Show us your tool handles!

[John Whitley]

In the spirit of similar threads which focus on other aspects of our shops and working setups, here's a thread to show off the handles you've made. A lot of the work shown here are our "gallery pieces", wherever they actually end up. But sometimes good turnings – our shop tools, kitchen utensils, and so on – go unsung. I'd love to hear a little about your favorites, perhaps why you like it, what makes it work well, or anything else you'd like to share. Form AND function are all fair game!

I'll go first. The larger handle in the first photo is the first handle I made, using an Alan Lacer burnisher kit. The smaller tool is a small-diameter burnisher I made later, using an inverted Dremel carbide cutter bit I received from Eric Lofstrom at a workshop. (To install, you just screw the bit into the handle!)



Here's my most recent addition, just a few days old. I've been putting a lot of time into learning skew work in recent months, and wanted to dial in the handle. I've come to realize that my prior skew handle was just too heavy. The collet tool holder is from Robust, the wood is bubinga finished with Hassui Ceramic. I added the custom brass ferrule, cut from brass tube, cleaned up on the lathe using a three-jaw chuck, and sealed with Everbrite's ProtectaClear.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Nothing fancy, I use shovel handles.

 

[Richard Coers]

As far as I'm concerned, the large Sorby wood handles are close to perfection for me as a pattern. I've made steel and aluminum handles, but hate the feel in the winter.

 

[hockenbery]

These are my bowl gouge handles - sapeli scrap given to our club
No finish, no sanding top one is newer


Not just a handle
My cherry mallet doesn’t look too bad for something turned around 1995

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

This is the style I like for my wooden handles, but now use mostly metal so I can break the too down for travel. In walnut.

 

[Odie]

I buy my tools with stock proprietary wood handles. Just about all of these stock handles are very usable, as I adapt to their shape easily. The one thing I do to all of them, is wrap them with hockey tape. This gives me a very good non-slip surface that I like and have grown accustomed to.....it has become a very strong preference of mine.

-o-

 

[John Whitley]

As far as I'm concerned, the large Sorby wood handles are close to perfection for me as a pattern. I've made steel and aluminum handles, but hate the feel in the winter.

Agreed, they're nice. I think many of the established tool/handle makers have good patterns. On that point, I took note of Robust's stock handle profile at Matt Monaco's PTSW workshop back in August. That became the baseline for my first long handle, and form we see on so many tool racks. Chris Hoehle has a helpful video on long handle turning, and a point he makes well is to repeatedly take the handle off the lathe and try it. This led to some subtle but very nice-in-hand tweaks to the basic shape, from "almost" to "oh, yes THAT'S it".

 

[John Whitley]

I buy my tools with stock proprietary wood handles. Just about all of these stock handles are very usable, as I adapt to their shape easily. The one thing I do to all of them, is wrap them with hockey tape. This gives me a very good non-slip surface that I like and have grown accustomed to.....it has become a very strong preference of mine.

Nice! In other domains, I've used tennis racket grip tape, or bicycle handlebar tape, for similar "off-label" reasons.

This is the style I like for my wooden handles, but now use mostly metal so I can break the too down for travel. In walnut.

I'm definitely at the "drinking from the firehose" point of my turning experience, taking classes, traveling to workshops, and so on. I've also been all about modular handle setups as a result.

 

[Tom Gall]

@odie And the different colors should also help with tool recognition - once you learn which is which.

 

[Tom Albrecht]

I was strictly a spindle turner for years. I like to make my own handles and usually replace use the stock handles right away. You can see some of mine below.

 

[Michael Anderson]

If I’m buying a new style of tool I usually buy it handled. Just so I can get a feel of what the manufacturer sees fit. If I’m buying a tool that I’m familiar with, I usually buy unhandled and then end up procrastinating making a handle for a while. The last one I made was for a 3/4” Thompson bottom bowl gouge. Handle is Canarywood, has a slight taper in the middle and then is sized to fit my hand, and is 22” long (which makes the whole tool a javelin lol). Good and hefty though, so can take overhangs like a champ.

