Square nose scraper modification

[Michael Perez]

Hello, I hope you’re doing well. I have a question: if I buy a Carter & Son 1” square nose scraper but later decide I prefer a different shape, like a negative rake scraper or a skew, would it make sense to modify it? In my imagination, I see that this shape could work as a blank for other profiles if I’m not mistaken. Would it perform as well as a brand-new tool in that shape, or do factory shapes offer specific benefits that might be lost in the modification process?
Thanks so much—your advice and recommendations are always so helpful to me.

 

[Isaac Fisher]

Go ahead and regrind to whatever shape you like. Regrinding won’t hurt the tool. Just resist the urge to cool it in water if it starts getting hot. That will cause problems with most modern tool steels.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I don’t buy any tool for a specific grind. I buy the cheapest version of the tool, ie bar or flat stock size, and then put the grind I want on it. If one uses some of the more shapely scrapers, like a side scraper, that’s worth purchasing the tool, but any flat top or nrs end grind must be done by you in your shop, so just diy. If you want M2 for scrapers blanks can be purchased online (amz, ebay) to save more $. 4” hand grinder can form the handle tang quick enough.

I keep a 46 gr Alox wheel on a grinder just for tool shaping.

 

[Michael Perez]

Go ahead and regrind to whatever shape you like. Regrinding won’t hurt the tool. Just resist the urge to cool it in water if it starts getting hot. That will cause problems with most modern tool steels.

Thanks so much! I plan to reshape it using my Rikon slow-speed grinder (1/2 HP) with a 60-grit wheel. When I worked on a Robert Sorby square scraper, I did it in a few passes, stopping in between to prevent overheating. The process was very quick and effective, but I’ve never tried this with any HSS M42 steel before.

 

[Michael Perez]

I don’t buy any tool for a specific grind. I buy the cheapest version of the tool, ie bar or flat stock size, and then put the grind I want on it. If one uses some of the more shapely scrapers, like a side scraper, that’s worth purchasing the tool, but any flat top or nrs end grind must be done by you in your shop, so just diy. If you want M2 for scrapers blanks can be purchased online (amz, ebay) to save more $. 4” hand grinder can form the handle tang quick enough.

I keep a 46 gr Alox wheel on a grinder just for tool shaping.

Hello, thank you so much! I feel more confident now. I’ve never tried reshaping HSS M42 steel before, but this gives me the chance to experiment with a spear scraper or square shape. If I don’t feel comfortable with it, I can always change it later.

 

[John K Jordan]

if I buy a [whatever] 1” square nose scraper but later decide I prefer a different shape, like a negative rake scraper or a skew, would it make sense to modify it? In my imagination, I see that this shape could work as a blank for other profiles if I’m not mistaken. Would it perform as well as a brand-new tool in that shape, or do factory shapes offer specific benefits that might be lost in the modification process?

That's exactly like I make of my scrapers and negative rake scrapers. I always consider a square end scraper a "blank". I buy square end scraper stock (and sometimes use skew, round stock, detail spindle gouges, and other stock and grind to the shape I want, either conventional scrapers or negative rake.

Your own shapes can perform even better than the original tools if you sharpen them well and apply a proper burr with a burnisher.

A few points:

• Shaping big tool stock can take a LONG time. I used to use an 80 grit CBN wheel just for that then later went to a 60-grit CBN which cuts faster
• Grinding away a lot of metal will put a LOT of extremely fine steel dust in the air. I've found magnets 10' away on the back of my bandsaw covered with black ultra fine steel dust. That stuff can't be good to breathe - wear a respirator.
• Heavy grinding makes so much fine steel dust that a lot can accumulate under and around your grinder. Some people put strong magnets below and to the sides of the grinding wheel that can catch a lot of the dust. Some people put the magnets in plastic bags so they can clean off the dust easily. Note that accumulating a big puffy glob of fine steel dust can be a serious fire hazard - I once had a tiny spark from a CBN wheel ignite a big "hairy" glob of steel dust on a magnet - I noticed an orange glow down in the middle which indicated a small glob of growing molten steel - picked up the thing and took it outside. Be aware.
• After I grind the shape on the 60grit CBN wheel I grind the finial edge on a 600 grit CBN wheel, remove the grinder burr on a leather wheel, then burnish a useful burr on the tool.
• I also make a variety of special tools by grabbing one from a box I keep of old tools I bought for cheap or were given to me. Be aware that some tool makers took shortcuts and didn't harden the full shaft of the tool, just the first inch or two. If you grind through this hardened length you will get into the soft unhardened steel which will be almost worthless for turning wood. I test the shafts of ALL old and used tools with a small 3-corner file - if the file skids on the shaft that steel is hardened. But if the file corner cuts into the shaft that section has not been hardened. Be aware.

