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Size Matters

Depends on the shape you want. If you use the straight tool and go in at a shallow V cut in theory you could probably core a 1" piece. All the cutters except the straight one are parts of a circle so you should be able to simply draw arcs and see. If you want say a cereal bowl shape then the arc created by that cutter + the thickness of the cutter and how accurate you can set the tool up will determine the thickness (or thinness) of the blank.
 
What is the minimum thickness of a blank for successful coring with the McNaughton unit?

It is a function of skill, diameter, and usefulness of the core.
With the straight tool you can cut off a 1/4-1/8" thick piece, have a 1/4" kerf, leave a 1/4-1/8" piece on the chuck.

A 3/4" piece could be cut in half with the straight tool.

Easy way to figure what you could get is draw a picture.
If you can cut the line that is your answer.
Just be a little generous on the kerf unless you are close to mike mahoney's skill

Have fun,
Al
 
For utility bowls, I won't take a core less than 8 inch diameter and 3 inch deep. Too much work, and not enough return, plus I end up with a lot of very small bowls that sit around. For the Mahoney type stacked sets, he goes down to tiny 2 inch diameter pieces some times, but these are high priced burl pieces and you want to use every scrap. So, I guess the answer is 'it depends'. You can turn a cylinder and part off plate blanks, or shallow platter blanks, but I find it easier, or maybe more efficient to cut the pieces out from stock. Having a bandsaw that cuts 16 inches high really helps that part.

robo hippy
 
If you have a stunning or really pricy piece of wood take chances. But ere on the high side of the bottom. In Koa I take as many cones as I can. A very shallow solid curl piece and I try my best to take a cone. That shallow platter will more than pay for the main blank. I am not near as good as Mike Mahoney or Andy Cole but have been coning for 25 plus years. Started with the stewart slicer.
 
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