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Skew chisel

Joined
Mar 9, 2024
Messages
8
Likes
2
Location
Portland, TN
Good morning all. Turning is certainly not easy..lots of practice, proper tools and an open bankroll.
I have made several tea light holders and bottle stoppers. However I still can't seem to master the skew.
I have it sharpened correctly and it still scares me from catches I still get.
Input from you all on grind angle you use and the tool rest height in relation to center.
Hope to come in January to meet you all.
Blessings
 
Good morning all. Turning is certainly not easy..lots of practice, proper tools and an open bankroll.
I have made several tea light holders and bottle stoppers. However I still can't seem to master the skew.
I have it sharpened correctly and it still scares me from catches I still get.
Input from you all on grind angle you use and the tool rest height in relation to center.
Hope to come in January to meet you all.
Blessings
whereabouts in Tennessee are you at? I wonder if you can make the trip to go see @John K Jordan , he'd be a great option to teach you the skew... It is a lot easier to learn with some guidance - I outta know.. took me many many multiple tries to even "get the hang of it" but persistent practice and understanding how the bevel works (If you cant get to a teacher, There's a couple of youtube channels that might be very helpful - Foe ME, one of the more helpful ones was Tomislav Tomasic) - One of the big things is having the correct tool rest height , which typically is "above" center instead of "at center" so you can lay your bevel practically on top of the spinning spindle (Around 10:30 to 11:00 looking from end of spindle where your cutting is happening worked well for me.) I still get catches and "runs" every now and then when I get overconfident and let it come off bevel...
 
... However I still can't seem to master the skew.
I have it sharpened correctly and it still scares me from catches I still get.
Input from you all on grind angle you use and the tool rest height in relation to center.
...

Hi Tim!
I find that once you get the "feel" for the skew things like the grind angle and tool rest height, cutting angle, flat/oval/round and more, don't make much difference. I think I mentioned this before, I start all students on the skew, even if they have never seen a lathe before. I usually hand them a fairly wide skew, slightly curved edge, with a larger included angle - this combination might be a little easier for some to learn on.

This is the skew, hard to see in the photo. The beginner had no problems, even with her boyfriend watching. (she didn't want to wear safety glasses or tie back her hair. :( They all sign a release form written by my lawyer!)
IMG_20160227_133717_059_s.jpg

It's an old, cheap Craftsman skew at the bottom of this photo, ground to about a 60-deg included angle.
Craftsman_lathe_tools_old.jpg

Some things I think are important, especially when learning: stance, hand position, support of forearm against body for stabilization, cutting angle, position of the cutting edge on the blank, finger support against tool rest.

IMO, even more important is the method of learning. I developed a way of introduction that so far, with dozens of student, has not failed - not one has ever gotten a catch (at least while in my shop!) In a short time we go from the skew to spindle gouge to roughing gouge and often they make something to take home.

For example, in a one day these two "neverseenalathe" beginners learned to use those tools in the morning and bowl turning in the afternoon and made these. At the end of the day, one (who I knew from my SS kindergarten class years before) said she her favorite tool was the "pointy" one! :)
Girls_IMG_20150804_184250_898.jpg Girls_IMG_20150804_203606_bowls.jpg

I've also taught remedial skew lessons to old turners who were scared by catches and just gave up. I didn't see one for a few years and when I did he ran over and wanted to shake my hand - he said the skew was now one of his favorite tools! One person drove across several states for a skew lesson. And while doing a demo for a private course at a craft school I took the huge risk of embarrassing myself by asking if anyone in the audience had never used the skew and would like to try - a guy came up and we went through the skew part in about 5 minutes and again, smooth planing cuts and no catches! Whew... My real goal was actually to show others, some with a lot of turning experience, the teaching method I use.

