I have a rinkon 8" slow speed grinder came with 60 grit and 120 grit wheels. Thinking of getting at least one cbn wheel doesn't anyone have recommendations? What's the finest grit I should consider? Mostly bowl turning.
Thanks. That's what I was wondering about just how fine for a longer lasting sharpening. Seem like the 120 gets dull in about 15 minutes. Does there 600 last longer?There are other threads on this if you search! I would recommend a 180 grit if you only have one cbn wheel. I sharpen scrapers, bedan, parting tools, gouges all on 180 grit. I touch up my bowl gouges on a 600cbn wheel several times in between each trip to the 180 grit.
Mine is a 1hp but im surely very similar. I was thinking of keeping the 120 and going with a finer cbn but wasn't debating if that was the right choice.I probably have the same grinder if it's 1/2 hp. I replaced one wheel with a 180 grit cbn like was recommended by Darryn and then I left the coarse friable one on for now because I have used it to do some reshaping/re-purposing for different experiments. I bought an aluminum wheel because that's what people said for lightness with a 1/2 hp.. I'm no expert though.
Keep in mind that the surface of a 12" blank may be going 30 mph. In 15 minutes, the edge of your gouge will have cut through 39,000 feet of wood. There's no benefit in trying to stretch out the time your edge 'lasts', as it will be dull long before 15 minutes are up in that scenario.Thanks. That's what I was wondering about just how fine for a longer lasting sharpening. Seem like the 120 gets dull in about 15 minutes. Does there 600 last longer?
Wow never even considered that. That being said arr the higher end tools worth it or area the cheaper tools well sharpened a better choice?Keep in mind that the surface of a 12" blank may be going 30 mph. In 15 minutes, the edge of your gouge will have cut through 39,000 feet of wood. There's no benefit in trying to stretch out the time your edge 'lasts', as it will be dull long before 15 minutes are up in that scenario.
Experienced turners understand this and sharpen more often than newbies. I'm a cheapskate and it's hard for me to swallow, but as my good friend always said, "Turning tools are disposables, just like sandpaper."
IMO depends where you are in your turning journey. As this is under “getting started”, I’ll assume you are early on. Over time each turner will typically use a few tools (2-4 maybe) to do most of the cutting, but those few tools wont be the same for everyone - ex: some may use a skew a lot, I rarely do. Depends on what they make and how they make them.Wow never even considered that. That being said arr the higher end tools worth it or area the cheaper tools well sharpened a better choice?
Like @Doug Freeman said tools you want to have will varyWow never even considered that. That being said arr the higher end tools worth it or area the cheaper tools well sharpened a better choice?
In my experience the 180 grit seems to last longer. The 600 grit is a bit finer edge and helps with getting less tear out on softer woods. The real reason to touch up with the 600 grit is that it takes less steel off of the gouge than the 180. I usually sharpen up with the 180 grit to start and then keep touching up with the 600 often while turning a piece. It may just be in my mind, but I feel like my tool works well and will last longer that way.Thanks. That's what I was wondering about just how fine for a longer lasting sharpening. Seem like the 120 gets dull in about 15 minutes. Does there 600 last longer?
Really appreciate the perspective. I will try out some different bowl grinds. I have only tried with the ellsworth so far.IMO depends where you are in your turning journey. As this is under “getting started”, I’ll assume you are early on. Over time each turner will typically use a few tools (2-4 maybe) to do most of the cutting, but those few tools wont be the same for everyone - ex: some may use a skew a lot, I rarely do. Depends on what they make and how they make them.
The advantage of the better, more expensive tools is edge holding (due to the different steel - m42, v10, etc). Cheaper tools (bens best from psi is my recommendation) allows the inexperienced to learn sharpening and develop their methods and not have so much invested in tools that end up not seeing much use.
Particularly with bowl gouges, where there are many combinations of grinds and flute design, cheaper tools enable experimentation and experience with these combinations to determine what works best for them, and not grind away as many $’s.
When the turner determines what tools get used up due to use (vs grinding them away), get a few expensive tools. They dont make you a better turner, the edge just lasts longer reducing resharpening. Those cheaper tools will continue to perform just fine for limited use.