Show us your tool rack/cart

[Aaron Cheateaux]

Here's a few photos of a new gouge rack I built for tools using the bolster system found on SB Tools' and Ashley Hardwood's lines. It's a pretty simple design: 3/4" holes drilled with a 1/2" gap between each. I laid out slot lines tangent to the holes, chamfered them using a 1" shear cutting chamfer bit, then cut the slots with a handsaw. The rightmost hole is 7/8" to accommodate the 3/4" bottom bowl gouge. A test board showed that the 7/8" worked, but the chamfer centered and looked nicer on the 3/4" holes, so I only cut one that size.

I'm also building a second rack for handled tools, based on John Hebdon's design upthread. I'll post photos when that's Don great

Here's a few photos of a new gouge rack I built for tools using the bolster system found on SB Tools' and Ashley Hardwood's lines. It's a pretty simple design: 3/4" holes drilled with a 1/2" gap between each. I laid out slot lines tangent to the holes, chamfered them using a 1" shear cutting chamfer bit, then cut the slots with a handsaw. The rightmost hole is 7/8" to accommodate the 3/4" bottom bowl gouge. A test board showed that the 7/8" worked, but the chamfer centered and looked nicer on the 3/4" holes, so I only cut one that size.

I'm also building a second rack for handled tools, based on John Hebdon's design upthread. I'll post photos when that's done.

Great design! Timely as I am trying to figure out how to organize all my SB tools. What are you doing with the handles?

 

[John Whitley]

Great design! Timely as I am trying to figure out how to organize all my SB tools. What are you doing with the handles?

Thanks! For now, they‘ll just live in the “handled” tool rack, whether or not a tool is installed. I’m going to sit with that for a bit and see how I feel about it. It would be easy enough to whip up a dedicated handle rack, e.g.for horizontal storage of a few handles. AH handles could also sit vertically on 3/4” dowels, which would be another easy and elegant rack to make. But that doesn’t work for SB Tools handles, or if I turn my own at some point.

 

[Stan Pressner]

I just moved int my new shop, and am not at all sure if I will like the layout I have chosen, so I went with all french cleat walls and tool racks. For the moment, all are magnetic, including my SB bolster tools. We will see if I stick with that or not.

 

[Stan Pressner]

I just moved int my new shop, and am not at all sure if I will like the layout I have chosen, so I went with all french cleat walls and tool racks. For the moment, all are magnetic, including my SB bolster tools. We will see if I stick with that or not.

The SB handles are just in clips on the front, similar to the ones you would use for broom handles

 

[John Whitley]

Allright, assembly and installation all done! Here's another implementation of a rack after @John Hebdon's. This frees up a ton of drawer space in a big rolling workbench off camera to the left of the grinder, and makes all the tools vastly more accessible. Lots, lots more organization to be done. Next, I'm considering a metal pegboard setup akin to one posted in one of these threads, largely for storage and access to chucks and jaws.

 

[Phil Hamel]

Added another chuck and moved some of the tools around.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

A Craiglist find. Nearly new to the seller but he didn't need it. I've tried all kinds of storage systems but this works about the best for me, keeping everything in one place. If it's little, it lives up in the top section. If it's long and skinny, it's in the three drawers. Heavy and clunky, it's in the open bottom shelf. If it doesn't fit on this cart, I probably already own one or two and I don't need any more of them.

Actually, Harbor Freight's tool chests seem pretty good for a home shop with better prices than the pro tool dealer's versions. Make sure to measure your longest tools, first.

 

[Bob East]

Wow! impressive lathe carts and tool "collections".
Thought I'd contribute mine to the foray---way less invested in it and I used scraps--not the purtiest but functional (I'm the only one using my shop)
The wheels came from a defunct restaurant cart, they're big enough to roll it easily to the best location for each lathe (I have 3 and a nice sized shop). The black on the floor is rubber matting I bought at Tractor Supply--easier on me in my nearing senior years--can see it today 'cause I just cleaned up many cubic feet of shavings.
I periodically vacuum the bottom as needed--it holds other tool rests, pliers, sanders, and bowl steady.
Since I use both traditional and carbide tools, I gave a view from both sides. Chisels held by wall tool clamps from Wmart.

View attachment 7586View attachment 7587View attachment 7588

Some of your tools look like they're old golf clubs. Are modifying them for woodturning?
Thanks!
Bob East

 

[Bill Alston]

This is my tool rack. It’s made from 9mm plywood and just held together with wedges. No glue or screws.
Sadly it got filled up far too quickly so my other tools get stored wherever I can find a space.