A brief description of how I go about it.
  • I start by rounding a blank for them while they watch, then make a couple of planing cuts to smooth.
  • Turn the lathe off.
  • Show them how I hold the skew, brace my right arm against my side, position of left hand, position of feet, etc.
  • Show them a good starting position on the blank, draw a good angle on the wood with a sharpy.
  • Use a red sharpy to show what part of the skew edge to avoid touching to the wood!
  • Have them hold the tool and place it on the (non-spinning) wood.
  • I stand to the left and with the lathe motor off, turn the lathe and blank by hand and adjust the position until the edge slightly cuts into the wood.
  • After they can consistently make fine shavings in one or two spots along the cylinder, I have them try moving the tool from right to left as an introduction to the planing cut. Special attention is to hand/arm position as well as foot/leg position and movement.
  • By this time, the cylinder has been cut into so I take over, turn the lathe on, and smooth it again (so they'll have a clean slate!)
  • I put the belt at the lowest position for the lowest speed (Jet and PM lathes) and set the speed control to the minimum speed.
  • (drum roll...) Turn the lathe on.
  • Since they can make a nice shaving now, I have them start a shaving at the lowest speed and move the skew to the left and try to maintain continuous shavings, not worrying yet about the smoothness of the cut. I'm still watching and providing verbal feedback on cutting edge position, angle, as well as arm, hand, and leg position ("bend the left knee and straighten the right" :)) and how to easily adjust the cutting position on the skew edge by twisting the handle a bit. The biggest problem some have is not using the legs but just swinging the skew from right to left - this requires contortions to keep from making an arc with the skew and changing the cutting angle - not a good thing!
  • After a pass or so, I smooth the cylinder again and they practice planing cuts.
  • Then I turn up the speed a bit and as they get more confidence, keep increasing the speed until it's really truckin' along (I'm still watching over the shoulder and verbally correcting as needed and resmooth the cylinder if needed - I don't want them to have to deal with a bumpy surface yet.)
  • It's surprising how little time it takes for them to make nice planing cuts!!
  • Then I have them try planing in the opposite direction.
  • I then demonstrate v-grooves, shallow at first, and they try try.
  • We set the skew aside and I demonstrate the moves needed to make coves with a spindle gouge - the entry angle, starting and ending position (in the middle of the cove) and multiple coordinated movements needed. The spindle gouge is harder than the skew!
  • I let them practice coves for a while, all the way down the blank.
  • Mount a new square blank and introduce them to the spindle roughing gouge. They round the blank then smooth it with the skew.
  • While still holding the skew, I have them make a few more shallow v-grooves then take over and demonstrate deep v-groves - gotta be careful on those!!
  • Then back to the spindle gouge and learn beads.
  • After all that, I suggest some possible 1st projects.
The dibble shown above is easy, the other girl had four older brothers and wanted to make a self-protection device! Several have made a tool handle. One teen girl visiting us from Italy made a wonderful "Bob Rosand style" ring keeper after the introductory lesson. When they come back again after getting some experience we may work on something more difficult such as thin spindles (wands, conductor baton, tops, etc. One went quickly from Close Encounter with the Lathe to making lidded boxes, bowls, platters, and some tricky things. They have a lathe now and make and embellish things to give as gifts! Makes me smile. :)

As mentioned, I have NEVER had a student get a single catch! Maybe that will continue! (Knock on Bubinga)
I once described to a well-known long time instructor (with a great reputation) how I start students with the skew - his response was "You can't do that." My response: Oh yeah? I figure that once if they learn the skew first some of other cutting tools may be easier.

My best advice is to try to find an experienced, patient, hands-on instructor for some one-on-one instruction! You may be surprised at how fast and how easy things get! A huge advantage of learning the skew and proficincy with spindles is, as described by several internationally known turners, it will teach the fine tool control that will make turning anything easy. All the experienced spindle turners I know have no problem turning face work but the opposite is not always the case for those who start and stick with bowls, especially from green wood.

That's my $0.02.

Oops, after writing this I noticed @Brian Gustin posted a message. If you feel like taking a road trip my shop is your shop. I'll show you everything I know in about 15 minutes. The price is a good story or a good joke and a promise to take home a few spindle blanks. :)

Or if I can get out your way, I'm not opposed to dropping by your shop!

JKJ
 
Oh, this is the young friend from Italy starting on her very first project, the ring keeper. (She wasn't opposed to wearing some protective gear!)
She smoothed the spindle with the skew, used the spindle roughing gouge to make the curves, and the spindle gouge and point tool on the base. (I stood back and made suggestions but didn't touch a thing.) The result was outstanding!
SUSY_IMG_20180725_213324_855.jpg

She made the ring keeper on the right in the first picture. The wood is some from a suitcase full a good friend brought me from Australia!
BTW, these are VERY popular, great Christmas presents, easy to make. I've made dozens - my Lovely Bride keeps one at the kitchen sink and one at her makeup/jewelry station. I should probably write up a short turning description with dimensions and such.
ring_keepers_comp.jpg

JKJ
 
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.lots of practice,
You hit it.
I know there are many You tube videos out there on the skew chisel- but nothing gets you used to it like practice. Daily practice. Get a bunch of cheap poplar and use a "safety drive" so a catch doesn't scare you to death and keep on practicing. My biggest scare is not catches but skate back or cork screw from coming off the bevel for a micro second.
Good luck.
 
