Sandpaper choice

[Gerald Lawrence]

Guess I have not posted a new thread in a long time......forgot how to get started, but finally a bright moment.
I am at the point to order more flat sheet sandpaper. I have always used paper sheets, but notice on Klingspor their cloth back is foldable or waded without losing granules ( Norton 3X does pretty good) and thinking of getting 600 and up for now.

Question is what are your preferences on flat sheet sanding?

 

[Odie]

Hi Gerald.........I've been using the Japanese Finkat paper for about 10 years now......don't see a reason to switch! I've also used Norton 3X in the past.....also a good paper, and would be my second choice if it was one, or the other.

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/36/1714/Finkat-Sanding-Paper-10-Pack


Note: I was just looking for a link to Norton 3X, and it looks like this brand has been discontinued. It is replaced with Norton Pro-Sand.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I've been using Norton ProSand for a couple years. It has a lot more of what I would describe as "tooth" than the 3X which has been phased out as Odie mentioned. In other words, it really bites into the wood in a manner comparable to Abranet. It also seems to last longer than the 3X paper.

I've always quartered sandpaper sheets and then fold each quarter into thirds. I like stiff backed sandpaper because I can work close t edges with less chance of round over.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I do miss the Norton 3X... What they sell now at home depot and lowes is crap... Some of it comes with a sticky back! So you can't unfold it to use the third piece when you fold it in 3... I ordered some from Amazon, the new Norton Pro Sand, is just as good! Also ordered direct from Mirka. The cheap sandpaper is not worth it, the Norton is way better. I was dissapointed with it, and I got a lot! Got several rolls of Abranet, thats the best... Here we are limited in what can we buy on the Island. Best option is Amazon, by far... I believe I might try some of the Premium Mirka Sandpaper, has to be good right? Hope this helps... Aloha

 

[Odie]

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/36/4928/Abranet-Sanding-Screen-Sheets-5-Pack

I was looking at the reviews for Abranet sandpaper screens, and there seems to be quite a few very positive reviews of it. Many of the reviews claiming that Abranet lasts longer......so, how can that be? I guess I can understand that a screen substrate might expel sanding dust, and have less tendency to clog......or, is that the reason some of these people seem to think Abranet lasts longer?

I've never tried Abranet, so I have no comment on it specifically. Otherwise, it seems to me, that the reason why premature clogging of regular paper-type sandpapers, is usually the result of pressing too hard, and/or too long....without shaking it out, or using air frequently. Now, when the abrasive becomes dulled, THAT should be the reason for tossing it, and getting a new piece. Well, you would think so, anyway........

ko

 

[john lucas]

What is good about abranet is if you sand green wood or have put a finish on the wood to harden it that tends to clog the sandpaper. When the abranet gets clogged, which is much harder to do, you just sort of flex it and the stuff just falls out of the screen. I don't use it much because it's expensive and I don't need those qualities often. I like the Norton 3x in the courser grits. 600 and up I use some brown paper I get from Thesandingglove.com. I haven't been to his site in a while and don't know if he still sells it. I rarely need to sand beyond 600 so I just don't use it much.

 

[Dave Mueller]

I use Abranet almost exclusively. First, it doesn't clog as bad as other sandpaper, especially for oily exotics like cocobolo. Just flick it with your finger and it cleans itself. Second, it lasts about twice as long as others. I buy it from National Abrasives Inc (http://www.nainc.org/mirka/abranet) in the 2 3/4" X 10 yard rolls for $24 each grade. Although this is about 20% cheaper than other suppliers, it is still a bit pricey. However, if you cut it into 4" long pieces, you will get 1080 sheets, which will last a really long time. You can try it by buying a 5 sheet pack of various grits for about $6. It is great sand paper.

 

[Odie]

600 and up I use some brown paper I get from Thesandingglove.com.

John......you must be speaking of this Norton A275 sheets:

http://thesandingglove.com/Norton-A275-Abrasive-Sheets.asp

While I've never gone above 600 grit with my preferred Finkat paper, there are times I think I can use a little finer grit. I can recall a few walnut, and other woods I've turned in the past, where 600 still leaves a faint swirly sanding mark. This sometimes isn't very evident, until after I've applied some Danish Oil over the sanded surface. Normally, this can be taken care of after the D.O. dries, with some 0000 steel wool.

I think I'd like to have some of the super fine grits in my "stash" to play around with. Thanks for the "heads up", John.......

ko

 

[Richard Coers]

I'm a big fan of Siasoft. paper and film for the fine grits, cloth for courser. You can fold the cloth backed over double and no creases. http://vinceswoodnwonders.com/siasoft-paper-and-film-backed-abrasive/

 

[Raul McCai]

on flat sheet sanding?

Norton / Indasa Rynosoft ( from Portugal). I've got burned with the cheap stuff. The cheap stuff works but it's messy.

