Salad Bowl Finish

[Bradford Whitman]

I have used a variety of finishes on large artistic bowls that may or may not be used for a salad. This bowl is white ash with striking figure entering in from the sides. I always use a light coat of Zinnser sanding sealer first to avoid blotches and unwanted darkening especially where I want contrast between figure and light background. Then I smooth it with an oil rag with fine pumice. Then General Finishes has a salad bowl finish I'm not wedded to. Liberon (UK) has a fine tung-bean based Finishing Oil. Volatile organics do go off in the drying process and it leaves a hard penetrating finishing with some darkening. I do not like direct oil finishes for the reasons I mentioned. Of course, larger pore size of ash would suck up oil as in fact does walnut. But do any of you have favorite finishes I should consider? Thx. Brad Whitman

 

[Vincent Vogel]

I use Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil for anything food contact. Can't say if it's right or wrong, but it's the best I've come up with doing research on this. The Tried and True finishes work nice too, but they take a longer time to cure than polymerized tung oil.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

I use Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil

My go to finish also.

 

[Bradford Whitman]

That does it!

 

[John K Jordan]

I use Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil for anything food contact

Looking at the Sutherland Welles web site, I see:

• Interior Polymerized Tung Oil
• Exterior Polymerized Tung Oil
• Murdoch's Polymerized Tung Oil
• Botanical Polymerized Tung Oil
• and Wiping Varnish, apparently a polymerized tung oil fortified with resin

Each (or most) in low, medium, and high luster. And I see sealers.

Could spend a fortune and get all of them and experiment a lot, I guess.
Or get recommendations from someone with experience. Specific suggestions and why? Always use the sealer?

JKJ

 

[Bradford Whitman]

SW online says 4 oz samples available
I will try a few
But their checkout gives full price each
I'll get to the bottom of that

 

[Vincent Vogel]

I buy the original interior high luster finish. When I use it I start with a 50/50 mixture thinned with food grade di-citrosol solvent. I usually apply three to four coats or more depending on how the wood absorbs it. First coat I flood it until it won't accept any more finish. Second coat is thinned three parts tung and one part solvent, third coat and more are thinned four parts tung and one part solvent. I allow three to 5 days between coats (when you can no longer smell the di-citrosol), Sutherland says it's food safe after three weeks of cure. If I want to speed up the cure I set the object on top of my water heater, this gives just enough extra heat to allow recoat in two days. This method gives me a satin to semi gloss finish. I don't like full gloss wood items generally. I buy the high luster because I can thin it to whatever gloss I want. Another product they make is Millies which is good for bowls. It is tung with beeswax. If you check out their website they have videos on how to apply their finishes. You can also call them and tell them what you are doing and they will guide you on what to buy for your project. Very helpful and nice people. As Bradford said they sell sample kits. I have been buying it in quart size and put into a stop loss bag and it keeps for the 6 months that it takes me to use it. I would like to buy a gallon if I can find a buddy to share it with to get a better deal. Again, call them if you have technical questions, they are helpful.

 

[John K Jordan]

I buy the original interior high luster finish. When I use it I start with a 50/50 mixture thinned with food grade di-citrosol solvent. I usually apply three to four coats or more depending on how the wood absorbs it. First coat I flood it until it won't accept any more finish. Second coat is thinned three parts tung and one part solvent, third coat and more are thinned four parts tung and one part solvent. I allow three to 5 days between coats

Nice info - thank you.

This method gives me a satin to semi gloss finish. I don't like full gloss wood items generally. I buy the high luster because I can thin it to whatever gloss I want.

I too (usually) prefer a satin or less glossy finish - I think it feels better and I like the way it brings out the form over the finish. I've been told glossy sells but I turn to suit me, not to sell.

JKJ

 

[robo hippy]

I have been using the walnut oil from The Doctor's Woodshop. He is a chemist. Maybe 20 years, can't remember. It is intended for wood bowls and treen ware/anything wood.

robo hippy

 

[Richard Coers]

A search would give you days of reading on here about salad bowl finishes. I prefer Minwax Quick Dry Polyurethane straight from the can. I sand it back with 320 grit and 0000 steel wool for a flat finish.

 

[John Grace]

I use Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil for anything food contact. Can't say if it's right or wrong, but it's the best I've come up with doing research on this. The Tried and True finishes work nice too, but they take a longer time to cure than polymerized tung oil.

How fast does it cure?

 

[John Grace]

I have been using the walnut oil from The Doctor's Woodshop. He is a chemist. Maybe 20 years, can't remember. It is intended for wood bowls and treen ware/anything wood.

robo hippy

That's been my 'go to' for years now though I've recently become concerned over the fact that it's a 'tree nut'. I've been meaning to reach out to him just haven't done so as of yet.

 

[Vincent Vogel]

How fast does it cure?

The Tung Oil takes a couple days to cure enough to apply a second coat and a couple or three days between further coats. If you don't let it cure some between coats you get a gummy mess. Full cure is about three weeks. Tried and true I do the same between coats and they say it cures in about three to four weeks for full cure. Last year I did a gunstock with Tried and True varnish oil and it took six months to fully cure.