 

[Barry Larson]

I've bought a few tools unhandled over the years, some more than 40 years ago. I generally like the feel of the Robert Sorby handles so my recent efforts copy those. First picture shows a 40 plus year old effort at the top and a Robert Sorby handle at the bottom with some of my shameless copies in the middle. Second picture is of two headstock drawbars for MT chucks (1/4 and 5/16 inch) and a brass knockout rod for the headstock. Last picture is of two more tool handles, two hand drills and a re-handled awl that my dad made years ago from a rat-tailed file that just need a new handle. It has sentimental value so it lives in the pocket of my shop apron.
Cheers,
Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!

 

[Adrian Wilson]

I love making handles, and I have a lineup among my 100 cabinetmaker's chisels of tools needing new handles. For turning tools, most of mine still have the original manufacturer's handles, but eventually I will probably replace them. Makes sense to me that a turner makes their own handles, but that said I am shopping for a 'factory' handle, for the longer bowl tools I will be purchasing soon, to make removing the tool for sharpening easier. I've been making some tools, and those are all getting handles made by me.

Handle broke on this old Oland tool, so it got a new one based on vintage Berg handles, but stretched by 6". I like it a lot. Next handle will be a Berg shape as close as I can get to the original Berg dimensions.



These are small tools, made by me.... 1/4" Vortex, 1/4" point tool, 3/8" round skew. I kinda like straight cylinder handles; not exciting, but feel good to me. I have a couple/few more to make in this size so I am colour-coding the handles as I go.


Bedan made from a good old screwdriver.



Love handles. LOVE them.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

Here are some handles I made recently for some great NOS giant carving gouges I was given. The brass ferrules are made from gas compression fittings, the copper hoops on the pounding end are plumbing unions (much stronger alloy than copper pipe)..

 

[Michael Perez]

I've bought a few tools unhandled over the years, some more than 40 years ago. I generally like the feel of the Robert Sorby handles so my recent efforts copy those. First picture shows a 40 plus year old effort at the top and a Robert Sorby handle at the bottom with some of my shameless copies in the middle. Second picture is of two headstock drawbars for MT chucks (1/4 and 5/16 inch) and a brass knockout rod for the headstock. Last picture is of two more tool handles, two hand drills and a re-handled awl that my dad made years ago from a rat-tailed file that just need a new handle. It has sentimental value so it lives in the pocket of my shop apron.
Cheers,
Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!

Nice, just curiosity what are the handles with Jacob chuck for ?

 

[Michael Perez]

These are my first handles. First picture from diamond point and beading tool I made. Second picture from the handle of my Robert sorby beading and parting.

 

[Michael Perez]

V

Here are some handles I made recently for some great NOS giant carving gouges I was given. The brass ferrules are made from gas compression fittings, the copper hoops on the pounding end are plumbing unions (much stronger alloy than copper pipe)..

View attachment 56835

Very nice work I like the woods, the ferrules and the finish of your wood.

 

[Barry Larson]

Nice, just curiosity what are the handles with Jacob chuck for ?

Hi Michael:
The handles with the Jacobs chucks are to hold bits for drilling gauge holes in things I want to know where to stop turning to avoid the dreaded "funnel effect"!
Cheers.
Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!

 

[Michael Perez]

Hi Michael:
The handles with the Jacobs chucks are to hold bits for drilling gauge holes in things I want to know where to stop turning to avoid the dreaded "funnel effect"!
Cheers.
Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!

