Considering the necessity of "rubbing the bevel" what bevel angle for a spindle gouge would be the most appropriate. I have seen everything from 30 to 45 degrees. I would like to hear some opinions on the advantages or disadvantages between upper and lower angles.
-
Congratulations to Bernie Hyrtzak, People's Choice in the January 2026 Turning Challenge (click here for details) -
Congratulations to David Croxton for "Geri's Basket Illusion" being selected as Turning of the Week for February 2, 2026 (click here for details) -
AAW Symposium demonstrators announced - If the 2026 AAW International Woodturning Symposium is not on your calendar, now is the time to register. And there are discounts available if you sign up early, by Feb. 28. Early Bird pricing gives you the best rate for our 40th Anniversary Symposium in Raleigh, North Carolina, June 4–7, 2026. (There are discounts for AAW chapter members too) For more information vist the discussion thread here or the AAW registration page
-
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
Spindle gouge Bevel
- Thread starter LANKFORD
- Start date
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 22
First, what's a "spindle gouge" besides a name? I cut mine at about 1.2:1 for the forged gouges. Bevel is a couple tenths wider than the gouge is thick. But you can't do that with the cylindrical gouges, because they're not uniform in thickness. I swing the nose for about 75% of the inside, then roll for a fingernail. Makes variable angle.
The fact that you've seen all kinds of angles mentioned should be your cue - it's up to you. Don't get 'em too long or the edge gets fragile is the only firm rule on bevels.
Oh yes, the bevel rubs parallel to the edge more than perpendicular when cutting, so don't try to lever a shaving by keeping the entire rubbing perpendicular, cut it and peel with forward motion. .
The fact that you've seen all kinds of angles mentioned should be your cue - it's up to you. Don't get 'em too long or the edge gets fragile is the only firm rule on bevels.
Oh yes, the bevel rubs parallel to the edge more than perpendicular when cutting, so don't try to lever a shaving by keeping the entire rubbing perpendicular, cut it and peel with forward motion. .
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Well I have spindle gouges from about 35 to 65 degrees. My favorite is a 3/8" Packard gouge that I sharpen in the Wolverine jig at about 60 or so degrees. This one gets the most use. Then I have a 1/2" henry taylor that is sharpened about 40 degrees. This one gets the most use when turning larger coves and bigger spindles like chair legs. I also have a 3/8" off brand that is a copy of my packard. This one is kept very sharp at about 30 degrees and ground with a second bevel so it's also quite thin at the tip. This one is used mostly for deep narrow details.
I have a large one that is about 1" wide. This is also my chair leg spindle gouge. I started out sharpening it about 35 degrees but is was really grabby so I changed it to 45 degrees and it's much more user friendly.
I would say 45 degrees is a good starting point and then see how you like it.
I have a large one that is about 1" wide. This is also my chair leg spindle gouge. I started out sharpening it about 35 degrees but is was really grabby so I changed it to 45 degrees and it's much more user friendly.
I would say 45 degrees is a good starting point and then see how you like it.
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2005
- Messages
- 13,205
- Likes
- 5,808
- Location
- Dalworthington Gardens, TX
- Website
- pbase.com
There is probably too much ado made about rubbing the bevel. It is a good starting point, but the tool can't cut until there is a small clearance angle -- and once that happens, there is a small length of bevel behind the cutting edge that is actually "rubbing" or "gliding" (a term that I prefer since you can feel when it is gliding) on the wood.LANKFORD said:
A long thin cutting edge will be more "grabby" because there is a longer length of the bevel behind the cutting edge that is gliding along the wood as it peels off a layer of wood. This thin edge can very quickly start cutting much deeper since the resistance to cutting is very low. A very fat edge would not be as likely to slice into the wood. Additionally, it is much more difficult to recover from an incipient catch with a thin edge tool because the fulcrum point is much further back from the cutting edge than it is for the same tool with a fat edge. With a longer fulcrum distance, more motion is needed at the tool handle to lift the cutting edge out of the cut and you reach a point where your reaction time is insufficient to avoid a divergent condition (engineer talk for "aww, ****".
Bill
I think 40 degrees and rubbing the bevel results in an outstanding cut. Do it right and start sanding at 220 or 320.
(Note, I usually have to start at 80 grit ).
RonW
(Note, I usually have to start at 80 grit ).
RonW
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I could not agree with Bill more on the term gliding the bevel. I also use rubbing the bevel because that's what we all use but I find that the lighter you "rub" the bevel" the better your cut, especially for final cuts. I think the term rubbing makes the new turner want to push the bevel against the wood and this often leads to vibration which can cause bad cuts or even chatter in the wood. Being very light on the bevel especially with square turnings or turnings that have a void is a very good technique to learn. When you are turning the wings of a square turning for example, if you push on the bevel you will take a very heavy cut compared to the same pressure on the uninterupted cut.