kevin Jenness said:
The ramping delays are caused by the variable frequency drive programming. Smooth starts, stops and reversing are easy on the motor. Slow braking can prevent your chucks and faceplates from coming loose rather than coming to a sudden halt and unscrewing. My lathe has a short and a long deceleration mode for lighter and heavier work, and a braking resistor to absorb the heat of slowing a large blank. You may be able to reprogram the vfd more to your liking- call a tech at Record Power.

Hitting the e-stop typically cuts power to the vfd, so braking is no longer in play. A heavy blank will probably spin longer than normal. There's no damage to the freewheeling motor. On most lathes it takes a bit of time for the vfd to reset afterward.
Click to expand...
The smaller Record Powers don’t have a VFD, they are run off a control board. The 18” Regency has a VFD.
 
Rusty Nesmith said:
The smaller Record Powers don’t have a VFD, they are run off a control board. The 18” Regency has a VFD.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I stand corrected. To my mind a machine with re-programmable and easily replaced controls is a bettter (though no doubt larger) investment than one with proprietary and eventually obsolete and hard to replace circuit boards.
 
In the days before VFDs, the outbound handwheel was the brake. Gently grab the handwheel so it slips in your hand, and slow down the spinning. With VFD being the brake, the handwheel trick may not be effective, it may conflict with the braking programming of the VFD.
 
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