Signing pieces

[Tony K. in NC]

Up to this point i have been using a pyrography pen to sign my pieces but have a hard time making it an actuall signature, ussually i end up just using block letters. I am wanting more of a signature, i know this sounds corny but i feel it makes it more like an artist signing his work than a 3rd grader putting his name on his class craft project. My question is does anyone have any suggestions or warnings. I am thinking fine point sharpie between coats of finish hoping to minimize bleeding.

Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[Charlie Knighton]

signing

Tony,

it was suggested by Bart Castleberry to use a calligraphy pen from Zig to sign pieces. its non-bleeding and has two different sized points. i have used Bart's idea for over 2 years and am very happy. look in wally world in the craft section next to pillows, towels, threads, and such. also can buy different colors than black online.

pigment ink- acid-free--archival quality-lightfast-waterproof-fade proof-
non-bleeding

Zig pen manufactured by Kuretake Co

i believe your sharpie will bleed

 

[Clint5699]

Signing with Sharpies

Hi Tony;
Sharpies work great, however you must be careful with lacquer type finishes such a Deft. They do not penetrate the Deft finish or even write well on top of it, also Deft will lift-smear the ink. I have used them successfully under Deft by first covering the signature on raw wood with a light coat of urethane or Danish Oil. Just need something to cover and protect it from lacquer finishes.

Some nice work in your web page gallery, good luck with this.

 

[CBSears]

Tony,

it was suggested by Bart Castleberry to use a calligraphy pen from Zig to sign pieces. its non-bleeding and has two different sized points. i have used Bart's idea for over 2 years and am very happy. look in wally world in the craft section next to pillows, towels, threads, and such. also can buy different colors than black online.

pigment ink- acid-free--archival quality-lightfast-waterproof-fade proof-
non-bleeding

Zig pen manufactured by Kuretake Co

i believe your sharpie will bleed

Charlie, is that the Zig "posterman" pen? Thx...

 

[Paul M. Kaplowitz]

I use a branding iron with my signature on it. There are adds in the journals for companies that manufacture them.

 

[Don Peek]

I use a high speed air drill. Tried almost everything else and this seams to be the best for me.
Don

 

[john lucas]

I've been using burning and the Dremel engraver. I use mostly the dremel. It does take some practice to learn to write with it. What I like about them is they signature can be very subtle or you can rub gold or black wax into it and make it more dramatic. On my hand mirrors the signature shows and I wanted to make it subtle but I think I may go the other route and kind of shout out who it's made by.
One of my good friends uses The Zig Mellenium .005 or the Pigma Micron by Sakura Color to write on his. I like his signatures a lot and I'm going to pick up one of those and give it a try. I had trouble before with my finishes damaging the signature and I think I used an archival pen but don't remember what it was.

 

[waltben]

I used fine tip Sharpies for several years, but started using a very fine and small knife shaped burning tip early last year. It works quite well when very hot, using mostly down strokes, and I very little pressure. When trying to write my signature, pressing at all will cause the wood grain to make the tip wander where I don't want it to.

 

[Odie]

Although I am not signing my bowls with my signature, I am using a woodburning pen with a flat point held at an angle for cursive script. This works very well for my purposes, and will do well for your signature.

The name of the unit is "Detail Master" and is available from Woodcraft.

ooc

 

[Owen Lowe]

Lightfastness is the greatest concern that I've seen with markers. I used both Sharpie brand and Lumocolor permanent markers in the past and both have noticeable fading over 5 or more years. (These signatures are not subject to direct sunlight.)

I now use a Dremel engraver ($30) which I find easy to make an actual signature.

Owen

 

[Steve Worcester]

I use a fine tip Sharpie on the bare wood and then spray finish over it. If you are using a wipe on finish, it may bleed.

 

[Keith T.]

HI Tony, You can find archival pens in various sizes at any art store. These are permanent, and can be lacquered over without running or smearing. The line produced is crisp and fine.

 

[Charlie Knighton]

Zig pen

CBSears

Charlie, is that the Zig "posterman" pen? Thx...

i got the Zig calligraphy black pen from wally world

i got the Zig writer in red online just seach Zig pen, not sure what site, but here is a site for different colors of the Zig calligraphy pen

http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=zig pen

that site has Zig calligraphy pens in bulk and singlerly in different colors, at the bottom is black, next page starts the colors

 

[robert davis]

i use sharpie after first thincoat of deft sanding sealer..before any other coats. will work, no bleeding

 

[David Wilkins]

After turning for seven years, having work published, winning competitions, and a peoples choice award I have never really signed my work. I think I did sign two bowls that went to a exhibition, because the coordinator chastised me about it on more than one occasion. I have also been told that should I want to enter a juried provincial group of artists I would have to. I'm not the artsy type, and don't sell much work. Some of my pieces don't have an up or down, a signature would destroy that effect.

It all stems from my lousy penmanship. Thinking about burning.

 

[Joe Greiner]

I suggest a little more practice with the pyrography pen, on your actual signature. It's more durable, and if it's good enough for Sam Maloof, it's good enough for me and you. Studies have found that we use the same "handwriting" on chalkboards as we use on paper, even though entirely different muscle sets are employed. You'll need to work slower, of course, and also compensate for drift by the wood grain, or fit the lettering within the grain. The block letters are OK for species and year.

If your actual signature is unreadable, you might consider some slight revisions, regardless of the medium.

Joe

 

[Nate Hawkes]

Ditto the last statement. I got a Cub woodburner as a present this christmas, and had to practice a good bit before my signature looked like my signature. I got the adapter with the different shaped tips, and ended up after trying several different shapes to use the thinnest wire it came with, and make a very narrow loop, on about half power. It works quite well for me. Different woods are harder than others; open grain can make it hard to control the pen's tip with a light touch. Also, burn the signature before finishing. Burning over varnish can leave a pronounced ridge on the borders of the letters, which kinda feels cool, but IMHO detracts from the bowls' finish.

 

[cwearing]

The Sharpie retractable ultra fine point (various colors available) used on raw wood followed by the finish of choice are great.

 

[Bob Boettcher]

I generally use a drafting pen with India ink. Koh-i-noor brand (probably mis-spelled). I don't do an actual signature, but rather print my initials, so not exactly what you want.

I always put some finish or sealer on first to avoid bleed, and always at least one coat over the top. I have never had it bleed.

Bob