Ripples

[John Walls]

Been doing mostly boxes and bowls. Started of late making my own gouge handles, ie spindles. Been also slowly and very gently.... trying to get the hang of a skew. Problem... ripples. All 4 problem handles I've made, run around 14" long with 1.5-2" each end for waste. When I get to where I'm turning down the middle to appx 1 1/4" diameter, I can't figure out why it's lightly vibrating. Just enough vibration I am getting ripples down the handle as I cut. Am I putting too much pressure or not enough on the tail-stock end? I'm making sure the skew is sharp as a razor, I've ground it to 45 degrees. I've seen the videos where folks will hold their hand on the opposite side to steady the wood, I've tried it a couple times but makes me too nervous, one hand on skew, other over the spindle while holding thumb also on the skew to steady it. One opps and I'd forever have trouble pulling in the clutch on my motobike.... that's not going to happen.... LOL So far when finishing, I can sand the ripples out, well, 75% of them. My skew is 1 1/4", I'm thinking it's too big also for this small diameter work?

I've made a couple 10" handles and no vibrations so I know (think?) it has to do with the longer length. These shorter ones don't vibrate on me.

I'm open to suggestions!

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I’m sure more experienced hands will have good advice but when I’ve had the same problem, I take a slower, less aggressive cut. Instead of having the edge approach the work at 45°, tilt the tool so that you’re coming in at a steeper angle.

 

[john lucas]

2 things most likely. Too much pressure on the tailstock. Too much pressure on the bevel of the skew. You should be able to counter act the pressure of the skew with your fingers. If your fingers are burning it means you are pushing too hard with the skew. Try to be as light as possible.

 

[Brian Gustin]

What John said, that and I also get ripples when I don't quite have it floating the bevel - it wants to dig in just a tad and then bevel floats it off as I make minute movements - I still have difficulty keeping things on a perfectly straight cut (as I try to lean body to move the cut, I also tend to twist a little which lifts bevel off slightly.. I can't seem to get a smooth "slide" in my movements, my torso keeps wanting to twist to my left as I try to slide left...) I'm thinking to try and make myself a "jig" to fit over the tool rest that holds the angle and maybe eliminate the twisting..

 

[Dean Center]

And, No, your skew isn't too big. However, some folks, maybe especially Floridians named Al, prefer smaller skews and with one you MIGHT put less pressure on the wood with the bevel. A radiused skew may also work better, if you're currently using a straight skew, as the curved edge tends to put a little less edge into the wood. Most likely John has your answer--that's a long relatively thin spindle and too much pressure in either place is pretty typical problem.

 

[hockenbery]

What John said. For tool handles I would use a 1” or 1.25” skew.

For finials I like my homemade 1/4” round skew and a 1/2” skew.

 

[john lucas]

A radius skew wont help. IRS all about practice. I do find it easier to "float" the skew with a more acute edge. 25 to 35 degrees is easier than 45 degrees. Watch my video on skew varieties where I tried all the different grinds. On youtube type in john60lucas/skew varieties

 

[R Henrickson]

Lots of good advice. I do a lot of spindle work, some fairly long and skinny (1x1x17). You didn't say how you are mounting the spindle. Holding one end in a chuck can help reduce vibration.

 

[John Walls]

Thanks y'all! Sounds like I need to practice alot with it, learn to float the bevel better and back off the pressure. I've not been mounting it in the chuck, I'll approach that too. The reason I went with 45 degrees is I read somewhere that is a better angle to learn the skew with. I'll change that next time I sharpen it on the wheel, I've been mostly hitting it with a diamond card to maintain a sharp edge. I'll watch your video John, ty!

 

[robo hippy]

"The bevel should rub the wood, but the wood shouldn't know it." Best advice I ever heard by some unknown skew master. Also most difficult skill to master with any bevel rubbing cut. Watch Ashley Harwood turn one of her finials if you get a chance. There is a ratio of 10 to 1 for spindles, which means 1 inch diameter and you can turn 10 inches long without vibration issues. Of course, if you have too much bevel pressure and too much tailstock pressure, this can change. I do prefer to have a chuck mount rather than between centers.

As for your skew, it is the size that I prefer. You said you sharpened to 45 degrees, is that a 45/45? To me, that is rather blunt. Mine are in the 30/30 range. By razor sharp, what is your final grit? I generally take mine to the 600 grit CBN wheel, and always to a leather strop after to remove the burr. Even a 1000 grit wheel or card will leave a burr and that needs to be removed. I bought my Tormek out of retirement when I started to learn how to really use the skew. I have found that I can get a 220 grit surface with peeling cuts, most of the time. They do work better for straight cylinders. Slight coves can be done with a peeling cut. I do prefer a straight cylinder for my tool handles, and like larger diameters because they fit into my paws better than smaller ones. If you ever get the chance, make sure to catch Eric Loffstrom.

robo hippy

 

[Tom Gall]

As others have already said - probably too much pressure on the bevel. Once a rippled cut starts the riding bevel will continue to multiply and produce more ripples. Look on the bright side - think of it as a decorative element to your handle and it might even give you a better grip! I sometimes have added a texture to handles for a better grip or feel ..... especially as I get older.

 

[john lucas]

Once I get ripples started I change the angle of the skew edge so my next pass takes off the tops of the previous ripple. To clarify Reeds post on the sharpening angle I use the term included angle. By that I mean the angle measured from bevel to bevel. So when I say 25 degrees that's a very acute edge.

 

[Bob Sheppard]

Something else to try- change the speed you're turning at. You may need to go faster, which seems counter intuitive, but can work.
And like others have said, don't crank down too hard on the tailstock. If you can learn to curl your fingers around the rest to support the spindle, that helps a lot too.