Second bevel on old-style spindle gouge. John L.??

[Jamie Straw]

This is a large, 1970's Rockwell spindle gouge, 3/4". It has a very long, low bevel factory ground (26 degrees). Sparked by John Lucas' suggestion, I tried my hand at putting a secondary bevel on it, hopefully to make it easier to use (it's very aggressive, at my skill level, impossible to use). So, the added small bevel at the tip is at 33 degrees (picture is deceptive, it measures out though).
Is this the generally the right idea?

 

[john lucas]

Yes but I would also knock off the sharp corner at the bottom of the second bevel. The sharp edge increases the friction so it's harder to feel the cut. I can also leave a burnished mark on the bottom of bowls or long coves. You can't see these burnished marks while sanding. They only show up as discolored rings when you start to finish. The burnished area doesn't absorb the finish the same way as the rest of the wood. This usually happens when you don't have a really smooth continuous motion of the gouge. Any hesitation and you can get the burnish marks. Grinding off that sharp corner just takes a second and eliminates this. What I do is after I've sharpened the main bevel and secondary bevel in the Wolverine jig I pull the tool out of the jig and then just touch the bottom sharp edge to the wheel and hand rotate it to grind this away. It doesn't matter what it looks like, just that it's gone.