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Some days

hughie

hughie

Joined
Oct 1, 2008
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Location
Sydney Australia
I have a couple of dust collectors one Jet the other is a Jet knock off by the look of it. the non Jet is a atmospheric type that cleans up the dust hanging in the air. Recently it has started to flip the RCD or Residual Current Device that compulsory on all house and commercial wiring boards nationwide. Which probably means its motor, darn. Well I could change it as its over 25 years old. But in my experience they rarely play up and usually the fault lies with the appliance, and of course its high in the middle of the shop surrounded by gear that came after installation.
 

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hughie said:
I have a couple of dust collectors one Jet the other is a Jet knock off by the look of it. the non Jet is a atmospheric type that cleans up the dust hanging in the air. Recently it has started to flip the RCD or Residual Current Device that compulsory on all house and commercial wiring boards nationwide. Which probably means its motor, darn. Well I could change it as its over 25 years old. But in my experience they rarely play up and usually the fault lies with the appliance, and of course its high in the middle of the shop surrounded by gear that came after installation.
Click to expand...

Is the RCD (which I assume is similar to GFCI or AFCI, Ground Fault or Arc Fault, in the US?) absolutely required even on circuits with motors? I had to completely remove fault protection from the 250V 30A breaker I use for my Powermatic. The lathe uses a VFD, which are just flat out incompatible with GFCI or AFCI (or any combination) just due to the nature of how they function. When I had the G/AFCI breaker in place, it would trip within 10-20 seconds of turning the lathe on, every single time. Once I removed it, the lathe worked perfectly, and has ever since. I also tried a receptacle with GFCI protection, but it, too, was always tripped. The receptacle was a lot harder to source and very expensive, so I returned it pretty promptly.

The thing about motors, is they do tend to arc a little bit, right? There is no exclusion for motor appliances with RCD?
 
Jon Rista said:
Is the RCD (which I assume is similar to GFCI or AFCI, Ground Fault or Arc Fault, in the US?) absolutely required even on circuits with motors? I had to completely remove fault protection from the 250V 30A breaker I use for my Powermatic. The lathe uses a VFD, which are just flat out incompatible with GFCI or AFCI (or any combination) just due to the nature of how they function. When I had the G/AFCI breaker in place, it would trip within 10-20 seconds of turning the lathe on, every single time. Once I removed it, the lathe worked perfectly, and has ever since. I also tried a receptacle with GFCI protection, but it, too, was always tripped. The receptacle was a lot harder to source and very expensive, so I returned it pretty promptly.

The thing about motors, is they do tend to arc a little bit, right? There is no exclusion for motor appliances with RCD?
Click to expand...
RCD's work just fine motors. I am not sure how RCD's compare to your set up. There a couple of known exceptions in new houses often the oven/cooktop is wired with its own circuit independent of the RCD as elements have been known to leak and in the past the fridge circuit. There's virtually no time delay when it trip [ 25–40 milliseconds ], they are so sensitive you cant use a metre to check the circuit, testing is usually done via the test button on the RCD.

Heres a brief description
  • RCDs monitor the current flowing through the circuit's live and neutral wires.

  • Normally, the current flowing into and out of a load is balanced.

    • When a fault occurs (e.g., a person touches a bare conductor), some current may leak to the ground, creating an imbalance.
    • RCDs detect this imbalance and quickly disconnect the power supply, often within milliseconds, to prevent harm.
 
hughie said:
RCD's work just fine motors. I am not sure how RCD's compare to your set up. There a couple of known exceptions in new houses often the oven/cooktop is wired with its own circuit independent of the RCD as elements have been known to leak and in the past the fridge circuit. There's virtually no time delay when it trip [ 25–40 milliseconds ], they are so sensitive you cant use a metre to check the circuit, testing is usually done via the test button on the RCD.

Heres a brief description
  • RCDs monitor the current flowing through the circuit's live and neutral wires.

  • Normally, the current flowing into and out of a load is balanced.

    • When a fault occurs (e.g., a person touches a bare conductor), some current may leak to the ground, creating an imbalance.
    • RCDs detect this imbalance and quickly disconnect the power supply, often within milliseconds, to prevent harm.
Click to expand...
That is exactly what a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) does.
 
hughie said:
RCD's work just fine motors. I am not sure how RCD's compare to your set up. There a couple of known exceptions in new houses often the oven/cooktop is wired with its own circuit independent of the RCD as elements have been known to leak and in the past the fridge circuit. There's virtually no time delay when it trip [ 25–40 milliseconds ], they are so sensitive you cant use a metre to check the circuit, testing is usually done via the test button on the RCD.