 

[odie]

Things are always changing in my shop. Here's some updated photos (taken yesterday) of my current tool rack(s).

-o-

 

[Bill Blasic]

OK Odie top row right side two egg shaped what looks like sanded wood, what are those. Curious.

 

[odie]

OK Odie top row right side two egg shaped what looks like sanded wood, what are those. Curious.

Howdy Bill......

Those are a couple of scrapers with "bobbed" handles. As you can imagine, they are extremely difficult to manipulate, so have very limited use.

-o-

 

[Doug Freeman]

Things are always changing in my shop. Here's some updated photos (taken yesterday) of my current tool rack(s).

-o-

View attachment 61994

Curious why you have 2 of the Lee Valley burnishers? Apparently you like them better than hand held? Do you use the 5 or 10 deg or both?

 

[Alan Weinberg]

I bought these great tool holders from zkcreations.com. Zvi was good to work with. No affiliation.

Woodturning Tools Wall-Mounted Holder: Securely Holds 4 Tools with Built-In Magnets

Celebrate Craftsmanship with ZK Creations - Explore Our Unique Handcrafted Creations, Perfect for Gifting and Elevating Your Everyday Life.

zkcreations.com

Finally got my tools on the wall.

 

[odie]

Curious why you have 2 of the Lee Valley burnishers? Apparently you like them better than hand held? Do you use the 5 or 10 deg or both?

Hello Doug.....

When I bought my first Veritas burnisher tool about 20 years ago (+/-), the only post that was provided was the 10°, and it wasn't tall enough to burnish a 1/2" thick scraper.....of which I have several. I purchased the second Veritas burnisher, and these are now offered with two taller posts, the 10° and the 5°. I mainly use the 5° pin.

Since I had two of these Veritas burnishers, I mounted both.....so that I could get different distances from the fulcrum pin. This was accomplished by turning the other one around 180°. I overwhelmingly use the one on the left, as shown in the photo.....or, as it was originally intended.

Yes, I originally used a handheld burnisher to raise my formed burrs, and that will work......but, I've found that the Veritas, with it's fulcrum pin, allows much more leverage while forming a manually raised burr. This makes raising the burr much easier, as well as much quicker.

-o-

Veritas Scraper Burnisher for Turners - Lee Valley Tools

www.leevalley.com

 

[Bill Alston]

Odie, you (and I) seem to be one of the 10%? From what I’ve read online, the other 90% of turners that have tried the Veritas Burnisher think it either doesn’t work or not well enough to make it worthwhile.

Edit: I didn’t buy one, I just bought a 10° Veritas pin and made my own base.

 

[odie]

Odie, you (and I) seem to be one of the 10%? From what I’ve read online, the other 90% of turners that have tried the Veritas Burnisher think it either doesn’t work or not well enough to make it worthwhile.

Edit: I didn’t buy one, I just bought a 10° Veritas pin and made my own base.

Yep, Bill.....like anything woodturning, if you try something just once and form your opinions from that limited experience, then I can see why the 90%ers think the Veritas doesn't work. It does take a little time, effort, and experimentation to form great manually raised burrs!

After awhile, you learn to judge the burr by how it feels to your touch.


-o-

 

[Bill Alston]

I use a belt grinder and after finishing with an 800g belt I find it easy to put a sharp burr on with the Burnisher.

 

[odie]

I use a belt grinder and after finishing with an 800g belt I find it easy to put a sharp burr on with the Burnisher.

Interesting......

I'm using an 80gt wheel, then removing the ground burr with a 600gt flat diamond hone, just prior to using the Veritas.

I guess there's more than one way to skin the cat!

-o-

 

[Paul May]

Nothing special...just a wall mounted cabinet I built years ago. I put the other half on it when I transport the tools. Mostly Henry Taylor HSS (from a set years ago), Crown spindle gouge, and a 1/16" Sorby parting tool.

 

[Bill Alston]

Interesting......

I'm using an 80gt wheel, then removing the ground burr with a 600gt flat diamond hone, just prior to using the Veritas.

I guess there's more than one way to skin the cat!

-o-

After the 800g I use a flat 1000g diamond plate to remove the grinder burr. After burnishing the result seems to be a strong smooth burr that lasts quite well.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Odie, you (and I) seem to be one of the 10%? From what I’ve read online, the other 90% of turners that have tried the Veritas Burnisher think it either doesn’t work or not well enough to make it worthwhile.

Edit: I didn’t buy one, I just bought a 10° Veritas pin and made my own base.

