sanding pads for power sanding

[Nick Boyd]

The velcro gets sloppy too fast for the pads I have last purchased. Very frustrating to have the sand disc spin off when in the otherwise sanding is going perfect - please recommend the best power sanding pads in your experience. I do like a bit of give, not hard.

Hopefully , I will be happy with my next purchase and maybe my cutting skills will continue to improve.

 

[Bill Boehme]

It sounds like the sandpaper might be overheating from using too much pressure or running the lathe or sander too fast when power sanding. My guess is that it isn't the sandpaper, but the hook fasteners on the disk have probably partially melted or broken and are no longer able to grip the loops on the sandpaper. Most likely you will need to replace the sanding disk, but I haven't noticed any significant difference between brands. Light pressure and slow speed will help to keep the sandpaper cool and extend the like of the sanding disk, but they do eventually wear out anyway.

 

[Clifton C]

I agree with Bill. I have sanding pads that are years old, on some, the foam degrades and falls apart before the velcro is shot.
One of my little tricks is to sand off the first 16th or so of the hooks around the edge of the sanding pad so I can hold down the edge of the velcro with a fingernail when changing disks. This helps to keep the velcro from getting peeled off the pad.

 

[Mike Johnson]

3M Dual Lock Velcro product is one of the better products on the market for securing sanding pads for hard use applications.

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

All good sound advice on lighter pressure and slower speeds. In addition, I've noticed a recent decline in the quality of velcro on pads. So far this is a one off thing from a single order, so I don't want to make any statements about a particular vendor. I've also seen a decline in the arbors as well from a couple vendors. I'm hopeful this is just a fluke and temporary, but I'm interested to hear if anyone else has experienced anything similar.

 

[Bill Boehme]

3M Dual Lock Velcro product is one of the better products on the market for securing sanding pads for hard use applications.

Does 3M make sanding pads and sandpaper disks with Dual Lock Velcro? I have seen 3M Hookit pads, interface pads, and sandpaper disks, but I haven't seen the name Dual Lock on anything except the rolls of Velcro tape at the local hardware store. I did a quick Google, but came up empty handed.

 

[Mike Johnson]

3M has some industrial products that they do not market to the retail sector. I will see if I can find the part numbers at work.

 

[Michael Nathal]

You can repair worn out velcro pads by sanding off the nubs and adding adhesive backed velcro. I buy 2 inch wide strips at JoAnn Fabrics. You can also use 3M spray adhesive to attach a Velcro layer. Also, I want to put in a good word for the sanding pad system sold by Woodturners Wonders (Ken Rizza). I have been using the system for 3-4 yrs now and they are holding up great.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

You need to use a backup pad on your sanding arbor. That way you will wear out the sacrificial pad and not the one on your arbor. Mush cheaper than replacing the arbor or the H&L on it.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Turningwood,com sells the Tim Skilton sanding mandrels and they are the best I have ever used. I bought several but am still using the first one that I bought at least 10 years ago.

 

[john lucas]

Overheating is probably the main issue. The best thing I ever did was to buy a pad and mandrel for every grit. That way I don't have to change the grits as much which helps save the Velcro, and they all have a chance to cool down since I'm grabbing a new mandrel as I step through the grits. It was a little expensive at first but the best money I ever spent. I haven't looked at all the different mandrels that are out there now but I purchased some from Vinceswoodnwonders in 3" size a couple of years ago and really like those.

 

[Paul M. Kaplowitz]

I had trouble years ago with separation on several brands of disks. It stopped when I went to Mirka disks. There are sold by Steve at Turningwood. The are the longest lasting, highest quality disks I have found.

 

[Nick Boyd]

all good info, i will proceed by amking sure i dont heat up as much (not as much pressure,etc) and shopping for various recomendations above. thanks

 

[Nick Boyd]

You need to use a backup pad on your sanding arbor. That way you will wear out the sacrificial pad and not the one on your arbor. Mush cheaper than replacing the arbor or the H&L on it.

I do not understand r u saying put a two sided velcro on pad then sandpaper on that?

 

[Nick Boyd]

Turningwood,com sells the Tim Skilton sanding mandrels and they are the best I have ever used. I bought several but am still using the first one that I bought at least 10 years ago.

these? wow - expensive - are they soft,hard, in between?

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I have these on all my mandrels .Like John said I have mandrels for each grit but I made most of mine myself just could not see spending 140 for something I could make. I use the hex screwdriver bits, a small piece of wood, a piece of kazen foam and some velcro pad.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I would say they are in between Nick. Yes they are not the cheapest you can find but hard pressed to find a mandrel that lasts longer than 10 years. I mainly use the 3" and my cost so far for the one I'm still using is around $2 a year. I have probably gone through more than a few hundred dollars of 3" disks with this mandrel, Also a fan of the Mirka Gold sanding disks that Steve sells. Also if you notice on the site it tells how to replace the velcro on these mandrels, I have never replaced the velcro on the one I'm using.

 

[Owen Lowe]

Nick, I think some of us talking about two different items for sanding. I’m not very clear on what sanding pad you are referring to.

