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Segment Table Saw Blade Recommendations

William Rogers

William Rogers

Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
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Location
Haubstadt, Indiana
I plan to start segmenting in the near future. I have only done a couple trials so far. I’m sure the Forrest Chopmaster is a very good blade for this, but not quite within reach right now. I have a 60 tooth and 80 tooth Diablo blades I plan to start with. Both of these blades are thin kerf. I have never had a problem with thin kerf blades using them in the vertical position, but likely will also use them in a tilted mode for some segmenting and wonder about possible blade flexing. What blades are good for using for doing segment cutting.
 
I'd probably just go with a brand new blade of an average solid brand such as Diablo which are readily available and relatively inexpensive and set that aside for *EXCLUSIVELY* one purpose - in your case segmenting.

AND- Since most segmenting usually involves cross cuts , I'd make sure the blade is specifically a cross-cutting tooth configuration which typically leaves a much finer finish cut going cross-grain than a general purpose saw blade does.

I don't think compound angles are going to be a problem for a thin kerf blade for segmenting since generally I would imagine segments are going to be cut on a purpose-build sled for the purpose? If the blade is sharp and sled is set up properly so as to not offer side pressure on the blade, I would not expect the blade to flex.
 
I don't do a lot of segmenting, but when i do i have a dedicated Tenryu 8 1/4" 60 tooth blade that i use in my table saw. My stock is almost always 3/4" or thinner, so losing the 1" of cross-cut capacity is no big deal. It's also a bit thinner than normal 10" thin-kerf blades, so it works well for thin inlays in pen blanks as well (think Celtic knots). The Tenryu probably came from Carbide Processors out in Washington state.
 
@Jerry Bennett Thanks Jerry. I have already made my wedge sled and wedgies and I did buy SegmentPro software. That will be another learning process as is segmenting. Right now I am trying to clear out my shop queens (started, but not finished) and a few specialty turnings. I am getting tired of processing logs and have a lot of board stock and a decent amount of exotic stock to start with. Will do some with walnut and maple to get a feel before using the exotic wood.
 
Many segment bowl makers find the miter saw to not be the perfect tool. Between machine flex and flying segments, it's not the best option. Experts like Malcolm Tibbets and so many others, use a sled on a table saw. I found that years ago when I was making high end furniture. So you might want to do some research before investing in a Chop Master.
 
I may have tge name wrong but I think it was Gary Johnson from Missouri who used to do incredible segmented pieces using a cheap miter saw. He tested the cut until it was right and then hot glued the table and the depth setting. So it can be done with a miter saw. I'm a fan of the Freud blades. I do have a forest blade but save it for the most demanding cuts.
 
I have a Sawstop, so smaller than 10” is not a real option .


@Richard Coers I agree the miter saw is not the best option. I don’t plan to use my miter saw, although a very good one. The chopmaster would be for the table saw, but unlikely I would invest $200+ starting out. I have made a wedge sled and have the wedges
 
I use the same 40T Forrest WW2 blades (standard kerf) that I use (or used) for flatwork. I am not a fan of thin kerf blades (there is a reason companies sell stiffener washers). The WW2 in my table saw works perfectly for segment work. I do get a wee bit of overhang material on some segments that can be pulled away with your finger nail leaving a minor chip out on a piece. That all gets turned off the rings anyhow so is irrelevant. There is no need for finer tooth blade for cutting segments.
 
William Rogers said:
I have a Sawstop, so smaller than 10” is not a real option .


@Richard Coers I agree the miter saw is not the best option. I don’t plan to use my miter saw, although a very good one. The chopmaster would be for the table saw, but unlikely I would invest $200+ starting out. I have made a wedge sled and have the wedges
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The Chopmaster has a negative rake on the teeth to be safely used on miter or radial arm saws. It is not designed for table saw usage, I can't imagine you needing that on a table saw. I suspect you will get some burning if you rip barrel staves. If you really need a polished cut, buy the Duraline Hi/AT. But I have been very happy with the WWII for over 40 years. If you don't believe me, call Forrest for the information.
 
William Rogers said:
@Jerry Bennett Thanks Jerry. I have already made my wedge sled and wedgies and I did buy SegmentPro software. That will be another learning process as is segmenting. Right now I am trying to clear out my shop queens (started, but not finished) and a few specialty turnings. I am getting tired of processing logs and have a lot of board stock and a decent amount of exotic stock to start with. Will do some with walnut and maple to get a feel before using the exotic wood.
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William, with the tools and technology available now segmenting is a lot more fun. Less worry about getting the joints right and more about doing fun creations.
 
