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Screws for faceplate mounting

Larry Parker

Larry Parker

Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
92
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36
Location
Grottoes, VA
What size and type screws do recommend for faceplate mounting? I have a Jet 1221VS with a 3” face plated, I was turning the outside of a bowl and when I went to remove the face plate I found that 2 of the screws had broken off about 3/4” inside the bowl. They are a pain to get out. The screws I used were a standard #10 wood screw 2” long. Please give me a recommendation on the type of screws I should be using for this. BTW, the bowl is about 6’ -7” in diameter.

Thanks in advance!
 
Larry Parker said:
What size and type screws do recommend for faceplate mounting? I have a Jet 1221VS with a 3” face plated, I was turning the outside of a bowl and when I went to remove the face plate I found that 2 of the screws had broken off about 3/4” inside the bowl. They are a pain to get out. The screws I used were a standard #10 wood screw 2” long. Please give me a recommendation on the type of screws I should be using for this. BTW, the bowl is about 6’ -7” in diameter.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
I use #10 or #12 self tapping sheet metal screws, either 1” or 1.5”. They won’t break and have incredible holding strength.
 
ditto sheet metal screws, but I found the philips heads become unusable after 2-3 uses. The square drive heads last longer. I pre-drill for dry wood unless really soft, like willow or aspen.
 
I use galvanized torx head deck screws #8x 1 1/2 or longer. Torx drive screws can be used 20-30 times without failing. Beware of using longer screws because the shank will twist off in wet wood if alllowed to sit very long.
 
One thing I think helps is to use screws that are coated to resist corrosion. I have construction screws that have some kind of coating and the blue concrete screws the coating seems to be bombproof. Any corrosion that gets started while the screw is in the wood will tend to lock the screw in more than usual and stain the surrounding wood.
 
I use #10 or 12 sheet metal screws, hex or oval phillips head depending the faceplate holes - some of mine have countersunk holes. I keep some paste wax thinned with ms in a small container and dip the screws before insertion with a cordless impact driver, wet or dry wood. The wax helps them go in and protect from corrosion but I dont like to leave the screws in wet wood for more than a few days. I use the zinc coated hex and ss oval phillips. The driver will snap them off if you were to keep hitting them once down.

Believe the screws range in length from 3/4 to 2”, depends on the faceplate and project.
 
#12 stainless steel sheet metal screws - square drive, 1-1/2 and 2” lengths. Been using the same screws for over a decade. Got them during a boat restore project; they might cost a little more, but they’ve lasted forever and never lost a piece in the process.
 
#12 stainless steel sheet metal screws - square drive, 1-1/2 and 2” lengths. Been using the same screws for over a decade. Got them during a boat restore project; they might cost a little more, but they’ve lasted forever and never lost a piece in the process.
 
I prefer sheet metal hex head screws #10 or 12 1.5 or 2 inches or longer depending on the project--don't like depending on the Phillips or square drives---just too many bit failures experienced. When they show rust, I discard them.
Thought about the blue concrete screws but wasn't sure how much repeated torqueing they can stand.
 
I did a presentation to our club a while back on screws for faceplate mounting. You can find the PDF for reference here: http://www.nmwoodturners.org/wp-content/uploads/HyTran_FaceplateMounting.pdf

Measure the screw holes for your faceplate, and buy the largest diameter fastener that will go through the hole. Countersink the underside of the faceplate holes a little (good quality faceplates have countersunk back-side holes), so that wood mushrooming out doesn't push your faceplate off the wood.
 
David Hill said:
I prefer sheet metal hex head screws #10 or 12 1.5 or 2 inches or longer depending on the project--don't like depending on the Phillips or square drives---just too many bit failures experienced. When they show rust, I discard them.
Thought about the blue concrete screws but wasn't sure how much repeated torqueing they can stand.
Click to expand...
Ive been using the same handful of the blue screws for a year and havent damaged any of them yet. They are phillips drive too and if the bit manages to slip it dont seem to be able to do any damage to the slots. Id love to get some with the spline drive the construction screws use.
 
Been doing pecan 15 inch blanks and have used sheet metal #12 1 1/2 inch. However neither head lasted so the last I bought is the hex head so we will see how the head lasts. Have never had corrosion because the come out after roughing the bowl. Oh the pecan is green.
 
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