Sliding headstock in Practice

[Kirk Amidon]

I recently changed lathes to a Powermatic 3520A, the previous lathe was a fixed headstock 12" delta. Most of what I've turned on the new one ironically enough, has been small ornaments and bottle stoppers. I have a few logs to create bowls from, and after turning one in the manner I'm used to, thought about moving the headstock down the ways to make the inside more comfortable. Until I can get the swing away, the tailstock needs to be moved on and off the lathe to get out of the way. My question to those who take advantage of the slding headstock is where do you position the headstock for the initial roughing of the bowl? Do you keep it way left of center, or is it set up close to the tailstock, so all that is needed to turn the inside is loosen the tailstock, and swing it out of the way? At what point would it be slid back over to the far left?

 

[hockenbery]

The headstock over a leg set will have the least vibration.
For smaller bowls < 13-14” it probably doesn’t matter

Turning a 15” NE crotch bowl it probably does.

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I tend to put the headstock toward the middle of the bed when roughing and finishing the outside of the bowl, but that isn't always true. I've found that moving it farther toward the tailstock works just as well, even to the point of placing it about where I would put it if I were doing the inside. I doubt there is a "best" way and believe that it depends on what is comfortable for you. I have the swing-away for my tailstock on my 3520C and, therefore, don't have to slide off a 50 lb tailstock each time I want it out of the way.

Just experiment with what works and feels comfortable for you.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

I leave it wherever it was left from the last time I used the lathe, because it doesn't much matter, so why bother to move it?

Generally I leave it somewhat to the the right of the left end legs so that they aren't in the way when I'm standing at the lathe for most things. That to me, surprisingly, is the biggest advantage of the sliding headstock. I didn't realize how much effort I used to put into finding places for my feet around the legs.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Generally I leave it somewhat to the the right of the left end legs so that they aren't in the way when I'm standing at the lathe for most things.

Geeze! Why didn’t I think of that?! Thanks Roger, you just solved one of my problems. (Picture me dope-slapping myself).

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Other dope-slap moment: when someone on another thread (forgive me someone for not remembering who to credit) mentioned that they use the clutch on their power drill adjusted down to power on and off the jaws screws on their chucks. I had done it at full clutch until I was tired of straining my wrist. Suddenly an easier way presented itself. Also use it on Cole jaws knobs. Life is suddenly much easier and quicker. Live and learn!

 

[JeffSmith]

Mine stays close to the mid-point of the bed when roughing and further to the right when hollowing. Vibration hasn't been an issue - even roughing large, off-balance blanks. I started this practice on a Jet 1640 that was well levelled and didn't notice much of an issue with vibration. The main problem was with the solidity of the banjo, but that's a 'Jet' thing - keep it clean and its less of an issue. Switching to a Robust AB, the rigidity of the weldment and the massive HS clamping plate together with the weight keep vibration to a minimum even on a wood floor no matter where the headstock is positioned.

 

[robo hippy]

When I used my 3520A, I would slide it down as far as I could. Most of the time, I did not use the tailstock, so it wasn't on the lathe. I am strong enough that taking it off and on was not a problem. Never had any problems working around the legs on the PM or my Robust. What inconvenience there might have been was by far offset by being able to stand up straight. I have never noticed vibration from having the headstock not directly over the legs, and I have the extended bed on my Robust.

robo hippy

 

[John Walls]

My headstock sits on the left side, over or just off of the left leg. (facing lathe) With tailstock on. I will round up the blank, form the tenon and make the bowl's outside shape. I will do, depending on time, I'll do up 2 to 4 rounds/bowls (outside cuts) this way. Then as time allows, I remove tailstock and slide head right over right leg for easy off the end turning, much more comfortable. I'll do any outside cuts needed to re-round if needed. Then I work on the inside. Legs, either position do not get in my way.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Wherever you position your headstock on the lathe ways install a morse taper drive in the headstock and a morse taper live center in the tail stock and bring the tail stock up to the headstock and move the headstock around until the morse taper tools line up and then lock the headstock fasteners down. This is the easiest way to align the headstock each time you move it on the ways. There is usually a little play in the headstock and tailstock, the tailstock usually stays centered on the ways if it is setup correctly. You want to check this each time you move the headstock.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

I know this is good practice, and I do it reflexively (from many years working with a lathe where it was absolutely essential), but with the new lathe they always line up and there's no play to to change the alignment even if I wanted to. One can have worse problems!

 

[Randy Heinemann]

I can’t imagine a 750 pound lathe like the Powermatic 3520c having any problems lining up head and tail stock. I have checked it at a couple of points and it’s lined up. The lathe is so heavy it just doesn’t flex ever.

 

[Kirk Yarina]

bring the tail stock up to the headstock and move the headstock around until the morse taper tools line up

Tekna has an alignment tool that's pretty handy

 

[Ron Solfest]

I’ve had a 3520 for 15yrs and have had the tailstock on/off thousands of times. I usually have the headstock just right of center, but move it around frequently depending on size of the turning (never had an issue with center alignment, although I’ve be probably only checked it a couple times - not an issue).