I know the Chopmaster is designed for miter saws, but some also put them in table saws for segmenting. I don’t see much operational difference using a sliding miter saw as to use a table saw with a wedge sled. I had a Forest WWII blade, but have since changed to Carbide Processors World Best Blades. I have the Worlds Best combination and glue line ripping blades. I sold the Forest blade as I prefer the Worlds Best blade. Not saying one is better, just my preference. The Duraline blade is $300+ and the comparable Worlds Best blade is close 1/2 that price and makes it an easy decision for me.

What I am looking for is what blade those that do segmenting use. In particular thin kerf vs. regular kerf. What brands and styles.
 
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i know there are a lot of different ways os doing things, i have been making large segmented vessels for about 8 years now and i use a 90 tooth Diablo blade on my table saw and a wedgie sled, the Diablo blades stay sharp a long time and give a great finish, not saying this is the best way, it just what works for me
 
Following along as I’m getting started on the segmenting journey myself.

To add to the discussion, do most of you use one blade for ripping and one for cross cutting, or the same for both?
 
For a 10" tablesaw I would recommend a full thickness high angle top bevel blade with a low or negative rake angle. They are designed specifically for clean crosscuts as opposed to a general purpose blade. All the major manufacturers make good industrial quality blades, you just need to choose the correct design to get optimum results for your application.

I have the 12" version of this blade Amana melamine blade for crosscutting veneered panels and solid wood on my sliding table saw and it is at least as good as the Forrest Duraline Hi-ATB for much less $ (I have both). Thin kerf blades are less stable and only a high end mitersaw like those made by Omga or CTD will do as good a job as a decent tablesaw with a sled.
 
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Steve Saah said:
Following along as I’m getting started on the segmenting journey myself.

To add to the discussion, do most of you use one blade for ripping and one for cross cutting, or the same for both?
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Me, it all depends on what I am doing. If I am cutting plywood, or making finish cuts on cross-cuts (show faces of face frames, for example) I probably switch over to a high tooth count crosscut blade (I don't use plywood enough to need a dedicated plywood blade) , if I am doing glue-ups, I have a specialized glue-line rip blade, when I am doing joinery, chances are I have a FTB flat top bevel blade installed for clean square corners on grooves, rabbets and dados.. But 8 times out of ten, I'll just have a general purpose Diablo blade. Lastly I still have a couple of Combination blades that I will use when I an trimming up or otherwise breaking down rough cut lumber and finish of the cut don't matter (so if I happen to hit a nail or staple in the wood, a little damage to a tooth or two is no big deal)

So - short of it is, for the most part a simple combination or general purpose blade does most of my cutting, but when I have a specific type of material or cuts where the fit and finish off off-the-saw cuts will be important, I'll take the time to change out to a dedicated blade for a specific purpose. It would not be unusual for me to change blades 5 or 6 times in the course of a few hours of a project. Most expensive blade I have is the CMT tools Flat Top Bevel blade (and it's my only 1/8 kerf blade either) all the rest are thin kerf (which is recommended for my little Skil tablesaw.)
 
i use that Diablo blade on my saw for everything, at one time i did change blades for ripping, cross cut, and plywood but i never saw much of a difference in the cut or life of the blade, so i just cut with one blade until it starts getting dull and then get a new one, again... just my 2 cents
 
Steve Saah said:
To add to the discussion, do most of you use one blade for ripping and one for cross cutting, or the same for both?
Click to expand...
If I have more than a couple of boards to rip I put on a real rip blade and the splitter goes on, especially important with thicker stock. Any board that shows there might be stress such as a knot or swirl I'll put on that rip blade with splitter.

The bargain budget blade for segmenting is this one.
Diablo 7-1/4 inch 60 tooth blade
I have a whole stable of high dollar 10" blades and the Diablo is just as good or better than most. With segmenting your making small crosscuts normally in pretty easy to cut wood. I think that takes the thin kerf concern out of the discussion. I also use the Diablo for cutting veneer with a sled.

Full disclosure. Most of the time I use a highly modified Hammon Glider sliding table saw with a 60 tooth 8-1/2" Diablo blade. It has no equal.
 
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