Soft Jaws and Nova chucks

[hughie]

The large Nova bowl jaws come with additional m6 tapped holes which make then ideal to making soft jaws.
Turn up a plastic disc to matched the close diameter of the jaws. Now before you place it in the jaws fit into each tapped a a locking screw upside down with the cupped end just protruding the through the surface. Insuring its tightly grabbed in the jaws, then gently hammer it to allow the locking screw to mark the plastic. Dont for get to mark the jaws number of the plastic. The take it out drill clearance holes etc and cut into 4 pieces on the bandsaw. Return and what ever dia you require in the plastic jaws. You can use any soft material nylon , wood , ply wood etc

 

[Jim Reynolds]

Alan Stratton describes an alternative approach in his video DIY soft jaws. The primary difference being direct to the chuck body versus connecting to Cole jaws. I have done neither so can’t opine on which might be better.

 

[hughie]

Alan Stratton describes an alternative approach in his video DIY soft jaws. The primary difference being direct to the chuck body versus connecting to Cole jaws. I have done neither so can’t opine on which might be better.

I looked at direct connection, it involves more maching with a fair degree of accuracy. Then I found Nova jaws come with pre-tapped m6 holes, so it became a no brainer. The only catch is they [Nova] have changed the PCD of the holes so that the new soft jaws are not interchangeable between the two sets I have.

 

[John K Jordan]

I bought a couple of sets of the Nova soft plastic jaws that attach to the chuck. Attach, turn as desired.

NOVA CHUCK ACCESSORY SOFT JAW SET (SKU 6021) - NOVA, a Teknatool Brand

NOVA 6021 Soft Chuck Accessory Jaw Set Expand the versatility of your NOVA Chuck with the NOVA 6021 Soft Chuck Accessory Jaw Set. Designed to fit all NOVA Chucks*, this accessory allows you to tackle specialized projects without needing multiple jaw sets. Made from soft, durable nylon, these...

www.teknatool.com

JKJ

 

[Dean Center]

The large Nova bowl jaws come with additional m6 tapped holes which make then ideal to making soft jaws.
Turn up a plastic disc to matched the close diameter of the jaws. Now before you place it in the jaws fit into each tapped a a locking screw upside down with the cupped end just protruding the through the surface. Insuring its tightly grabbed in the jaws, then gently hammer it to allow the locking screw to mark the plastic. Dont for get to mark the jaws number of the plastic. The take it out drill clearance holes etc and cut into 4 pieces on the bandsaw. Return and what ever dia you require in the plastic jaws. You can use any soft material nylon , wood , ply wood etc

Would this allow you to make an effective substitute for a collet chuck? That is, when the jaws are mounted, cut them to produce a 1/2" or 3/8" gripping diameter. Would it hold well?

 

[hughie]

Would this allow you to make an effective substitute for a collet chuck? That is, when the jaws are mounted, cut them to produce a 1/2" or 3/8" gripping diameter. Would it hold well?

Yes, I have several plastic jaws and a plywood set, all these can be altered, tend to do this for specific daimeters and of course eventually they have to be replaced. Then I have 3 aluminium Jaws of 35,40 and 45mm dia or 1-3/8, 1-1/5 and 1-3/4. Fixed and all made to hold small footed pieces and ornate boxes like my avatar. Perhaps not really a substitute for a collet set up, but it could e used that way.

 

[hughie]

I also find the cole jaws are not so secure compared to a dedicated set jaws, maybe its just me.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I took a different approach I started with 4 squares and glued them together with brown paper in the joints then turned the assembly round and made a dovetail to fit the steel jaws. Note the dovetail is full depth so the wood jaw is tight against the metal jaw. I then separated the 4 quarter rounds and trimmed the flat sides to the dimension of the steel jaws. The holes were drilled using the steel jaws as a drilling guide and then using a piloted forstner bit to counter bore from the other end. The wood jaws were attached with longer M6 screws sandwiching the metal jaws. I made a steel slug the same diameter as the woodworm, but not extending beyond the metal jaws, to hold the jaws at the perfect circle then turn the internal contour as needed.