Thank you, funnel effect is very nice.
nice Sunday

 

[Lance Mirrer]

Nice handles. Issues with posting pics. Trying to improve

 

[Dave Landers]

I mostly use the handles that come on the tools. Most of the time, if I'm making a temporary or one-use tool, I'll just grab a handle from that drawer of ancient garage-sale tools I picked up ages ago.
But I do make handles, mostly for home made "keeper" tools - here's a few:

Top to bottom:
A small pointy scraper (point tool maybe) made from an "aircraft" style drill bit. Cherry, copper pipe ferrule.
A small 1/4" tenon sizer tool - sharpened one side of a wrench, scrapes a tenon and measures it at the same time. Cherry, copper pipe ferrule. Cut off the other end of the wrench and epoxied it into the handle.
A jacobs chuck for hand drilling. Found a bolt that fit the threads in an old chuck, epoxied that into the handle. Handle is probably walnut.
The 3/8" bit I use for depth-drilling hollow forms. Ash, I think. Bit is epoxied in. I like the large handle for grip. The o-ring on the drill is a depth gauge.

 

[Barry Larson]

Hi Dave:
I like your tenon sizer handle - I'm going to "borrow" that one!
Cheers.
Barry W. Larson
Calgary, Alberta, Canada eh!

 

[Vincent Vogel]

Here are some handles I have made. Like others stated I have some Sorby tools and they are my favorite handle so my homemade ones are Sorbyish, I like to have a slightly different handle on each tool then I learn which handle is which tool. I hate metal handles. The hammer handle was an interesting multi axis turning. Some of these tools are homemade some are bought without handles.

 

[James Seyfried]

I haven't made many, I made the bottom three. The top one was made by Michael Hosaluk at a club demo, not sure if it even took him a minute to make it.

 

[robo hippy]

After many years of turning, I have settled on plain and simple straight cylinders. No ornamentation, no bumps and humps. I do like larger diameter handles, like 1 1/2 inch or so.

robo hippy

 

[Michael Perez]

I haven't made many, I made the bottom three. The top one was made by Michael Hosaluk at a club demo, not sure if it even took him a minute to make it.

View attachment 57027

Very nice ,excellent always like that handle insert Hosaluk also like Robust one.
cheers

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

The jig to hold the launching handle blank for turning the grip - finished handle with the string wound on the top ready to launch​

 

[Michael Perez]

View attachment 57058View attachment 57059

The jig to hold the launching handle blank for turning the grip - finished handle with the string wound on the top ready to launch​

So nice, thank you for sharing it will be great see it in action.
greetings

 

[Neil S]

I used to make handles for my turning tools, but go for much lighter and removable handles for my larger tools nowadays.

Buloke handle, turned from very hard and heavy wood...



Here's a light one, made with thin alumina tube, Clewes quick release and foam wrap...



And for pretty, here's a multi-axis turned handle for a high end Japanese kitchen knife...

 

[JeffSmith]

I prefer removable handles - makes sharpening an easier process. I started using the adapters made by Michael Hosaluk a while back. They’ve become my go to when I need a new handle. These shown are from madrone and walnut mostly.
I understand that it’s pretty simple to turn these adapters from aluminum bar stock, perhaps that will be my next adventure…

 

[John Whitley]

I understand that it’s pretty simple to turn these adapters from aluminum bar stock, perhaps that will be my next adventure…

Along the same lines, I've got the materials lined up to turn a set-screw type adapter from brass. I'd been thinking to do that for the skew handle I posted at the top of the thread, but decided to go with Robust's collet holder after seeing one in action at a workshop by Matt Monaco. So now I'm waiting for the right handle project to reveal itself before I go that route.

 

[Adrian Wilson]

On brass ferrules, I found a great tip in an old thread here, from Bob Mezzatesta ..... it's a pex female sweat adapter. Cut off the barbed part, and you have a beautiful fairly thick ferrule with a lovely concentric hole. Not sure yet if it is thick enough to thread, but for a tool that is going in the handle permanently, I like it. Made one, now just have to turn a handle to put it on.

 

[John Whitley]

On brass ferrules, I found a great tip in an old thread here, from Bob Mezzatesta ..... it's a pex female sweat adapter.

