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Turning of the Week -- September 26,2021
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I would try using a Scotch Brite pad and perhaps follow that with 600 grit silicon carbide paper to smooth out any rough areas. Finally, to protect the iron from rust and improve smoothness, I would use Johnson's Paste Wax. I would be hesitant to use any chemical rust removers because they leave their own stain and can etch the surface.
Scotch brite pads with an application of Evapo-rust. Evapo-rust doesn't leave any residue, doesn't damage the surface and can be wiped up with water. Best rust remover I've ever found. Then hit it with the 600 grit and apply any rust preventative. I use an application of WD-40 about once a week normally. If I'm turning green wood I spray it and wipe it down before and after I turn.
I had some discoloration that would probably be classed as rust. I hit the bed lightly with 400 wet/dry sand paper. It removed the rust and smoothed out the marks from the Blanchard grinder. I then applied a very thin coating of Ballisticol. I then wiped off the Ballisticol. Left a smooth bed. Did this to the banjo and the tailstock! Have to be careful. Slide the tailstock too hard and it will wind up on the floor.
Your situation will be much different. Did you lube it before you put it in storage?
Saw a guy take out a brand new shotgun that had been kept in a synthetic lamb's wool case. Looked like it had measles.
Raif there are products in 2 categories that I would look at: 1. corrosion preventers such as Corrosion-X. It is fantastic. I watched/ and learned about it when I was observing a group of guys racing radio controlled boats. When they would have one flip - and even go under water...they would fish it out from a canoe, shake it and spry the electronics and motor with Corrosion-X - and fire it up again. I asked them about rust - and they showed me the can, and said they had never had any rust after using that stuff.
2. Products like Glide Coat. These are made for spraying on the tables, beds and ways of all our shop tools, and form a film that is really slick, but not oily or greasy.
Either - or both may work for you.
For cleaning rust/stains, most any thin oil or mineral spirits, with steel wool or scotchbrite - just keep rubbing, it will come off. I usually use the gray superfine scotchbrite. As for rust prevention when turning green wood - I’ve tried all kinds of products, and good ole paste wax works as good as the expensive stuff. Best to try to keep the damp shavings off the bed but I’m never totally successful.
When I had my PM, I turned green wood exclusively. When I sold it, the lathe bed was about the color of black walnut. If I got rust spots, then I would hit it with the grey synthetic steel wool pads. The bed seemed to get plenty of oil from when I was sanding and oiling bowls. I think I used Glide Coat on it some times. If it gets bright orange and deep rust, then you do need elbow grease and some oil.