I've posted some of these before, but here are example of some negative rake scrapers I've ground from Thompson scrapers and skews, Thompson round rods, and even a Thompson shallow detail spindle gouge. I hold all of these in the hand without putting them in handles. (If the forces on the tool are not extremely light you are doing something wrong.)

I ground these from square-end Thompson scrapers. The bevel on the bottom is identical to the bevel shown on the top. The only think different between the "left" and "right" versions is how I added the burnished burr.


I grind a flat on the ends to let me easily "turn air" on wings on certain designs without risking chipping.
Make sure the scraper and burr are sharp and use a very light touch!
I use the curved part on both the outsides and insides of bowls, platters, etc.
You might be able to see the "whisper" shavings these are capable of removing.

This design was different from any I saw made commercially or specially made by pro turners demonstrating at symposiums.
I've describe it often and brought some to symposiums where people met me and made tracings and asked Doug Thompson to duplicate the grind.

Ground from round stock, a spindle detail gouge, and a piece of bar stock.
Sometimes I grind a different NRS on the other end.
I keep scrapers in a variety of shapes and sizes and find them all useful at one time or another.


And here's another special scraper (not NRS) I ground from an old tool,
custom made only to turn a recess when the tailstock was in the way so another type of tool wouldn't work.


These were all ground on CBN wheels but you can also use conventional grinding wheels or even coarse belt/disk sanders to reshape.

JKJ

 

[Michael Perez]

That's exactly like I make of my scrapers and negative rake scrapers. I always consider a square end scraper a "blank". I buy square end scraper stock (and sometimes use skew, round stock, detail spindle gouges, and other stock and grind to the shape I want, either conventional scrapers or negative rake.

Your own shapes can perform even better than the original tools if you sharpen them well and apply a proper burr with a burnisher.

A few points:

• Shaping big tool stock can take a LONG time. I used to use an 80 grit CBN wheel just for that then later went to a 60-grit CBN which cuts faster
• Grinding away a lot of metal will put a LOT of extremely fine steel dust in the air. I've found magnets 10' away on the back of my bandsaw covered with black ultra fine steel dust. That stuff can't be good to breathe - wear a respirator.
• Heavy grinding makes so much fine steel dust that a lot can accumulate under and around your grinder. Some people put strong magnets below and to the sides of the grinding wheel that can catch a lot of the dust. Some people put the magnets in plastic bags so they can clean off the dust easily. Note that accumulating a big puffy glob of fine steel dust can be a serious fire hazard - I once had a tiny spark from a CBN wheel ignite a big "hairy" glob of steel dust on a magnet - I noticed an orange glow down in the middle which indicated a small glob of growing molten steel - picked up the thing and took it outside. Be aware.
• After I grind the shape on the 60grit CBN wheel I grind the finial edge on a 600 grit CBN wheel, remove the grinder burr on a leather wheel, then burnish a useful burr on the tool.
• I also make a variety of special tools by grabbing one from a box I keep of old tools I bought for cheap or were given to me. Be aware that some tool makers took shortcuts and didn't harden the full shaft of the tool, just the first inch or two. If you grind through this hardened length you will get into the soft unhardened steel which will be almost worthless for turning wood. I test the shafts of ALL old and used tools with a small 3-corner file - if the file skids on the shaft that steel is hardened. But if the file corner cuts into the shaft that section has not been hardened. Be aware.

