Well I got my tablesaw sled to work good now - I think. I have been cutting segments and doing the 1/2 circle method. The problem with my 1/2 circles is that there is about a 1/16-1/8 gap when I go to glue the 1/2's together. This is an even gap across - I'm not sure what this means or how to solve it other than sanding until they meet.
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Segmented Turning Help
- Thread starter jeffnreno
- Start date
If I understand your issue, the gap is at the inside of the segments when the halves are goined. If so, you can use a sander or table saw to straighten both to get a good joint. Or, are you refering to the diameter of your half rings? If so then the joints of your half rings are not consistant. The issue could be in your glue up process and not the accuracy of the cut wood. The above mentioned book, The Art of Segmented turning is a must for anyone interested in segmentation. I also found Kevin Neely's site, www.turned wood.com was alot of help. Happy turning!
Walt
Walt
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sound like the angles are not accurate. If the gap is on the inside of the semi circle the mitre angle is too big, and outside is too small.
if you are making a ring - first cut 1/4 the number of segments required from scrap and test them - put them together in the corner of an accurate square - which should be 90 degrees - again if the gap is on the inside increase the mitre gauge angle.
if you are making a ring - first cut 1/4 the number of segments required from scrap and test them - put them together in the corner of an accurate square - which should be 90 degrees - again if the gap is on the inside increase the mitre gauge angle.
Richard Baker
RIP
Jeff,
If the "gap is even" all the way across the diameter, your tablesaw blade is probably not perfectly vertical (perpendicular to the surface of the sled). For angular mismatches, in addition to previous suggestions, your can use yet another sled to make a straight cut across each half ring so they will "match up". Remove only a few thousandths at a time until you get a full straight cut across both ends of half ring. If you remove too much, the resulting rings will be somewhat oval shaped. I use a piece of paper (.004") to gage the cut.
If the "gap is even" all the way across the diameter, your tablesaw blade is probably not perfectly vertical (perpendicular to the surface of the sled). For angular mismatches, in addition to previous suggestions, your can use yet another sled to make a straight cut across each half ring so they will "match up". Remove only a few thousandths at a time until you get a full straight cut across both ends of half ring. If you remove too much, the resulting rings will be somewhat oval shaped. I use a piece of paper (.004") to gage the cut.
Texian said:
Could we see a picture of your sled you use to do this?
GA Darling
Richard Baker
RIP
GA,
Have no picture, but it's just a board about 8" wide with two straight, parallel sides, and some clamp blocks to hold a half ring in place. Board should be flat, of uniform thickness. Cut a strip of "gage paper" (mine is .004" thick) slightly narrower than the sled board thickness. Lock the rip fence and secure the paper against it with the edge of the board. The board is now parallel to the fence and .004" away from it. Place half ring on the board, against the rip fence and clamp in place. The half ring now extends .004" beyond edge of the board. Turn board end for end, position rip fence at exact width of the sled board, and make the cut. You have removed .004" of some of the half ring ends and none of the sled board. Check half ring ends to see that you got a full cut on both ends. If so, the ends should be flat and coplanar. If not, repeat. I like an 80 tooth carbide blade for this, but it's not essential. Hope this helps.
Have no picture, but it's just a board about 8" wide with two straight, parallel sides, and some clamp blocks to hold a half ring in place. Board should be flat, of uniform thickness. Cut a strip of "gage paper" (mine is .004" thick) slightly narrower than the sled board thickness. Lock the rip fence and secure the paper against it with the edge of the board. The board is now parallel to the fence and .004" away from it. Place half ring on the board, against the rip fence and clamp in place. The half ring now extends .004" beyond edge of the board. Turn board end for end, position rip fence at exact width of the sled board, and make the cut. You have removed .004" of some of the half ring ends and none of the sled board. Check half ring ends to see that you got a full cut on both ends. If so, the ends should be flat and coplanar. If not, repeat. I like an 80 tooth carbide blade for this, but it's not essential. Hope this helps.
Jeff, I’m not sure I completely understand your problem. Do your segments form a complete circle with tight joints when you dry fit them together? If not, then obviously your angles are inaccurate and your sled miter needs to be tweaked. If they fit together dry, but then after gluing the halves together, they than don’t fit very close, then you have a problem with your clamping method.
Constructing segmented rings is a lot more than cutting the correct angles. For a segmented turning to really good look, the vertical seams must also line up. When major modifications are required to fit the half-rings together, you will essentially be constructing an oval ring. Sure this can be “trued up†on the lathe, but the effect is, the distance between seams will not be consistent. The rings need to be as close as possible to “perfectly round†before they ever go on the lathe. Good luck with your adventure into segmented turning.
Constructing segmented rings is a lot more than cutting the correct angles. For a segmented turning to really good look, the vertical seams must also line up. When major modifications are required to fit the half-rings together, you will essentially be constructing an oval ring. Sure this can be “trued up†on the lathe, but the effect is, the distance between seams will not be consistent. The rings need to be as close as possible to “perfectly round†before they ever go on the lathe. Good luck with your adventure into segmented turning.
I found using a thicker table say blade instead of aa thin kerf blade helped my joints as well.
Well I checked my set up again and it looks like my sled is not exact - so this weekend I'll be working on the sled some more. I have gotten some nice rings with some disk sanding - it would be nice to be able to get rings that require less work after they are cut.