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Skew $$$

M

Manny Yabar

Joined
Sep 26, 2025
Messages
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Location
Fort Lauderdale, FL
“I have a question for the experienced woodturners among you. I am interested in purchasing a 1″ skew chisel and would like to invest in a high-quality tool. My research indicates that Robert Sorby models are priced at approximately $95, Robust at $139, Thompson at $155, Henry Taylor at $124, and Carter and Son at $169, among others. Have prices for these tools historically been at similar levels over the past decade? Considering what they are, these seem to be relatively high-ticket items.”
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I really like my robust 1” skew. It $99 unhandled. I would have bought a Thompson but he was out at the time. Both brands are first class.
 
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For most tools, I highly recommend Thompson Tools. Just good metal and the maker is a good guy who helps our turning community regularly.

While you are looking, check out Alan Lacer who has many videos about skews as well as a slightly different type of skew. Thicker with a curved edge


Alan Lacer Woodturning

Alan Lacer Woodturning
www.alanlacer.com
 
I think that all tools have increased in price over the past years, and particularly so over the past 5 years. That said, the relative difference between each tool you mention has not really changed.

My skews include the large lacer, a 1.25 thompson, a couple benjamins best, a sorby and some old craftsman. The two I use the most are the Thompson, and a 1/2" Craftsman. For whatever reason, those two just feel right in my hands, and the others are all just off slightly. In addition to getting your "investment grade" tool, may I suggest a cheaper one too - for the purpose of trying different profiles and grinds. It is great to be able to compare a skew ground straight across with one curved such as a Lacer.

As for being high ticket items, they are probably lifetime tools for most of us. My skews only hit the grinder when either the edge gets a chip, or when the hollow ground gets flat due to honing. By comparison, my gouges are on the grinder several times every time they are used. So, for me, a skew will outlast a gouge, probably 3 or 4 fold.
 
Much as I like the Thompson steel I prefer the D-Way skew (1-1/4" IIRC) that is one of my most used tools. It takes a good edge and stays sharp, I hone almost exclusively, so can go many months between trips to the grinder. What I prefer about the D-Way is the finishing of the tool, beautifully smoothed edges and curves where they are supposed to be, much nicer that what I can do with a grinding wheel and file on a piece of square stock. (plus I don't enjoy the tool prep)

Unless you're a production turner a skew is likely to last many years, decades if you primarily hone rather than grind. The cost differences you cite are so small on a cost per day of use basis that they wouldn't enter into my consideration of which tool to buy.
 
The old joke goes, "Ask 4 turners, get 5 opinions." The update is, "Ask 4 turners about skews, get 9 opinions." Skews are often controversial. When our club was assembling tool kits for our student lathes, some members were horrified that we included skews. When I teach spindle turning, the skew is the second tool I put in student's hands, right after the spindle roughing gouge.

To answer the actual question, yes tool prices in general have risen significantly over the last decade. Part of this is due to advances in metallurgy and investments by manufacturers to take advantage of M42 and other quality high speed steels.
Any of the brand names will get you a workable tool. I have had great results with Thompson, Sorby, and Henry Taylor tools. My current go-to skew is branded "Shopsmith". I've been using it over a decade and haven't upgraded because it still performs well (but needs more frequent sharpening.) I did buy the Alan Lacer skew, but found the shape awkward so it sits in the back of the drawer.

I learned how to use a skew from an old-school turner back in the late 70's. He only used a 1/2" skew. His reasoning was that you only cut with the heel or the toe so the middle half inch was a waste of steel. He also ground a convex bevel, claiming it was easier to ride than a concave one. I still use a slightly convex grind, but use a full 1" tool.
 
Roger Wiegand said:
Much as I like the Thompson steel I prefer the D-Way skew (1-1/4" IIRC) that is one of my most used tools. It takes a good edge and stays sharp, I hone almost exclusively, so can go many months between trips to the grinder. What I prefer about the D-Way is the finishing of the tool, beautifully smoothed edges and curves where they are supposed to be, much nicer that what I can do with a grinding wheel and file on a piece of square stock. (plus I don't enjoy the tool prep)

Unless you're a production turner a skew is likely to last many years, decades if you primarily hone rather than grind. The cost differences you cite are so small on a cost per day of use basis that they wouldn't enter into my consideration of which tool to buy.
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Thanks for your feedback. Can you please tell me what do you use to hone your skew and if you have a link of that .
 
Manny Yabar said:
Have prices for these tools historically been at similar levels over the past decade?
Click to expand...
Those tools all work well. Check out unhandled tools. I

Tool steel has increased in price a lot.
When a 50% tariff is placed on imported steel, US steel goes up in price by 49% or something similar.
The consumer pays a higher price for turning tools
 
I have a number of skews all are of UK manufacture. My first was an Ashley Iles 3/4" in carbon steel. Still one of my favourites as it sharpens to a razor edge but sadly it needs more frequent attention especially when used on hard/ abrasive timber. The others are all HSS. Ashley Iles uses M2 steel, as does Henry Taylor, which holds an edge for longer. Like the HC tool a couple of strokes on a diamond stone soon restores it to full sharpness. I've not tried any of the more exotic steels as I'm happy with my present set up.

Steel prices in Europe haven risen exponentially over the past few years with tools costing twice as much as they did six or seven years ago. To save a few hard earned quid (bucks) buy unhandled and make your own. We are turners after all!
 
I have all D Way and Thompson tools. You can buy any of them unhandled, which I prefer. Then I make my handle the way I want it, which means sandwich style.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HCjFdcfyaQ


I do prefer just a straight cylinder. Some like a slight radius to the cutting edge, and some like a straight across design. I do prefer the slight radius on mine, but have a couple that are straight, but need to learn them.... As for honing, I do like about a 1000 grit lapping plate, and then go to my old Tormek which I dug out of the dust for stropping. Some don't care to strop to remove the burr, but to me, it made a big difference.

robo hippy
 
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