• The sanding mandrel that secures in the drill chuck. This has velcro and a foam pad of some sort with a shaft out the “back” to go in the chuck.
• There are “interface" pads that some/most of us use between the above mandrel and the sandpaper. These are intended to save the velcro on the mandrel and to provide different degrees of foam cushioning and edge profiles for sanding details.

I have found the yellow foam mandrels do not last that long for me — not the velcro but the foam attachment to the drill shaft part. I guess the flexing I do to the foam is just too much for it. I’ve bought about 1/2 dozen of them over the last 3-4 years and they’ve all failed in the same way. The single white latex rubber mandrel I bought 15 years ago is still going strong and I just received some more and am repurposing the yellow foam mandrels. (www.2sand.com) It’s a firmer cushion than the yellow foam.

The backup pads I generally use are from Vince’s (http://vinceswoodnwonders.com). I use all three firmnesses depending on the grit and details. Vince has an informative video up on YouTube for how to use these as you progress through the grits. (I believe the link is on his webpage somewhere.) My problem with these has been that the velcro holds so well that it occasionally pulls the fuzzy side off the sandpaper or pulls the velcro hook part away from the interface foam. I have to stick my fingernails between the hooks and loops to separate them so as not to stress the glues.

I’ve purchased from both 2sand and Vince (AAW member); they ship quickly and are cost effective alternatives to mainstream outlets.

 

[Dean Center]

Overheating is probably the main issue. The best thing I ever did was to buy a pad and mandrel for every grit. That way I don't have to change the grits as much which helps save the Velcro, and they all have a chance to cool down since I'm grabbing a new mandrel as I step through the grits. It was a little expensive at first but the best money I ever spent. I haven't looked at all the different mandrels that are out there now but I purchased some from Vinceswoodnwonders in 3" size a couple of years ago and really like those.

Does that mean you're using 5 drills or 6, John?

 

[Lamar Wright]

I want to put in a good word for the sanding pad system sold by Woodturners Wonders (Ken Rizza). I

I agree with Michael, Ken has high quality sanding pad systems.

 

[Scott Ross]

Overheating is probably the main issue. The best thing I ever did was to buy a pad and mandrel for every grit. That way I don't have to change the grits as much which helps save the Velcro, and they all have a chance to cool down since I'm grabbing a new mandrel as I step through the grits. It was a little expensive at first but the best money I ever spent. I haven't looked at all the different mandrels that are out there now but I purchased some from Vinceswoodnwonders in 3" size a couple of years ago and really like those.

I know I am replying to an old post - but John, I took this recommendation and it is fantastic advice. Turning is more fun with this setup - having a mandrel/pad for each grit I use. I bought mine from turningwood.com.

 

[Lowell Fuher]

As a user/abuser of my 2-inch Sanding Pad Holder Mandrels, I have touched base here and read through this discussion to (1) determine if there is something I can do differently that will help me solve my problem of going through mandrels so fast, and (2) is there a better mandrel I could use for longevity?

I guess I am using too heavy a hand for one, and when a disk slips to the side, I end up burning the hook-and-loop to the point it's toast.
Learning is key.

 

[Lennart Delin]

I made my own from Quick lock discs. Glued on circles of seat pad, and a hook pad. All with epoxy, self adhesive falls off due to heat. The hook pads last a long time. I only change sanding discs when worn out. Extremely quick to change Quick lock disks. I tried those quick release hex shafts, but too wobbly.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, twp things contribute to the hooks wearing out, as said before, too much pressure, too much speed. This is part of why I use the interface pads. I am a fan of the discs from Vince Welch, and his interface pads. His abrasives just last longer than any others I have tried. I do or did have one of the Skilton mandrils and it was very high quality, but not sure if it is worth it. With the constant changing of the discs, the loop part of the discs eventually wears out before the hooks do, at least usually. Now, for interface pads, again, I go with Vince. I do like his firm pads, especially the firm one with the 1/4 round profile on the edge, especially when compared to the straight cornered ones. It just fits into the transition area of the bowls better than the square edge. I use the firm pad up to 180 or so, and then the medium pads up to 400. If I go beyond 400, then I switch to a soft pad since you are essentially polishing out scratches. 120 grit on a firm pad cuts far faster than 80 grit on a soft pad. It is not a grit thing as much as a backing thing, firm just works better and much faster. Going to the soft pads or even the medium pads too soon just makes the sanding go slower. Maybe it is a more even pressure surface. Vince does have kind of domed medium pads, but I wish he made a 1/4 round profile on the larger firm pads. Again, they fit into the transition area of a bowl better than a square corner.

robo hippy

 

[Lowell Fuher]

Thanks, Robo. I hadn't been to Vince's website before, but I have now, and I'll be testing the interface pads I just ordered, and I'm looking forward to it. I will be modifying my "heavy-handed" sanding approach to achieve better results. Kind of like my other current project of building a buffing stand to complete the process. My learning curve is taking shape.

Hope the weather there in Eugene is getting as nice as it is here in Kennewick - it's spring, and the birds are starting to make the trees sound nice.
Lowell

 

[hughie]

I always cut my pads or use pad that are slightly over sized so the wrap over the edge of the velcro. Even to the point of reducing the daimeter of the pad by about 1/8th or 3-4mm.