Rust!!!

[turner23]

I roughed a 17" piece of ambrosia maple the other day, very wet, and when I was finished I could already see the bed had some light surface rust from the moisture. Besides covering the bed with a towel, anybody know of an effective way to prevent rust from forming on the bed when turning green wood? What's the best method to remove rust once formed? Are there effective chemicals or should I take my sander to it?

Thanks in advance! All help is greatly appreciated!!!

 

[Charlie Knighton]

rust

i only turn 1 or two days a week, after i am through for the week, i use wd40 on cloth and wipe down ways, rest, elbow tool, etc when i really want to coat everything i use a very light coat of renaissance wax

 

[MichaelMouse]

I'm a WD 40 type myself. Not that rust hurts anything, unless you let it get out of hand. The oil and 400 wet/dry over a block clean it up well.

When you're putting up your sling/spatter shields you can put some doublestick and plastic over the ways, if you care to. I found it more trouble than it's worth. Seems to end up right where I want to slide the rest.

 

[Michael Kuehl]

I've tried the chemical cleaners, but I haven't found them to be any more effective, or quicker, than sanding with 120 grit on a random orbital sander. After I sand, I wipe it down and apply paste wax.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Rust?

In the words of John Jordan . . . Ignore it.

First thing he tells people who buy Stubbys from him is to get'em dirty. A little rust on the ways won't hurt a thing, and will actually help the banjo and tailstock clamp tighter. This is a lathe, not a table saw. We've been conditioned to attack the least little spec of rust on our saws, jointers, and other woodworking machines' working surfaces. Lathe beds ain't in that catagory.

By all means, DON'T put wax on them. Just as it makes the banjo slide easier, so too it reduces the friction that you depend on to make your tailstock stay where you set it.

You want to worry about rust and dirt on a lathe part? Take special and proper care of your morse tapers and the stuff you put in there like centers and spurs. THOSE surfaces you need as perfect as possible.

 

[Odie]

I keep a coffee can with an oil soaked rag near the lathe accessories. After I rough turn a wet bowl, I grab the rag and give the bedways a swipe.

Quick, simple, and does the job!

The rag I've got out there right now is pretty nasty looking......probably been in the coffee can for a year, or more......but, I keep squirting some oil on it from time to time......and it still works like a charm!

otis of cologne.

 

[Al Neighbors]

Removing Rust

If I get even a slight amount of rust on my ways, the tailstock and toolrest stick, and moving them is a pain in the posterior. I'm talking just a very little bit of rust will hang 'em up.
When the ways begin to get gunked up, I wipe it down with a paper towel dampened in Lacquer Thinner. That'll normally remove anything I've made a mess with. Then, if necessary, I use a flat piece of birch plywood and a sheet of 400 grit wet or dry to knock down what the lacquer thinner doesn't get, and re-wipe with the dampened cloth to get the grit off.
They look almost new. And work like it, too.

 

[Mark Mandell]

I keep a coffee can with an oil soaked rag near the lathe accessories. After I rough turn a wet bowl, I grab the rag and give the bedways a swipe.

Quick, simple, and does the job!

The rag I've got out there right now is pretty nasty looking......probably been in the coffee can for a year, or more......but, I keep squirting some oil on it from time to time......and it still works like a charm!

otis of cologne.

Hey, Odie,

Don't be too surprised if your rag bursts into flame one of these nights when you're not in the shop. What you've described is the classic scenario for spontaneous combustion. Please keep that can well away from anything that will spread the fire when it starts.

Better yet, drop the habit.

 

[Odie]

Hey, Odie,

Don't be too surprised if your rag bursts into flame one of these nights when you're not in the shop. What you've described is the classic scenario for spontaneous combustion. Please keep that can well away from anything that will spread the fire when it starts.

Better yet, drop the habit.

Hmmmmmmmmm.......hadn't thought of that Mark....

Perhaps you are right.

I suppose I could just squrit some oil on the ways after roughing wet bowls.....and spread it on with a paper towel.....then throw it away. That ought to work too.

