Skew use on larger diameters

[Kirk Amidon]

Posting this from the 'if it does not feel right, ask dept'. I've got a few staved vessels ready to turn, and wanted some advice about if using a skew on them is a good idea or not. In the last year or so, I turned a few of these larger vessels but used roughing gouges and probably bowl gouges. Since then, I've spent a lot of time becoming comfortable with a skew, and thought it would be good to use on the outside of these. However, as I sized things up, I did not feel comfortable with the tool rest position being approximate at center point, as it did not allow it to be presented across the top of the turning as I do for thinner spindles. In order to cut, the skew has to be more vertical and it did not seem to want to be close to a 45* angle, instead more like 70* or so.


Here is an example of the size and type of vessel I'm working with, note the picture is angled such that the tool rest looks super low, but in fact it is at center line.

It seems like a taller toolrest would help as the skew could then be in a more comfortable horizontal plane, as it is for smaller diameter spindles. If so, that is an easy problem to solve, but if it turns out that it is a bad idea, I can forgo using the skew and go back to gouges for this. Curious to the experiences of others.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I'd say whatever's comfortable for you would be the way to go.

I have also tried using skew the way "typical" tools (and turners) do with terrible results (Partly it's the skew and the bevel angle I sharpened on it, partly the fact that my lathe has unfixable runout, and partly because I don't seem to have the fine tool control mastered yet) , then I noticed a turner that seemed to use the skew almost "on top" of the turning , so I brought my tool rest height way up (above center) and discovered I get so much better results.. but it does present a problem when trying to work on larger diameters like yours, so myself, I wouldn't even think of using a skew, especially on a final cut (I don't trust myself enough yet) on a "keeper" or custom project (one where the profile has to be "right there" and little room to "change it up") so I'd go to one of the many gouges in my arsenal.

 

[hockenbery]

I too like to work over the top with the skew.
When i have to work more to the front I often do a planing cut with the skew point down

On large diameter pieces a pulling cut with an Ellsworth grind gives a cut close to skew quality.
The wing bevel angle is around 30 degrees.

I also have an 1.25 wide continental spindle gouge that gives a nice surface on large diameter pieces.

 

[Mike Johnson]

I would get it round with the gouge and then switch over to the skew riding the work piece at a higher position where the skew cutting
edge is slicing off thin ribbons of wood from the work piece. Depending on the wood a sharp negative rake tool can also be used to
round out a large diameter staved work piece; any sharp tool will get it round, your final finishing cut will depend on your comfort zone
with the different lathe tools. You don't want to get too aggressive with your cuts until the staves are rounded over, get in a hurry and you
can splinter the wood on the protruding edges of the staves.

 

[Dean Center]

You've hit on something that is seldom mentioned. Yes, with larger diameter spindle blanks you need to raise the tool rest. With the intermittent wood of the staved blank you show, I personally wouldn't want to use a skew in a planing cut, but I bet Alan Lacer would take his big ol' skew and have a cylinder in a jiffy.

 

[Kirk Amidon]

You've hit on something that is seldom mentioned. Yes, with larger diameter spindle blanks you need to raise the tool rest. With the intermittent wood of the staved blank you show, I personally wouldn't want to use a skew in a planing cut, but I bet Alan Lacer would take his big ol' skew and have a cylinder in a jiffy.

For sure not while all the facets are still intact. I love the finish possible with the skew. I'll take a jaunt over to woodcraft later and grab a longer stem for my rest. I agree that Lacer would have no issue with it - though I'm no Alan Lacer.

 

[Richard Coers]

Rick Reeves (RIP) turned tens of thousands of spindles over his lifetime with a huge, shallow continental style gouge. It had a large enough radius in the gouge that is had the same shearing action of a skew and he would rough it and finish it with just that one tool. He was a master of minimalism of effort and tools. A true master of his craft.

 

[john lucas]

I have a 2 1/2" wide skew that I have used on large turnings. My Thompson 1" skew is a little iffy on really large turns. I prefer to use a large continental gouge or my large Spindle Roughing Gouge.

 

[Kirk Amidon]

I too like to work over the top with the skew.
When i have to work more to the front I often do a planing cut with the skew point down

On large diameter pieces a pulling cut with an Ellsworth grind gives a cut close to skew quality.
The wing bevel angle is around 30 degrees.

I also have an 1.25 wide continental spindle gouge that gives a nice surface on large diameter pieces.

Was out in the shop last night and tried the pulling cut approach, and it worked a charm. Much better than some other approaches. If nothing else, it is a great opportunity to practice pull cuts, which I don't use all that often.