Just curious John, how do you go about constructing that small of a skew? Just superheat the tip and then flatten and anneal? How much do you leave hanging out from the handle? (Just thinking about flex)
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Sharpening a skew
- Thread starter Ross Cockfield
- Start date
I use a curve as demoed by Alan Lacer. I’ll have to review Richard’s curve design to compare. Im much like you Odie, I dont use a skew much, and found the curved skew worked best for me.
I grind it free hand on a platform set to the angle, ~20 deg, bevel ~ 1-1/2 x material thickness.
I have some that are straight across, and some that are kind of straight but with some thing like a 1/4 round profile on the down/angled back part, if that makes sense. I do a lot of peeling cuts when roughing out, and wouldn't want a full 1 inch of metal in the wood, preferring a gentle curve to straight across. I do need to spend more time with the skew.
robo hippy
robo hippy
Doug,
Alan's skew has a straight section at the end with the long point, and then a regular radius curve. Maybe 30% flat, 70% curve. As you know Alan's come in 2 sizes: smallish and ginormous.
Richard's skew is all radius curve. It also has relieved corners where the tool hits the tool rest when doing beads and coves, which is really nice if you have a cast iron tool rest. I think Alan's are relieved as well. I'm not sure of availability of Richard's skews, but the 1" size is my favorite skew.
Alan's skew has a straight section at the end with the long point, and then a regular radius curve. Maybe 30% flat, 70% curve. As you know Alan's come in 2 sizes: smallish and ginormous.
Richard's skew is all radius curve. It also has relieved corners where the tool hits the tool rest when doing beads and coves, which is really nice if you have a cast iron tool rest. I think Alan's are relieved as well. I'm not sure of availability of Richard's skews, but the 1" size is my favorite skew.