I have a 3/4” roughing gouge. It’s fine for roughing up to 2or3” but sometimes feels a bit light for bigger lumps. The next size up seems to be 1 1/4”. Might that be better for the bigger lumps? Thanks.
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Roughing Gouge
- Thread starter Michael Beswick
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1 1/4 goes well with a 3/4.
If you are good at keeping the bevel on - a large continental style gouge is a great roughing tool on larger spindles
1 or 1 1/4 or 30 mm
If you are prone to catches you will find the continental impossible to use.
If you are good at keeping the bevel on - a large continental style gouge is a great roughing tool on larger spindles
1 or 1 1/4 or 30 mm
If you are prone to catches you will find the continental impossible to use.
Thanks. By “continental “ do you mean the grind on a bowl gouge or is there a continental roughing gouge
- Joined
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- Lakeland, Florida
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- www.hockenberywoodturning.com
I mean the continental spindle gouge
It is a gouge forged from a flat bar. Difficult to use without a solid schooling in the fundamentals.
Shallow flute in the proper hand it roughs like a dream.
Thanks for your help. I've got quite proficient with a 10mm spindle gouge: less sure about 30mm! Though I can see there's not too much difference between it and a big roughing gouge though I suspect it requires better control!
Difficult for me to tell flute shape in the gouge above. The Continental style have a ) shaped flute. The traditional SRG is closer to half round shape. The old bodgers, green spindle turners used to prefer the continental type gouge for their work. Hmm, spell check doesn't know what a bodger is........
robo hippy
robo hippy
I’ve seen the Sorby Roughing gouge at uk 84 which put me off a bit! But Hamlet who I think are linked to Henry Taylor have a more modest priced one. I’ll have a look on eBay but either they are included in a load of tut or only 1” wide (so far- I’m in no rush as it’s 47* in the garden/ shed/ workshop- unheard of for the UK!)
I use a continental spindle gouge for my spindle roughing. Don't even have a *roughing* gouge. I don't have problems with this gouge on any wood I've spun, I just take my time to get the knots or protruding wood worked down even to the rest of the wood. After I got used to using this gouge, I can turn it down pretty fast but depending on the wood, I will make sure the edge is sharp. I did change the wings a little but I'm not sure it was for the best. I'm slowly returning back to original shape each time I sharpen.