I also have one. I won’t say its a must have, but with the leverage provided it does turn a larger burr. Its better than hand held, but each person has to decide if its worth the cost. Its worth getting one or both pins and making your own base as you did, Bill.

 

[robo hippy]

The thing about burnishing a burr on is that it actually takes very little pressure to do it. First time I saw one of the Veritas burnishers used, the guy was really reefing hard on it. I think I was just starting to use a burnisher. Now I use a small carbide rod, 3/16 diameter, and it works great for M42 and V10, and my card scrapers.

robo hippy

 

[Paul May]

Yep, Bill.....like anything woodturning, if you try something just once and form your opinions from that limited experience, then I can see why the 90%ers think the Veritas doesn't work. It does take a little time, effort, and experimentation to form great manually raised burrs!

After awhile, you learn to judge the burr by how it feels to your touch.


-o-

I also have one. I won’t say its a must have, but with the leverage provided it does turn a larger burr. Its better than hand held, but each person has to decide if its worth the cost. Its worth getting one or both pins and making your own base as you did, Bill.

The thing about burnishing a burr on is that it actually takes very little pressure to do it. First time I saw one of the Veritas burnishers used, the guy was really reefing hard on it. I think I was just starting to use a burnisher. Now I use a small carbide rod, 3/16 diameter, and it works great for M42 and V10, and my card scrapers.

robo hippy

I have had the Veritas burnisher for a long while and find it really useful. I can refresh a burr in seconds.

 

[odie]

I have had the Veritas burnisher for a long while and find it really useful. I can refresh a burr in seconds.

Like just about everything related to woodturning, the opinions will differ. Each person will have to make up his own mind about what information is useful to his own methods.

I find that a more prominent burr is more useful than less prominent burr, and the only way to do that, is to use more pressure to obtain it. The fulcrum pin and forming the burr on a carbide post makes that possible, without the effort that would be required to get the same burr using a hand held burnishing rod.

-o-

 

[Vincent Vogel]

Like just about everything related to woodturning, the opinions will differ. Each person will have to make up his own mind about what information is useful to his own methods.

I find that a more prominent burr is more useful than less prominent burr, and the only way to do that, is to use more pressure to obtain it. The fulcrum pin and forming the burr on a carbide post makes that possible, without the effort that would be required to get the same burr using a hand held burnishing rod.

-o-

Does the burr from the Veritas last longer than one from a hand held unit since it's more prominent?

 

[Bill Alston]

It’s still early days for me using this technique but it does appear to last longer. You can also go back to the burnisher a couple of times before resorting to the grinder.

 

[Gene Pitstick]

There are probably a hundred tools, but only the ones I use frequently are easily accessed. The rest are in drawers. The ones stored vertically in pvc, are only occasionally used, but the main tools are on the cart. I've found that it's important to keep tools away from where chips are likely to fly. That area should remain fairly sparse and easy to clean.

Odie, I spy with my eye a point tool in the first photo. Must be used a lot.

 

[odie]

Does the burr from the Veritas last longer than one from a hand held unit since it's more prominent?

Vincent,

That may be a debatable question, because it's been a couple of decades since I switched from a hand held burnisher to the Veritas tool. As I recall, my impression at that time, is the more prominent burr was more useful in the act of applying it to wood. Since that time, my methods have evolved considerably, so from a performance perspective, things there too, have evolved. If you could turn back the hands of time and ask me the same question twenty years ago, the answer might be different than the answer I give you today!

Odie, I spy with my eye a point tool in the first photo. Must be used a lot.

That is an old photo in post #27, and originally posted in 2014. I'm not identifying the pointed tool you refer to, Gene.....they all look like bowl gouges and scrapers, and none pointed. In post #290 the photos were taken only a couple days ago, and are more up to date.

 

[Adrian Wilson]

This is all still very much in progress, but this is my setup. My lathe stuff shares space with the rest of my woodworking shop.
I am in a tool acquiring phase, so more tools to come. The rack of smaller tools below are all made by me except for two.




When I installed dust collection behind the lathe, I lost the use of the shelf for tools, so I built this swiveling tool holder..... it's a prootype, just clamped in place, until I decided if I liked it. I DO like it, a lot, so it's staying.



It's a stupid gambrel roof that starts pitching at 4', so vertical wall space is hard to come by. I come from the cabinetshop world, and some of the big European sliding tablesaws like Altendorf use caddies to carry tools.... so I made one for my lathe. More tools and chucks planned for this. Works very well though. It is right there at my back when I am working.



And this is my sharpening station, just to the right of the lathe. Still in progress; there is a bank of drawers going in on the left hand side. Everything here will evolve.