Thanks

otis of cologne

 

[Mark Mandell]

Actually, if you'd like to "prevent" rust, wipe/scrape off your ways and then wipe on some phosphoric acid with a paper towel. It converts any iron oxide to iron phosphate that resists further rusting. You can buy it in most any paint store under names like "rust-b-gone" or "Rust Killer" etc. Naval Jelly is the same thing in gel form.

 

[Odie]

Actually, if you'd like to "prevent" rust, wipe/scrape off your ways and then wipe on some phosphoric acid with a paper towel. It converts any iron oxide to iron phosphate that resists further rusting. You can buy it in most any paint store under names like "rust-b-gone" or "Rust Killer" etc. Naval Jelly is the same thing in gel form.

Howdy again, Mark.....

Been using a little oil coming on three decades, and it works for me......I think I'll just do what habit dictates.

My lathe has long since lost that new look anyway.

thanx

otis of cologne

 

[KEW]

For cleaning surface rust off of cast iron surfaces, I like to use WD40 with scotch bright on a orbital or detail sander. It can get a little messy as the rusty oil is thrown around a bit, but it does do a good job of cleaning the surface.

 

[john lucas]

When I know I'm turning wood that will rust my lathe I wipe it down just before I start with WD-40 and then periodically through the day. Then when I'm done I go over everything, tailstock quill and all with WD-40. Can't help it I just like a clean lathe.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Howdy again, Mark.....

Been using a little oil coming on three decades, and it works for me......I think I'll just do what habit dictates.

My lathe has long since lost that new look anyway.

thanx

otis of cologne

Morning Odie,

Not a bad habit at all. Don't forget to give your morse tapers (male and female) a little rub with that oil. It's nice when the centers seat properly and pop out without a 10lb hammer on the knock-out bar. Just don't get carried away and wind up having them spin in the tapers.

Just a side note: I remove both the spur drive and the live center when I'm done turning to help prevent condensation and rust from forming on the taper surfaces.



mm

 

[Ziffy]

Love WD40, but...

Boeshield makes product that removes rust, another that prevents rust and a great - non-silicon - lubricant.

Ziffy

 

[Al Neighbors]

Hey, Odie,

Don't be too surprised if your rag bursts into flame one of these nights when you're not in the shop. What you've described is the classic scenario for spontaneous combustion. Please keep that can well away from anything that will spread the fire when it starts.

Better yet, drop the habit.

With a lid on the can, it'll keep that possibility down to a minimum. But plastic does melt...

 

[Mark Mandell]

With a lid on the can, it'll keep that possibility down to a minimum. But plastic does melt...

Maybe in your shop, Al, but not in mine.

My oily and oil-based stain and finishing rags (paper towels, etc) go in the fireplace in the winter or outside in the summer to dry until garbage day.

mm

 

[MichaelMouse]

Am I the only one who assumes he's using a non-curing (non-exothermic) oil like 10W, kerosene or mineral? Not much danger of spontaneous combustion there, though if I had something like it in my shop I'd spill it sure.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Am I the only one who assumes he's using a non-curing (non-exothermic) oil like 10W, kerosene or mineral? Not much danger of spontaneous combustion there, though if I had something like it in my shop I'd spill it sure.

I'll bet you use the same stuff my buddy uses in his machine shop; cutting oils, solvents, etc. But then he's also got these red metal step-lid cans spotted around the place with water and oily rags in'em. He also has an outfit that collects and cleans the rages twice a month and takes care of the oily water as well. Same things I've seen in virtually every machine shop I've ever been in.

Maybe those oils aren't quite as non-exothermic as you think they are, but who really wants to run the risk to find out, eh? I have a fire in my shop, I'm homeless, so I'll err way on the side of caution.

 

[Odie]

I'll bet you use the same stuff my buddy uses in his machine shop; cutting oils, solvents, etc. But then he's also got these red metal step-lid cans spotted around the place with water and oily rags in'em. He also has an outfit that collects and cleans the rages twice a month and takes care of the oily water as well. Same things I've seen in virtually every machine shop I've ever been in.

Maybe those oils aren't quite as non-exothermic as you think they are, but who really wants to run the risk to find out, eh? I have a fire in my shop, I'm homeless, so I'll err way on the side of caution.

Hi all......