Heres a brief description
  • RCDs monitor the current flowing through the circuit's live and neutral wires.

  • Normally, the current flowing into and out of a load is balanced.

    • When a fault occurs (e.g., a person touches a bare conductor), some current may leak to the ground, creating an imbalance.
    • RCDs detect this imbalance and quickly disconnect the power supply, often within milliseconds, to prevent harm.
Click to expand...

That's how GFCI works. They definitely don't work with a VFD... Is RCD a breaker, or is it something more complex?
 
Lol and these headings/titles etc will vary with each country and so for me they are all dust collectors. They all collect, extract, filter, take away, remove, clean, etc.

The thing is, it dang well died and its in an very awkward position to remove by one man and I am comin into my busiest time of turning, as I said some days are diamonds
 
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The dust collector/filter/cleaner/extractor names that are tossed around are sometimes vague.

To me, the dust collector creates a strong suction to remove air, dust, and chips at the point of creation (sanding, turning, sawing).
What I usually hear called an air cleaner/filter removes extremely fine particles that float around in the air. My Jet “Air Filtration System” is a box that hangs from the ceiling and slowly removes these fine particles. When I had the shop in a garage with no cyclone but used a shop vac, my Dylos particle counter let me know about fine dust in the air. When I left the space with the filter running, in 20 minutes or so the particle count dropped back to normal.

The instructions say for most efficiency mount the Filtration box near the ceiling or fastened high near on a wall. The location is important, best near the middle a long wall, considering the dust creation area and the intended air circulation patterns. Regardless of DC or filter, good ppe is recommended while making dust!

I also keep an air filtration unit in the back room of my shop, where during peacock/guinea/chicken incubation and raising season the quantity of fine dust they make has to be seen to be believed.

I have about 150 baby chickens 1-5 days old in a stack of heated brooders. People should be picking them up any day now. (for some reason more people want to produce there own eggs this year, can’t figure it out… :)

IMG_0439.jpeg
IMG_0440.jpeg

I may have extras this year. Anyone want some free chicks? (The peafowl are not free!I)

JKJ
 
My Jet 1000B, I think it is, is called an Air Filtration System. I use that every time I'm out there. It does a pretty good job. Early on, I was confused about the blue outer filters. I thought you had to toss em, so early on I was buying new ones, any time I saw them available. This was, oh, mid 2020? The filters at the time were, at least at the local Woodcraft, like $11.95 each. I bought several...then grabbed another oh, a couple of months later, when more showed up at Woodcraft. I wasn't paying attention, but the price on the filters had jumped...to $39.95!! I accidentally bought another one at Rockler some time later, and didn't check the price, it too was like $40. Well, I stopped buying more after that. Then, even more time later, I RTFM....and those filters can be cleaned and reused.... 🤦‍♂️ So, I have about 5 or 6 of them left. Today, the freakin things are $45.99!! What a ripoff! (I even noticed that the mid-grade filters for my house HVAC, have also about tripled in price.) Egregious! :P

John K Jordan said:
I have about 150 baby chickens 1-5 days old in a stack of heated brooders. People should be picking them up any day now. (for some reason more people want to produce there own eggs this year, can’t figure it out… :)

View attachment 75097
View attachment 75098

I may have extras this year. Anyone want some free chicks? (The peafowl are not free!I)

JKJ
Click to expand...

I'd love to have some chicklens. Not only have I been researching the benefits of healthy, home grown (or friends farm grown) eggs as well as fresh chicken meat, but when eggs don't have to go through the cockamamie idiocy that our government forces on farmers and the populace, such as having to wash every egg or bleach our chicken meat (!!!!!! 😡), well eggs that still have the bloom can last nearly a month on the counter, months in the fridge, and you can feed the chickens health food...like the grubs (and even mice!) they actually eat. Not the grain that pumps their eggs full of PUFA (BAAAAD FAT!) I won't even get into bleaching chicken meat...makes me too angry.

While it is legal to own chickens here in Aurora, CO, and I would really love to decouple myself from mainstream supply that our government can so readily decimate, I simply don't have any space for it. :'(
 
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