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soft sheen

Charlie Knighton

Charlie Knighton

Joined
Jan 20, 2006
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Location
Martinsville, VA
i wonder if the soft sheen of renaissance wax would help a bleached box elder piece that has 3 coats of minwax water-based polycrylic protective finish on it?? the poly does not buff to a high gloss :cool2:

the renaissance over poly would stay white with red stain???????
 
When I was in the service, we used gallons of water-emulsion wax, buffed to a fare-thee-well on every floor. When the all-volunteer concept was adopted, the duty of maintaining floors was one of the first to be contracted out. Civilians used acrylic rather than the high-maintenance soft wax. It shone brightly enough, but any attempt to buff it only succeeded in dulling it. I always presumed it was because the stuff was brittle. Light bending around sharp edged scratches, no matter how small, looks very different from light returned from softly rounded edges. We were back to GI within six months. Seems the bigwigs were more interested in the effort indicated by buffer marks than actual shine.

I suspect that your problem is similarly based, but you're not likely to get the same effect you'd get with solvent-based poly or alkyd finishes, which are softer and flow a bit under heat to give rounded edges. Difference in refractive index between the wax filling the scratches and the finish would give a different result. You would, of course be able to see buff marks in the wax. Maybe that would be enough? Worked for those zebras with their clipboards who inspected our floors.
 
baitbegger said:
i wonder if the soft sheen of renaissance wax would help a bleached box elder piece that has 3 coats of minwax water-based polycrylic protective finish on it?? the poly does not buff to a high gloss :cool2:

the renaissance over poly would stay white with red stain???????
Click to expand...

Charlie, Which polycrylic are you using and how long has it cured? If you're going to rub out (buff) any waterborne finish, you should wait at least 2 weeks for the film to cure. Using anything but "gloss" will not polish.
 
I think Mark hit it on the head. I've been able to buff some of the Poly finishes quite well but it takes at least a week or more to cure. Run a scrap pieces and try to sand it with 600 grit. If it pills up it's not dry enough to buff or rub out. I had to wait 2 weeks for a table that rubbed out to dry enough to polish with Rhotenstone.
 
i think yall are both correct, i used the semi-gloss on the first 3 coats, after posting, i called company and they suggested just 1 more coat of gloss and wait a month to buff

i made a trip to wally world and they had the semi, gloss, and satin

just put the extra coat of gloss over the 3 of semi, i had not tried to buff yet because the other piece i did never buffed up, but when ya decide ya want gloss and buy semi-gloss just redo to find the look :D

i was using minwax water based Polycrylic clear semi and bought the gloss today
 
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Charlie,

There are wide differences in waterborne finishes as far as film hardness and clarity. It's not likely that a wallyworld consumer produce like the minwax is going to perform the way you wish. I'll suggest you get more sophisticated with your finishes. A good place to start is to talk to a real pro who can take your specs and move you to the right products that will give you the results you want.

I suggest you talk to Jeff Jewitt at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com He's located in Cleveland, OH

Jeff is a pro finisher and educator and author, plus he sells a full line of evaporative, oil-based, and waterborne finishes, dyes and stains, abrasives, polishing compounds, and top lines in spray and hand application tools. Great guy to work with as well.

You can also post finishing questions on his free online forum and get answer and suggestion from other skilled people.
 
link

thanks for the link and suggestions :cool2:

SUPERCLEAR POLYURETHANE

OXFORD 9000 SERIES SUPERCLEAR POLYURETHANE - this is the Target product to use when you want a durable, 100% water-clear and non-yellowing finish. Product applies well by spray or brush and is ideal for countertops and other high wear areas. Best product to use over white or pickled finishes or where you want the natural color of the wood to show through. Product can be tinted to the USL colors above or over tinted EmTech 8800 sealer. Polishes very well.

might be what i need
 
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Oxford also makes a waterborne lacquer that will actually burn in to the previous layer.

I use General Finishes Enduro gloss on my furniture and it will take a cross linker for a super hard finish.

Call Jeff tomorrow and ask him for suggestions. If he happens to be out, Susan, his wife, can also help you just as well.
 
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