Just because it can be done doesn't really make it a good idea. The knock against using the SRG on a bowl is primarily aimed at new folks using the gouge to remove in inner section. You can use any tool you own on the outer section. New turners need to learn safety and common practice before you start bending the rules...
What rules? Consider the facts, don't make up rules. Though it appears some would rather idolize than analyze, I don't believe most are that star-struck. They will easily determine that the gouge on the right is better supported than the one on the left. No load or low load is less fatigue any way you slice it. A LOT less than stuffing the tool into the rotation as apparently many do. Further, it gives better control, which means greater SAFETY. The gouge on the left can be used inside or out as you see it. The other has all kinds of problems maintaining that presentation around the ways and the rest.
I understand the concept of time as money, but unless I am in direct pursuit of same, I rarely rough more than a half-dozen pieces between other events in my day. Saves time to be a (grand)father to my (grand)kids and a husband to my wife. I also like to keep a lot of fluid flowing through my gravelly kidneys. With the toilet upstairs ... well, it's no strain to work at my schedule, and that's the way I like it. I rarely turn/finish more than four or five dry ones in a day unless I'm against a deadline where being on time is a promise fulfilled. Then there's summer gardening, carving ....
I don't care much for the pull cut on the outside. I find it much easier to lean forward with straight forearms and let the additional bulk added through the years do the work than try to bend my elbows and pull them toward my body. Not to mention that it means I would have to leave room in my small shop to stand somewhere else besides facing into the turning, safely out of the throw zone. I even keep the power switch near the tailstock. Hollowing inside, with a plunge and roll, pull works fine. I like to keep the top flute positioned to throw the shaving sideways or down, rather than in my face.
Not that I can't cut with other gouges, I've just settled on a better way. It's the way I teach, because it's safer and easier than alternatives I've seen. I am not sure where the 1/8" inch shaving reference comes from, DB. Do you mean thickness? Surely you can't have looked at the videos, where, as always, the degree of tilt and percentage of shear can remove shavings pretty much as broad as you mention. Nice thing is, with a good shear, there's not much ridging!
Second shot is from dry maple. I'm sure experts like you gentlemen will recognize that the form of the shaving is very conducive to a good surface. The shaving feathers out of the cut, even though the sharpness angle is relatively high, as shown by the secondary tearing in the belly. I can do excelsior, too, but unless it's a really rapid rate of curvature, it's not really necessary to prepare for three and out sanding.