Signing Work

[Mike Maffitt]

I'm sure this has come up before, but I wanted to know what type of pen people use to sign their work. At shows I see very fine lined signatures that look great. I've been using one of the new fine sharpies but I am not totally satisfied with my results.
any ideas or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Mike - I use a cheap dremel vibrating engraver to sign, using a light touch.

On turnings that have a film finish that won't let the wood absorb the ink, I then rub the signature with a metallic pigment art marker, wiping away any excess from the finish. The pigment ink only remains in the signature and leaves a subtle or bold signature depending on the color marker used.

On turnings that don't have a film (e.g. just some kind of oil and / or wax) I don't attempt to color the signature. It just makes a mess.


Ed

 

[John King]

Pigma Micron

I use Pigma Micron archival ink pens. They can be purchased in a variety of ink colors and line widths. Check them out at http://www.sakuraofamerica.com/Pen-Archival. - John

 

[Odie]

You may want to consider getting a woodburning pen. I've had this one for over 20yrs, and it's still going strong! I originally got it from CSUSA......they look different now, but are essentially the same unit.

otis of cologne

 

[Bill Blasic]

I have tried burning, vibrating, and the Sharpie. Burning and vibrating are just not neat enough and the Sharpie ink runs with some finishes. I am now using the Pigma Micron with excellant results and have not had any of the ink run with any finish I've used so far.

 

[Barbara Gill]

I burn my name in with a very small ball tip. Using the ball has made the results much smoother. It takes awhile to find the best heat setting; as with anything else, practice is a good idea. The burning is done before applying the finish.

 

[Greg_Haugen]

Mike,
I used to use a very fine tipped archival pen. A while ago though I received some feedback from a gallery/gift shop I sell at. A customer had mentioned they would like my door stops better if they didn't see "black ink" on the top of the nicely finished cherry surface. This rose two questions, which side is the top of a door stop? They could be used with the flat side down or the angled side down depending on what kind of flooring. So signing the stops on the two "potential" tops wasn't a good idea anymore. So I started to sign them with a variable speed Dremel engraver on one of the "pie shaped" sides. The signature wasn't on the potential top and it was no longer black.

Since then, the engraver is my choice for signing work, with the exception of utility bowls, for that I use a wood burner. I also like having the "variable speed" option since all woods are different. For denser end grain, I turn it up, and for softer woods I turn it down. I'm able to write pretty small with this dremel. For around $20, it's a good option.

Hope that helps.

 

[Charlie Knighton]

signing name

my 1st symposium, (at Daleville), i attended Bart Castleberry's Turkey Call rotation, he suggested signing work with a Zig pen,
pigment ink, acid-free, archival quality, lightfast, waterproof, fade proof, non-bleeding

you can buy them at wally world in the sewing crafts department or online
manufactured by kurelake co

it has two tips of different size and is fairly econical

thanks for the tip Bart

 

[Mike Maffitt]

Thanks for the tips

Hey Guys and Gals,

Thanks for all the great tips. I knew there was a bit of creative wisdom out there. My trusty sharpie was either bleeding or just plain rubbing off the finish and just not acceptable so I will give your ideas a shot. Thanks again!!

 

[Truffuls]

Better late than never

I tried several things and was never happy with any of them. Markers/pens seemed unprofessional to me and I have terrible penmanship! Signing my signature would not result in anyone understanding what the scrawl was. Then, I had a moment of clarity (rare though they may be) and I recalled that Cindy Drozda showed me how she signs her work. She uses the standard engraver but sharpens the nib to a thinner point!

Ever since I sharpened mine I have no problems using it to sign. For a classy touch, get yourself some metallic crayons. Liberon used to sell a 10 piece set in a handy metal tin but I can't find it anymore. Any "gilding" or waxy frame filler should work.

After you have finished the piece, use the engraver to add your signature, then rub the metallic crayons over the engraving. Take a soft cloth to rub off the excess and the crayon will remain only in the engraving.

Don't attempt this on the raw wood, it will smear and stick in the grain.