As a matter of fact, I work in a machine shop, and am a production machinist operating a high tolerance centerless grinder. We have those step-lid cans for disposal of oily rags there. (We don't keep h2o in them, but they are emptied weekly.) I don't have one in my home shop......the oily rag in question is in a plastic coffee can with a lid.

I believe I won't take the chance and will just get rid of it.

There are a number of oils I use in my shop and probably all of them have been used to soak the rag at one time or another.

3-in-one
WD-40
10-30 motor oil
Marvel Mystery Oil

In the many years of keeping this rag for this purpose, there has never been a problem, but I don't think I'll take the chance of burning down my shop......outside of my home, my shop is my biggest investment!

otis of cologne

 

[peteryu65]

T-9 Boeshield

OK, so there are obviously quite a few replies here. The majority if them are to use oil or WD-40. In fact, I'm quite amazed at how many people here use WD-40. Ultimately, WD-40 is a wet lubricant styled chemical. And Moisture + Sawdust = obviously a very goopy mess. Instead, I like to use a dry film lubricant called T-9 Boeshield. This product was developed by the Boeing company (commercial airplanes) to provide long term protection on airplanes. Boeshield is just as good as keeping your bed nice and rust free. After you follow their directions and buff it our, I strongly suggest a layer of wax. The stick of Beeswax you have might not work for this purpose, it contains silicone(I think). Instead, use a silicone free furniture wax ie Minwax paste finishing wax, johnsons paste wax, etc. My favorite wax for this application is Renaisannce, wax, it is expensive but for cast iron, it will last forever. Both T-9 and paste wax can be found at woodcraft, rockler, Lee Valley, etc

 

[Odie]

The stick of Beeswax you have might not work for this purpose, it contains silicone(I think). Instead, use a silicone free furniture wax ie Minwax paste finishing wax, johnsons paste wax, etc.

Why would you not want to use a wax that has silicone?

otis of cologne

 

[Mark Mandell]

Not THAT Silicone

Why would you not want to use a wax that has silicone?

otis of cologne

Odie,

You're a machinist-turned woodturner (apparently) without going through the flat work indoctrination of avoidiing silicone on any surface that wood will touch. Silicone compounds screw up application and adhesion of wood finishes, especially waterborne and water-based coatings, and once the wood is "contaminated" it's very hard to get rid of the stuff.

 

[KEW]

Why would you not want to use a wax that has silicone?

otis of cologne

Silicone has a reputation for transferring onto the wood and causing fish eyes in the finish. This is especially relevant for treating the top surfaces of table saws and band saws.
For lathes, it might not be as much of an issue since we don't routinely slide our project around on the bed, but I'm still inclined to keep it off of my lathe.

 

[Odie]

Well, OK Kurt and Mark.......

I hadn't heard of that before.....but, it doesn't make much difference since I don't use wax on my lathe ways anyway.

I do use some wax, and I believe it has some silicone in it, on my planer table. The wood does slide on this surface. I've never noticed any problems with it before. I would imagine there isn't much transfer of the wax to the wood, so that may be why.

Thanks for the tip.

otis of cologne

 

[peteryu65]

WAX-no silicone is the way to go

Hey Otis,
The truth is, a lot of wax is trasfered to the wood. At least, enough to screw it up. Have you ever done a polyurethane finish? If you have, you should know what I am talking about. Trust me, no silicone is the way to go. Just go to woodnet and ask the folks there. In fact, some people even don't suggest using wax because it may contain very minimal amounts of silicone. One alternative(though it may be a little more expensive) is to use topcoat by Bostick. You just spray it on and buff it out. It is availible from Woodcraft and Rockler. Good luck!

Peter

 

[Odie]

OK, thanks Peter, Kurt and Mark.......

I guess I'm going to have to retract my previous statement. I just checked the wax I've been using on my planer table, and it says nothing about silicone.....I thought it contained silicone, but I guess I was wrong about that.

Well, no wonder I never had any problems with it!!!!! :cool2:

I guess I should have checked before I opened my mouth! Ha!

otis of cologne

 

[justaccord]

wonderbar blocks

Surprised nobody else has mentioned it, but I've been using these for years to remove rust from cast iron tables, etc.

Works great on the ways:

http://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&itemID=104799