 

[Tim Leiter]

I use the finkat paper for sanding as well. It seems to do a very good job and leave a very nice surface. It worked better than the multiple grits of paper that comes in the dispenser box and some of the Norton papers I've tried. After the finkat has done its job I sometimes go to the micromesh pads but most of the time I don't need it.
Tim.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Thanks for the info . Best I could find Norton only goes up to 400. So I have used Finkat 400 and that makes the choice between that and the A275 from Sanding Glove which sounds like a unusual latex backing. Probably Finkat.

Figured that the waters would be muddy but got some answers

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

John......you must be speaking of this Norton A275 sheets:

http://thesandingglove.com/Norton-A275-Abrasive-Sheets.asp

While I've never gone above 600 grit with my preferred Finkat paper, there are times I think I can use a little finer grit. I can recall a few walnut, and other woods I've turned in the past, where 600 still leaves a faint swirly sanding mark. This sometimes isn't very evident, until after I've applied some Danish Oil over the sanded surface. Normally, this can be taken care of after the D.O. dries, with some 0000 steel wool.

I think I'd like to have some of the super fine grits in my "stash" to play around with. Thanks for the "heads up", John.......

ko

Odie, have you tried woodturner's sanding wax, from Casey Hulihan? Takes the scratches and or swirl marks off, and no dust...

 

[Odie]

Odie, have you tried woodturner's sanding wax, from Casey Hulihan? Takes the scratches and or swirl marks off, and no dust...

Hello Emiliano.......

No, I haven't. Where can I get some information on it?

Thanks......odie

 

[Odie]

I use the finkat paper for sanding as well. It seems to do a very good job and leave a very nice surface. It worked better than the multiple grits of paper that comes in the dispenser box and some of the Norton papers I've tried. After the finkat has done its job I sometimes go to the micromesh pads but most of the time I don't need it.
Tim.

This is my experience too, Tim........The Finkat papers, up to 600 grit, usually leave a superb surface. There is an occasional bowl that has very faint swirly sanding marks that I don't always catch, until after the Danish Oil is applied. I'd say this particular problem is only about one in ten bowls.....or so. It seems to be more often with walnut wood, but it could be that darker woods show it more.....? The faint sanding marks can be removed with 0000 steel wool, but it does take a little "elbow grease" to completely eliminate them. I think some finer abrasive than 600 is the ticket to fix these little buggers when they do crop up. I'm still monitoring this thread for other options..........but, some finer papers are probably the way to go.

ko

 

[Bill Boehme]

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/36/4928/Abranet-Sanding-Screen-Sheets-5-Pack

I was looking at the reviews for Abranet sandpaper screens, and there seems to be quite a few very positive reviews of it. Many of the reviews claiming that Abranet lasts longer......so, how can that be? I guess I can understand that a screen substrate might expel sanding dust, and have less tendency to clog......or, is that the reason some of these people seem to think Abranet lasts longer?

I've never tried Abranet, so I have no comment on it specifically. Otherwise, it seems to me, that the reason why premature clogging of regular paper-type sandpapers, is usually the result of pressing too hard, and/or too long....without shaking it out, or using air frequently. Now, when the abrasive becomes dulled, THAT should be the reason for tossing it, and getting a new piece. Well, you would think so, anyway........

ko

You could get a sample pack to see what you think about Abranet. The biggest difference between it and regular sandpaper is that the dust isn't trapped between the wood and the paper and it is really impressive how much dust comes through the screen. Because of this, Abranet cuts much faster than other sandpaper. And it really does last far longer than sandpaper. I haven't made any measurements to see how much longer, but I have some that have celebrated at least two birthdays. Well, maybe that's stretching it slightly, but it lasts a very long time compared to sandpaper. I usually toss it when it isn't any better than slightly used regular sandpaper. I have Abranet disks up to 1000 grit, but the kind that comes in rolls only goes up to 400 grit.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I tried Abranet a long time ago and the problem for me , and I guess many turners, is how to tell when to toss it. I have gotten much better at doing that with regular papers... I know part of that is the old failed belief that used paper is the next lower grit.

 

[john lucas]

someone once told me to use sandpaper like someone else is paying for it. Well apparently that someone else is just as cheap as I am

 

[Bill Boehme]

... I know part of that is the old failed belief that used paper is the next lower grit.

For me, worn out paper is equivalent to the next higher grit. I know the problem is bigger number = smaller grit. Just like on a camera where smaller iris = larger aperture number.

I started using sandpaper like John Lucas was paying for it which wasn't any improvement over my previous method.

 

[Odie]

someone once told me to use sandpaper like someone else is paying for it. Well apparently that someone else is just as cheap as I am

Heh,heh,heh.......Yeah, you know it, John......

The reason that rumor is so persistent, is because it has some basis in truth! Once a turner starts tossing out sandpaper like someone else is paying for it.....the whole sanding progression starts getting faster......and faster!