The tailstock is always near the very end when it’s on. I typically take it on/off a couple times per bowl (on - to pressure the blank into a friction drive to turn outside, off - to turn the inside of bowl standing off the end of the lathe, on - centering and holding the bowl into Cole jaws to turn off the bottom).

I have a simple holder made from short 2x stock that sits a few feet away from the end of the lathe, at the same height, so it doesn’t require much, if any, lifting to take it on and off - just slide it off ways, rotate a step, and set it on the holder (reverse to put back on). Simple and easy so it doesn’t bother me to remove often.

 

[Tom Gall]

Other dope-slap moment: when someone on another thread (forgive me someone for not remembering who to credit) mentioned that they use the clutch on their power drill adjusted down to power on and off the jaws screws on their chucks. I had done it at full clutch until I was tired of straining my wrist. Suddenly an easier way presented itself. Also use it on Cole jaws knobs. Life is suddenly much easier and quicker. Live and learn!

Not only does it help with your wrist strain - you won't break or strip any screws! That is what the clutch is designed for. For machine screws I usually start at the lowest (or lower) clutch settings to drive the screw in. Then crank it up a couple of notches for tightening.

 

[Kirk Amidon]

I leave it wherever it was left from the last time I used the lathe, because it doesn't much matter, so why bother to move it?

Generally I leave it somewhat to the the right of the left end legs so that they aren't in the way when I'm standing at the lathe for most things. That to me, surprisingly, is the biggest advantage of the sliding headstock. I didn't realize how much effort I used to put into finding places for my feet around the legs.

This is brilliant, so simple and obvious in hindsight - several times recently I have had to be creative with my footwork DOH!. Thank you.

When I used my 3520A, I would slide it down as far as I could. Most of the time, I did not use the tailstock, so it wasn't on the lathe. I am strong enough that taking it off and on was not a problem. Never had any problems working around the legs on the PM or my Robust. What inconvenience there might have been was by far offset by being able to stand up straight. I have never noticed vibration from having the headstock not directly over the legs, and I have the extended bed on my Robust.

robo hippy

As of now, it is not the weight of the tailstock , but rather not having a good place to put it where I won't immediately need to trip over it.

I have a simple holder made from short 2x stock that sits a few feet away from the end of the lathe, at the same height, so it doesn’t require much, if any, lifting to take it on and off - just slide it off ways, rotate a step, and set it on the holder (reverse to put back on). Simple and easy so it doesn’t bother me to remove often.

Great idea, will see about finding some space to do this in while I hem and haw some more about buying the swing away. Floorium is always at a premium, of course.

 

[Dean Center]

Right now it's snow shoveling season here in the Great White North and one of life's important lessons has been much on my mind. "Use it or Lose it." Many of you know this as well as I, so I'm really addressing the youngsters under 60.

Almost all my neighbors have gone to hired crews to clear their sidewalk and short driveway. I continue to do it myself with a shovel. (I suspect those same neighbors have 911 on speed dial in anticipation of when the old guy is finally going to keel over) I also intentionally do not have a garage door opener. Use it or Lose it. If you find less demanding ways to do physical tasks, you lose strength even faster than Father Time foists on you.

With regards to the tailstock, having a swingaway is a wonderful convenience, but it would cost me biceps strength. So I haul it off and haul it on. Like Ron shows, I have a raised parking spot for it, though not as sweet and well designed as his. That saves the back strain from hoisting it up off the floor, but manhandling it is still required. I still manhandle logs when preparing blanks from FOG wood. There is no gym membership fee for this workout, which appeals to my cheapskate nature. Not everyone will willingly choose hardship, but people in my family live to be really old and I want to be able to do the things I enjoy, and avoid the nursing home, en route.

You youngsters need to consider where to draw the line between convenience and maintaining your abilities. Use it or Lose it. Thankfully, it warmed up and the snow is melting off, but now I have ice to scrape so I don't fall and break a hip. It's always something.... (another great lesson)

Happy New Year, everyone. I hope yours is special.

 

[robo hippy]

It might have been me that said to turn the clutch down when removing and inserting screws on your chuck, and for face plates as well. Some leave the clutch at highest torque position. I think I snapped of a couple of galvanized decking screws before I figured that out. I was getting out of construction about the time all the cordless drills and screw drivers were becoming popular. Some one else may have said it too, but, can't remember....

robo hippy

 

[Kirk Amidon]

Thanks for all the thoughts - turned a bowl last night, and while doing the outside with pull cuts had troubles with my left foot hitting the leg - stopped lathe, moved headstock, and resumed turning. What a little detail to make such a difference. But what no one warned me about was changing the spray zone when turning the inside off the tailstock end...really should have cleaned off the workbench first...much harder with the layer of chips on it now!