Reshaping a skew

[Todd Acker]

I am new to woodturning and bought the Benjamin’s best turning set. It has a 1 inch skew that is straight across. As I watch woodturning YouTube videos, I see a lot of people with skews that are more curved at the end. To me, they look easier to use as they would have less tendency to catch. Does anyone have any videos or advice on how to reshape the skew I have?
Thanks
Todd

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Check out www.turnawoodbowl.com. Kent Weakly has lots of stuff along this line. I highly recommend his tool sharpening course ($80 or so, I can't recall). He shows you how to create different bowl gouge profiles. He doesn't have a lot on skews, though, so if that's your primary interest, I wouldn't spend the money on the course.

 

[Rick Moreton]

Alan Lacer's website had it before but either there's a broken image link on the page or an issue on my side. I did find this site with some more exact measurements here. I converted one of my cheap harbor freight skews to this grind and I like it much better. It takes time, just make sure it isn't overheating.

 

[RichColvin]

Here’s what I’ve collected: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-SkewLacer.html

 

[robo hippy]

If you watch Tomasliv, or how ever he spells it, he uses a skew with a slight sweep to it. If you watch Woodturner 21, he was traditionally trained and uses a straight across grind. I use the slightly swept back ones, and I was trying some things with the straight across one and it did not flow well shall we say.... I was watching a Stuart Batty demo, and he was using a straight across grind. He had a small spindle on, and said to never start on the end of the spindle because it would always catch. So, I had not had problems with it after figuring out you set your skew angle before you make the cut and went home and tried it. No problems. I thought maybe it was the straight across grind, so I tried that grind, and again no problems. Maybe I should offer to teach Stuart that cut....

Oh, for sharpening, I do use a platform. I would do it a little at a time. For the skew, always work on the lower 1/2 to 1/3 of the cutting edge. He has a very good video on using it.

This guy, I think he has some excellent videos up: https://www.youtube.com/@tomislavtomasicwoodturning

robo hippy

 

[Bill Alston]

Is this of any help?

View: https://youtu.be/HGhAP9whYIY?si=I_LpjAp6upp_-j_r

 

[Todd Acker]

If you watch Tomasliv, or how ever he spells it, he uses a skew with a slight sweep to it. If you watch Woodturner 21, he was traditionally trained and uses a straight across grind. I use the slightly swept back ones, and I was trying some things with the straight across one and it did not flow well shall we say.... I was watching a Stuart Batty demo, and he was using a straight across grind. He had a small spindle on, and said to never start on the end of the spindle because it would always catch. So, I had not had problems with it after figuring out you set your skew angle before you make the cut and went home and tried it. No problems. I thought maybe it was the straight across grind, so I tried that grind, and again no problems. Maybe I should offer to teach Stuart that cut....

Oh, for sharpening, I do use a platform. I would do it a little at a time. For the skew, always work on the lower 1/2 to 1/3 of the cutting edge. He has a very good video on using it.

This guy, I think he has some excellent videos up: https://www.youtube.com/@tomislavtomasicwoodturning

robo hippy

Thanks. The video link you shared is helpful. Seems as simple as grind the nose to shape, then put the bevel on it to match another skew.

 

[Todd Acker]

Is this of any help?

View: https://youtu.be/HGhAP9whYIY?si=I_LpjAp6upp_-j_r

Thanks. This helps once I get it shaped properly. Meaning once I convert it from a straight skew to a swept one.

 

[Dean Center]

It might help to draw the curved edge onto the existing tool, to give you some idea where you want to end up. It's not hard to get the curved shape. The only tricky part is maintaining the desired angle. From long point to short point, it's roughly the same as on the straight skew.

 

[Mike Novak]

Here’s what I’ve collected: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-SkewLacer.html

This is my go to for anything related to sharpening

 

[Adrian Wilson]

Alan Lacer's website had it before but either there's a broken image link on the page or an issue on my side. I did find this site with some more exact measurements here. I converted one of my cheap harbor freight skews to this grind and I like it much better. It takes time, just make sure it isn't overheating.

I am reading Lacer's 'Woodturning Projects & Techniques', and I think it would be a good book for any new turner to read. Lots in there about tools and sharpening. Several chapters on the skew. One thing to think about for someone thinking to modify a skew is Lacer's shape has a straight bit that then turns into a curved skew. I am interested in that, but not much inclined to change my main skew from straight to curved. For spindleturning (my main thing) I personally think a straight skew works best, but everyone is going to have a different thought on that.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I use this shape and it works well for me

 

[Mike Darlow]

A skew has three cutting zones: long point, short point, and between. The long point's main role is V-cutting prior to bead rolling. The smaller the long-point angle the more aggressive the V-cutting. A 90 degree long-point angle makes V-cutting too slow, hence use in the 60 to 70 degree range. The short point's main role is rolling beads. The larger the short-point angle the more aggressive the cut, and the more tearout you'll get early in a rolling cut. Again between 60 and 70 degrees is the optimum. A straight cutting edge is quicker to hone, and after grinding and honing the sharpening angle should be about 25 degrees: any coarser and you have to exert greater effort. This is discussed at length in my book Sharpening Woodturning Tools.

I've yet to see any evidence that a curved skew catches less than one with a straight cutting edge.

 

[Dean Center]

I've yet to see any evidence that a curved skew catches less than one with a straight cutting edge.

I have no data to support my opinion, Mike, but IMHE, the curved edge is easier and safer for a novice to use. I believe this is because the slight curve puts a little less of the edge against the wood in a given position, and maybe makes it a little more forgiving. This may increase user confidence and encourage novices to continue using, until they reach a skilled level.

My experience doesn't suggest that it catches less, but the two main reasons for skew catches shouldn't really be different in straight vs. curved, which is maybe the basis for your comment.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSGu0kTdlds&pp=ygUQVG9taXNsYXYgVG9tYXNpYw%3D%3D

 

[Robert Santore]

I started with a Lacer-style skew, but I'm not sure I agree with the premise that curved profiles are easier to use. I think the principles are the same regardless.

If you still want to reshape I have come to appreciate my bench beltsander as the best tool (in my shop) for shaping and then finishing up on the grinder wheel.