Hi Everyone, I've been turning for a few years, and have been using a Nova G3 chuck on my Jet 1221. I'd like to get a second chuck to help reduce time changing jaws, but I'm stuck between whether I should buy another G3, or something like the lite supernova 2. I'm not sure what the differences are aside from the chuck "key". I'm also open to using other brands, though I have 4 different jaws so it would seem like a waste to not get a nova chuck. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you!
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Second Chuck Recommendations
- Thread starter Matt Friedman
- Start date
Is there any chance you'll be getting a bigger lathe someday? If so, get the supernova 2...I have five and they work well for me as well as being affordable. If you see yourself staying with the size lathe you have now then I'd just stick with the G3. No sense over-buying for a capacity you can never take advantage of.
Agree with @John Grace. Adding to that, get a chuck with an insert, rather than direct threaded. That way, when you move to a bigger lathe you can just replace the insert (rather than using an inferior adapter).
Mark Hepburn
Artist & Chef
I agree with John also. I like Nova and have a few. There’s nothing wrong with the G3 at all. But if you think you’re going to move on to something bigger then the supernova makes sense. Jaws are interchangeable
I too agree with @John Grace
The SN2 is a larger and better chuck than the G3 and if you're like many of us, the turning addiction will lead to more chucks later. Keeping them "in the family" is great for jaw interchangeability. (I have many, used to be about 20 before I gave some to friends.. I don't like to change jaws. And I often have wood mounted in more than one chuck at a time.)
The newer version of the Supernova 2 has reversed the gearing so the turning the key clockwise tightens the chuck on a tenon. I understand this is more in line with other chuck mfgrs. The direction was never an issue for me since I always thought of it turning clockwise tightened into a recess, my normal holding method for face turning.
Now that I have some that turn the other way, I use a vibrating scriber to make an curved arrow at each key socket pointing to the direction that opens the chuck and draw over the arrow with a red Sharpie and write the word "OPEN" on the chuck body. This way I always know at a glance which way is which.
Even if the newer SN2 lite has the opposite direction from the G3, it's shouldn't be a problem. And if, or rather, WHEN you get another new chuck or two in the future they will likely turn the same way.
I also agree with @Michael Anderson about getting the insert version. I had some G3 chucks with inserts I used at times with one of my mini lathes, then installed inserts for the larger lathes. When I gave the G3s to a friend with a smaller lathe, I simply put the smaller inserts back in. If you switch to a larger lathe later just buy the new insert.
Another possible advantage of the inserts with the chucks I use, but I'm not entirely sure about the other Nova chucks that are direct threaded. All of my chucks were the insert versions except for one big Nova Titan which was only available as direct threaded. The problem I had: I use a chuck wrench when removing chucks from the lathe, often with wood still mounted in the jaws. My wrenches fit the hex surfaces on the end of all the Nova chuck inserts. However, the direct threaded Titan did not have a way to use the wrench. I was about to put it on the milling machine an mill some flats for the wrench until I decided to give the Titan to a friend who liked to turn large things. Being able to use the wrench might not be important to you, but for me it's a way of life. Unlike some, I have good reasons to loosen the chucks with a wrench.
JKJ
The SN2 is a larger and better chuck than the G3 and if you're like many of us, the turning addiction will lead to more chucks later. Keeping them "in the family" is great for jaw interchangeability. (I have many, used to be about 20 before I gave some to friends.. I don't like to change jaws. And I often have wood mounted in more than one chuck at a time.)
The newer version of the Supernova 2 has reversed the gearing so the turning the key clockwise tightens the chuck on a tenon. I understand this is more in line with other chuck mfgrs. The direction was never an issue for me since I always thought of it turning clockwise tightened into a recess, my normal holding method for face turning.
Now that I have some that turn the other way, I use a vibrating scriber to make an curved arrow at each key socket pointing to the direction that opens the chuck and draw over the arrow with a red Sharpie and write the word "OPEN" on the chuck body. This way I always know at a glance which way is which.
Even if the newer SN2 lite has the opposite direction from the G3, it's shouldn't be a problem. And if, or rather, WHEN you get another new chuck or two in the future they will likely turn the same way.
I also agree with @Michael Anderson about getting the insert version. I had some G3 chucks with inserts I used at times with one of my mini lathes, then installed inserts for the larger lathes. When I gave the G3s to a friend with a smaller lathe, I simply put the smaller inserts back in. If you switch to a larger lathe later just buy the new insert.
Another possible advantage of the inserts with the chucks I use, but I'm not entirely sure about the other Nova chucks that are direct threaded. All of my chucks were the insert versions except for one big Nova Titan which was only available as direct threaded. The problem I had: I use a chuck wrench when removing chucks from the lathe, often with wood still mounted in the jaws. My wrenches fit the hex surfaces on the end of all the Nova chuck inserts. However, the direct threaded Titan did not have a way to use the wrench. I was about to put it on the milling machine an mill some flats for the wrench until I decided to give the Titan to a friend who liked to turn large things. Being able to use the wrench might not be important to you, but for me it's a way of life. Unlike some, I have good reasons to loosen the chucks with a wrench.