Besides initially starting at the finest grit possible, another thing that speeds up the sanding is guessing correctly what grit to start at.....that helps a lot! For example, once I have an acceptable tool finish, and I'm wondering what grit to start at.....I have to make a decision at that point, and if I guess wrong, I'll still be able to conclude the sanding, but at the cost of a much longer time to do so. If I guess wrong, it might take five times as long to progress from the initial grit, to the next finer grit. So......If I think I can get away with starting at 320, I might just forget about trying, and start at 240 instead. The exception to this, might be if that particular surface is intended to have some detail grooves, or other feature where the minimum of variance from geometric perfection is required for the final "visual effect". In that case, I take my best guess, and go with it!

ko

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Hello Emiliano.......

No, I haven't. Where can I get some information on it?

Thanks......odie

Casey Hulihan runs a Facebook group call Turners Woodshed. His product comes from England. Its perfect for boxes. I'm attaching a PDF with info about the Sanding wax. I really like it.

 

[John Torchick]

Cheap? I'm so cheap, they have my picture next to the word in the dictionary.
As for sandpaper, I buy at Lowe's or HF. HF has a mixed pack of different grits. It is a decent quality but keep in mind I'm not turning out exquisite bowls, etc., like some on the forum. I'm like odie- where do I start? If I figure wrong, it is back up and start over. FWIW, I bought the pack of sanding pads from WC for pen turning. That is what we used for my grandson's project. Now we are gearing up to do a pen with acrylic. Never done acrylic before so it will be a challenge and learning experience.

 

[Odie]

Casey Hulihan runs a Facebook group call Turners Woodshed. His product comes from England. Its perfect for boxes. I'm attaching a PDF with info about the Sanding wax. I really like it.

Thank you Emiliano........

Here's a copy of the text:

A hand made mix of Danish Oil, Mineral Oil, Beeswax, lemon oil and Pumice To provide a finely keyed surface to turned wood projects prior to final finishing Surface should be clean, dry and sanded to at least 240 grit. The surface should be sealed with sanding sealer and ‘de-nibbed’ with either the last grit sandpaper used or 0000 wire wool. Apply a coat with the lathe stopped; work the wax into the piece with the lathe spinning at a moderate speed with increasing pressure. The abrasive powders degrade into finer and finer particle sizes so the longer you work the wax into the wood the better the finish. Approximately 2-5 minutes at an ambient temperature of 15-20 C Paste, waxy consistency with a coarse texture. Product will stiffen at lower temperatures and may become softer at elevated temperatures. Flammable and harmful: Health may be damaged by extended exposure or by inhalation of vapours. The vapours may cause drowsiness and / or dizziness; Ensure adequate ventilation and Wear appropriate Personal Protective equipment. Do not consume the product or apply to the body. Repeated exposure may cause skin dryness or cracking. Clean hands with warm water and an appropriate cleansing agent. Clothing may be washed using usual methods.

Have you used this product off the lathe, and prior to the Beale buff method?

.......anyone?

ko

 

[Steve Worcester]

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/36/4928/Abranet-Sanding-Screen-Sheets-5-Pack

I was looking at the reviews for Abranet sandpaper screens, and there seems to be quite a few very positive reviews of it. Many of the reviews claiming that Abranet lasts longer......so, how can that be? I guess I can understand that a screen substrate might expel sanding dust, and have less tendency to clog......or, is that the reason some of these people seem to think Abranet lasts longer?

I've never tried Abranet, so I have no comment on it specifically. Otherwise, it seems to me, that the reason why premature clogging of regular paper-type sandpapers, is usually the result of pressing too hard, and/or too long....without shaking it out, or using air frequently. Now, when the abrasive becomes dulled, THAT should be the reason for tossing it, and getting a new piece. Well, you would think so, anyway........

ko

Send me an email and I can send you a sample of Abranet

 

[Odie]

Send me an email and I can send you a sample of Abranet

That's mighty kind of you, Steve.....thank you.

I'm browsing your site, and will send a PM shortly......

edit: Looks like you are asking for an email instead.....look for that shortly.......

ko

 

[Jamie Straw]

When the abranet gets clogged, which is much harder to do, you just sort of flex it and the stuff just falls out of the screen.

I just slap it on the bed ways a couple of times. Or, stick my hand inside the dust-collector hose.

I don't use it much because it's expensive and I don't need those qualities often.

I did a test on Abranet v. Klingspor discs on a DeWalt 5" ROS years and years ago, sanding poplar for a cabinet project (to be painted). The Abranet lasted 5x longer than the Klingspor.

I will watch this thread carefully. Sanding continues to be a big challenge. Probably more technique than materials, but still.

 

[pete marken]

I have been using the 3M 15X for a while now and have good results. It is very long lasting, flexible, aggressive and is non clogging. The only problem is I have only been able to find it up yo 320 grit so it has been used mainly as a utility paper.

 

[robo hippy]

The only abrasive like Abranet that I tried was one from Vince Welch. No idea about longevity, but like the Astradot stuff, the coarse grits were really slow to cut, but the higher grits, some where around 220 or so cut about the same as the blue stuff from Vince. So, if you always start at 220 or above, then great, but if you really have to cut, then you need some thing else. All the modern abrasives are not screened or sifted any more, it is a static electric type thing which gives a much more consistent grit range.

robo hippy