That’s a nice approach. I ended up just getting various bits of tubing, stainless and a little brass, as ferrule stock. A basic stainless-ready pipe cutter works great for both.

For the brass set-screw tool holder I mentioned, I’ll start with brass rod which I’ll drill out then turn.

 

[Odie]

For some of you who've been turning for awhile, you'll have used handles where the original steel is ground down so far that they've been retired. These wood tool handles can be repurposed to fit other turning tools. Now, for those of you who only want the best looking turning tools, this may not be a solution for you.......but, if you don't care what it looks like, and just want something that simply works.......this might be an idea you can use. The best part of this, is it's free and easy to do......because you'll already have everything you need to repurpose tool handles this way.

1. Remove old tool steel.
2. Remove old ferrule.
3. Bandsaw an "X" pattern into the end of the wood handle long enough so that the four pieces will flex.
4. Insert new, or repurposed tool steel into the handle.
5. Tighten hose clamp where the old ferrule was.



-o-

 

[Roger Wiegand]

I quite like using a short flare nut gas fitting for ferrules. The "short" version is about the right length. They come in all sizes you might need. You can thread it onto the wood if you like (I epoxy them as well), and it's easy to turn the corners off to make a nicely shaped ferrule.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I quite like using a short flare nut gas fitting for ferrules. The "short" version is about the right length. They come in all sizes you might need. You can thread it onto the wood if you like (I epoxy them as well), and it's easy to turn the corners off to make a nicely shaped ferrule.

View attachment 57438

I have done something similar using the adapter nut used to attach the tubing between the faucets and the shut off valve. The burnishing tools shown below have that method and the unfinished one shows what it looks like before the hex is turned off. I didn't use any epoxy bet it was all tropical hardwoods and the square blank was held in a scroll chuck as I threaded the fitting on.

 

[Duane Dea]

Hi, I'm new to wood turning and this group. Thank you all for sharing your various pictures, as they give me a glimpse of your shops, tools, organization and preferences. As I turn, I think back on those images for inspiration!
Cheers,
Duane

 

[Duane Dea]

Hi, I'm new to wood turning and this group. Thank you all for sharing your various pictures, as they give me a glimpse of your shops, tools, organization and preferences. As I turn, I think back on those images for inspiration!
Cheers,
Duane

 

[John Whitley]

Hi, I'm new to wood turning and this group. Thank you all for sharing your various pictures, as they give me a glimpse of your shops, tools, organization and preferences. As I turn, I think back on those images for inspiration!

Welcome Duane! I've also gotten a lot of inspiration from these threads, which is definitely what prompted me to start this one. And my heartfelt thanks to everyone who's participated in this thread!

There are a few of these "show us your shop" threads floating around. We probably need a pinned index thread for them all at this point.

A couple of examples, in case you haven't found them yet (and there are more):

Useful shop gadgets.....shop, and "evolving shop" photos......

Useful shop gadgets. Shop, and "evolving shop" photos. Lathe tidbits. Just thought I'd start a thread with photos of different shops, shop photos of "then and now"......along with photos of useful shop gadgets and lathe discussion. Any photos and/or "shop talk" is what's being sought in this...

www.aawforum.org

Shop "before and after" photos.....show us how your shop has changed.

Hoping to get some interest in a new kind of shop thread. I enjoy shop photos more than just about any other kind of thread.....because they serve to give ideas and inspiration. I am always totally amazed on how my own shop has changed over the years. I just wish I had some of those old...

www.aawforum.org

 

[John Whitley]

Ah, I missed a key one, linked below. Also, I'll add big kudos to @odie, who you'll note has been Instigator Number One for these things.

Photo thread.....show us your shop.

I've always loved seeing photos of other turner's shops......When I see these threads, they sometimes darn near always give me ideas! :) Sooooo, I guess me first, huh....... Here are a few from last April 2016. If this thread catches on, I'll go out and snap a few more current shop photos. (I...

www.aawforum.org