Also, I forgot... I wrote a document on turning thin spindles in which I talked a bit about the using the skew, don't know if it would be useful but might be entertaining.


JKJ
 
whereabouts in Tennessee are you at? I wonder if you can make the trip to go see @John K Jordan , he'd be a great option to teach you the skew... It is a lot easier to learn with some guidance - I outta know.. took me many many multiple tries to even "get the hang of it" but persistent practice and understanding how the bevel works (If you cant get to a teacher, There's a couple of youtube channels that might be very helpful - Foe ME, one of the more helpful ones was Tomislav Tomasic) - One of the big things is having the correct tool rest height , which typically is "above" center instead of "at center" so you can lay your bevel practically on top of the spinning spindle (Around 10:30 to 11:00 looking from end of spindle where your cutting is happening worked well for me.) I still get catches and "runs" every now and then when I get overconfident and let it come off bevel...
I live in Portland TN...yes I have seen his videos and he makes it look easy too
 
Turning is certainly not easy..lots of practice, proper tools and an open bankroll.

If you stick with it. Turning becomes easy once you learn to let the tools do the work.

One of the difficult things for me to learn was to hold the tools lightly.
When I got a near catch I’d hold the tools tighter
Doing a difficult cut I’d hold the tools tighter.
Holding the tool tightly prevents it from following the bevel and a catch becomes more likely.
 
Thanks the Alan Lancer video was great...I ordered a safety drive

If you like Alan Lacer's videos, he has a set of DVD. I bought them since I like how easy it is to watch them on a big TV screens.
Some are great, some useful, some a bit dated, and the one on making your own tools may not be for everyone. I have no idea if the DVDs cover everything on the YouTube videos.


Alan is also wonderful to talk to on the phone if you have any questions.

Just ask and he'll send you his catalog or two. He sent me a stack and I give them out to visitors and students.
I've bought a number of the Glaser Screw chucks from him - the best available IMO - I use them a lot and keep spares in case I have multiple projects going at once or if I want to loan or give one to a friend.

I like his diamond hone tool I haven't bought any of this turning tools.

JKJ
 
When spindle turning, you want to be working on the top half of the wood. A tool rest AT the center line means that you will automatically be turning on the top half of the wood with any tool. Larger diameter wood may need an even higher tool rest height.

Catches with the skew occur for one of two reasons: 1) you contact the wood with the edge of the tool before you get the bevel on the wood. (Remember ABC: Anchor, Bevel, THEN Cut)
2) the long point touches the wood, unintentionally. The most successful ways to keep the long point from contacting the wood when you don't want, is to have a wider skew, and to use the lower 1/4 - 1/3 of the edge (the short point side) for shearing cuts.
 
Thanks for the information...I also am confused a little where some articles I have seen say to dull the sharp point so it doesn't catch

I'd have trouble taking serious a suggestion to dull the point of the skew! How would they make v-cuts or facing cuts??

There is zero need for this - just keep the long point away from the wood!

During a planing cut if you find the cut getting too high on the skew edge (too close to the long point) it's easy enough to adjust the point of contact during the cut - if the contact point drifts closer to the point, simply twist the wrist to rotate the skew handle a tiny bit while maintaining the proper cut. Practice twisting the handle (a tiny bit) both ways to get a feel for what it does - it will quickly become automatic. When planing from right to left, twisting the handle a bit counterclockwise will move the cut away from the long point. (When teaching, I have the turner practice this while I'm turning the lathe by hand.)

Cutting on the lower half of the edge is recommended, but depending on what I'm doing, I keep the cutting edge somewhere between maybe above the bottom 1/8 to below the top 1/3 of the edge. (I do on occasion cut very close to the long point, especially on thin spindles and in tight places, but I don't mention that to beginners.)

The idea to simply use a wider skew is good - I do that when starting beginners. With a wider skew you have a far longer "safe" area for the cut. A wider skew is really helpful for larger diameter spindle. For thin spindles I usually use a 1/2" or 1/4" skew. I do often support the long point end with fingers or thumb of my left hand. A narrower skew can get into tighter places. I often use a 1/4" round skew a lot to put tapers and shallow curves on handles of finger tops and for facing cuts. (I grind small skews from 1/4" Thompson rods.)