JKJ
I notice that it’s starting to get a little harder to find the Nova chucks. I’ve not yet had a chance to try one, but I understand the Rikon chucks accept all Nova jaws so that might be an alternative. I’ve heard from 2 people who’ve used them that the Rikon chucks worked well and were very much like the Nova. The Rikon’s also have an insert based system.
Record Power chucks also will work with the G3 Nova jaws.
Nothing wrong with a Oneway Stronghold chuck, or an easy wood chuck. I have 3 of each and each has their place along with a few others chucks. As with clamps, you can never have too many chucks 
I don't know about Rikon jaws on Nova chucks or Nova jaws on Rikon chucks. I thought they were not compatible.
Nova chucks are available on Amazon. The 1-1/4" inserts are not currently available from Amazon but other dealers say they have them in stock and accept orders.
I just ordered an extra SN2 chuck and insert for "just in case". I didn't order the chuck with jaws since I have extra jaws.
I'll report back with either success or if any problems jump up and try to bite.
JKJ
Thanks everyone for all the great advice!
I use the G3 on my Powermatic all the time. It holds just as well as the SN2. I mainly always used the G3 on my midi lathes as it was lighter for the 1" shaft of the mini/midi lathes. The new thing with Nova is that you buy direct from them that's why you don't see a lot of their stuff anywhere.
I have SN2 lefty tighty, Nova super nova pro tech righty tighty, Rikon z3, Robert Sorby Patriot, and Record Power sc4 chucks and jaws/chucks all interchange from each of these manufacturers. They all take the 8mm hex key to operate with the exception of the Rikon z3 which takes a geared key. Mounting screws interchange too. They all work equally well as far as quality. Only difference I have noticed is the Sorby chuck has a little more travel range than the others.
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I spoke with Rikon and they said they are compatible. I also spoke with someone at Rockler when I was in there for something and they said the reason they picked up the Rikon line was because of the Nova compatibility and fact they had carried Nova for so long. No personal experience with them, but so far I’ve got consistency of message.
I recently added a second lathe to the shop and got the Rion Z4 (1-1/4) chuck. First lathe was a midi and I went with the NOVA G3 initially. I can say that all of the NOVA jaws I have do work on the Rikon chuck. I have not checked if the included jaws with the Rikon work on the G3 but could check that tonight (if I remember).
I'll bet money on who is producing that Rikon chuck and it is no wonder why the jaws are interchangeable with the Nova. When a factory has extra capacity to make a product why not make the same product for other companies. All you need is a fiber laser to print on the steel and a few changes to handles and such.
I have three SuperNova 2s. I bought them when they were on sale at KMS Tools (CA) for $85 US. For that price, they can't be beat. I haven't seen a deal like that in a while. Of the three I bought, two are lefty tighten and the other is normal. I suspect they were getting rid of the "backwards" models in that sale.
The Easy Chuck is worth a look. I have one and use it mostly for boxes. The thing about it is that it takes seconds to change out the jaws, which is a huge convenience. I use mine mostly on the boxes I am making. All of my bowl turning stuff is set up for the Vicmark chucks, and the Easy Chuck doesn't have comparable jaw sizes for bowl turning. Their jaws are not numbered.
robo hippy
robo hippy
I have 4 nova chucks; the tommy bar kind, each with its own set of jaws. I also own three stronghold chucks. The tommy bars aren't a big deal for me, but they are all direct thread. They were cheap though, and strongholds are not! Again, I have three different jaw sets on the strongholds; a #2, #3, and #5.
I have a G3 and 5 Supernovas, a couple picked up from KMS when they were getting rid of the "lefty-tighty" models. The advantage of the hex key operation of the SuperNs comes when remounting rough turned bowls. I cut a rebate on the inner surface of the bowls when green to mount onto the chuck to finish turn the outside after drying. Larger bowls extend over the chuck but hex keys can still operate it. One can't do that with the G3 or the big Oneway chucks.
I have half a dozen or so Nova chucks mainly SN2 with several spare jaws , all the more, the merrier. 
I have 4 Nova G3s and one Super Nova 2 for my Jet 1221vs. I rarely have to change jaws now
I don't know exactly anymore how many chucks I have since I downsized my lathes but I know I have over 20 Novas of 5 models, 3 Vicmarc, 3 Oneway, 3 Axminster, 3 Bulldog and a few other lesser known. And as I always say not one of these named chucks is better than another, the difference is what they cost. I go to my cupboard not for the name of the chuck but for the jaws that are on any chuck. There are probably 20 different jaw sets on these chucks from 8" to 1" or smaller. You can never have enough chucks. 
I see things a little different. I then started buying Nova 2 chucks (7) and Record power chucks (2). There didn’t seem to be an end to adding chucks and jaws. I ended up selling all the Nova and Record chucks and bought 2 Axminster and multiple jaws with slides. I added two more Axminster chucks when Lee Valley was closing them out at a great price. Now I just buy the jaws and slides as changing jaws on the Axminster is a breeze. For me Axminster is less expensive than buying 20 chucks.