P3131890es.jpg

And don't forget the skew should be sharp, sharp, sharp, shaving sharp - I test with hair on my left forearm. After sharpening, I strop away the grinder burr and start with a polished edge.

The document on thin spindles mentioned above has a bit about spindle use and support. (With thin spindles it's also important to support the wood spindle while turning to eliminate vibration, so the skew is sometimes best used one-handed.) There are pictures of me using the 1/2" skew with various cuts on pages 8, 13, and 14.

I use a small skew for small spindles like certain finials, sharp points, and miniatures, for example the tiny wand pictured below. I have one that's just over 1/8" wide. (That one's no good for turning rolling pins!!)

tiny_things.jpg

As for tool rest height, for thin spindles I think I have it near the center or slightly below to keep the geometry "comfortable". Larger diameter spindles often need a higher tool rest. I don't think I'd be comfortable with what I've seen some do: put the tool rest so high that the skew is nearly horizontal at the top of the spindle. I watched a guy do a demo like that and another turner told me it's easier to avoid a catch but harder for fine control.

On occasion it's helpful to cut with the "short" point. One is if you get undulating ripples down the spindle - simply twist the handle a bit until the short point is cutting - this will clean up the undulations AND help prevent the bevel from riding up and down the undulations to make things worse. Cutting directly with the short point doesn't risk a catch. It will create a roll of "swarf" which will fall away at the end - a following pealing cut should result in a perfectly cylinder or taper. If having a problem with a cut on a specific piece of wood, try pressing the skew down a bit firmer into the tool rest.

If planing up to a shoulder, I usually make a v-cut with the long point of the skew then plane up to the v, shifting the cutting edge as needed for a clean stop.

Some of my skews have a rectangular cross section but I prefer those with a radiused bottom edge - some tool makers such as Doug Thompson do this. If the shaft has has sharp edges on the bottom, might be best to round them a bit with a diamond plate so they will slide easier and not catch on scratches or small dents common in some cast iron or mild steel tool rests. That's one reason I switched to only using Robust rests topped with hardened steel rods.

One last comment in case I forgot to mention it earlier: a slightly rounded cutting edge profile on a skew may be easier to control than a straight edge, primarily because all else equal there is a bit less contact with the wood and the tool is taking a slightly smaller "bite", a bit like using a spindle roughing gouge. (Another advantage is since the long point is closer to horizontal at the end, it can help with peeling cuts.

Yikes, that's a lot of words for what can be demonstrated and taught in a few minutes!

JKJ
 
One of the most important aspects of using a skew well and safely is "soft hands", something that you can't do, yet, Tim. The white knuckle grip that people use when starting a skew, because they've heard how dangerous they are, only makes the skew more difficult. If you keep at it, you will get over your fear of catches, and that will lead to having fewer of them. John J, gets away with using the mid portion of the edge because he's got loads of experience, no fear, and "soft hands".
 
The Allan Batty video is a good one, I've watched it years ago and forgot about it. I watched it again just now.
Some things I like:
  • The camera positions and angles
  • His description of the included angles and why
  • The way he explains EVERYTHING clearly as he goes, rather than do it and just let you watch
  • That he first paints the side of the blanks black
  • The sketches on the square blank with a contrasting marker
  • The way he uses a straight edge to show the bevel in relationship to upcoming cut
  • Introducing other tools in addition to the skew, showing how they work together
  • That he describes the tool rest height for "normal" and special cuts and that a slightly higher tool rest may be useful for a beginner
  • Where on the edges of some tools where he prefers to cut and why
  • Analogy of the sole of a hand plane to the bevel of any cutting tool at the lathe
  • The clearance and reason when making facing cuts with the skew - and his description of the clearance as "one minute past 12", etc. I'm going to steal, er, borrow that
  • His method of making deep v and -cuts, different and prob better than others
  • How to prevent torn entry grain with the parting tool
  • Using the parting tool as a small skew - a common use some don't know
Notice while planing up to a stop he shifts smoothly from working with the bottom

Some tools he doesn't name as he picks them up, but does eventually. I was advised recently by a beginner to always name a tool as it's picked up and used for the first time. I hadn't thought about it much, but yes, there are probably new turners in the audience who don't know each tool on sight, and some might not have a clear view. I'm trying to change my ways!

It's been a while since I watched this but can't finish rewatching now - need to go out and take care of horses and llamas and move some brush and dirt. I'll watch the second half later.


JKJ
 
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