I've posted some of these before, but here are example of some negative rake scrapers I've ground from Thompson scrapers and skews, Thompson round rods, and even a Thompson shallow detail spindle gouge. I hold all of these in the hand without putting them in handles. (If the forces on the tool are not extremely light you are doing something wrong.)

I ground these from square-end Thompson scrapers. The bevel on the bottom is identical to the bevel shown on the top. The only think different between the "left" and "right" versions is how I added the burnished burr.
View attachment 69882

I grind a flat on the ends to let me easily "turn air" on wings on certain designs without risking chipping.
Make sure the scraper and burr are sharp and use a very light touch!
I use the curved part on both the outsides and insides of bowls, platters, etc.
You might be able to see the "whisper" shavings these are capable of removing.
View attachment 69885
This design was different from any I saw made commercially or specially made by pro turners demonstrating at symposiums.
I've describe it often and brought some to symposiums where people met me and made tracings and asked Doug Thompson to duplicate the grind.

Ground from round stock, a spindle detail gouge, and a piece of bar stock.
Sometimes I grind a different NRS on the other end.
I keep scrapers in a variety of shapes and sizes and find them all useful at one time or another.
View attachment 69883

And here's another special scraper (not NRS) I ground from an old tool,
custom made only to turn a recess when the tailstock was in the way so another type of tool wouldn't work.
View attachment 69884

These were all ground on CBN wheels but you can also use conventional grinding wheels or even coarse belt/disk sanders to reshape.

JKJ

Hello, thank you so much for all the detailed information, as well as the time you took to post the pictures and explanations. I really appreciate all the recommendations and considerations you’ve shared regarding reshaping square scrapers.

I have a small collection of tools, including some from Robert Sorby, Crown, Hamlet, and Glenn Lucas. I also purchased some square blanks from Robert Sorby and shaped them myself. And also made my burnisher from a broken carbide end mill.

Currently, I only have oxide wheels in 120 and 60 grit. I hope to get some CBN wheels in the future, and when I do, I’ll definitely ask for your recommendations.

This is a great forum, and I’m really happy to have guidance from experts like you.



Thanks again!

 

[Jamie Straw]

Thanks so much! I plan to reshape it using my Rikon slow-speed grinder (1/2 HP) with a 60-grit wheel. When I worked on a Robert Sorby square scraper, I did it in a few passes, stopping in between to prevent overheating. The process was very quick and effective, but I’ve never tried this with any HSS M42 steel before.

Perfect! I've reground 4 different scrapers to NRS, it's FUN.

 

[Michael Perez]

Perfect! I've reground 4 different scrapers to NRS, it's FUN.

Thanks so much, definitely now I feel more confident to work any square scraper as blank and shape it to my needs.

 

[John K Jordan]

thank you so much for all the detailed information

One point about grinding NRS, not sure if it was pointed out here: The included angle needs to be no more than 90 degrees. 89-deg will work but smaller works better. Some recommend 70 degrees. I’ve made some I think are closer to 60 but I haven’t measured recently. Remember, even an edge sharpened like a skew will work as a NRS if it has a burr.

JKJ

 

[robo hippy]

I may have one square nose scraper, and it is used specifically for boxes, and for making the recess and tenon for the boxes and it goes in a jig so I don't have to measure every time. Video coming eventually....
Other than that, my scrapers are all what used to be called "inside" scrapers, which were specifically for the insides of a bowl. The old "outside scrapers" were for when you mounted a blank and turned to finish without reversing the bowl blank. The inside scrapers are swept back to the right side. They also work great for shaping the outside of a bowl. If I use a round nose scraper for plunging down the outside of a bowl blank when turning the bottom of the bowl, it won't make a straight plunge, and always bounces to the outside rather than going straight. ARGH! The square edge of an "inside scraper" works better. I do have a slight straight edge on the nose, then it sweeps back a bit.

robo hippy

 

[Michael Perez]

One point about grinding NRS, not sure if it was pointed out here: The included angle needs to be no more than 90 degrees. 89-deg will work but smaller works better. Some recommend 70 degrees. I’ve made some I think are closer to 60 but I haven’t measured recently. Remember, even an edge sharpened like a skew will work as a NRS if it has a burr.

JKJ

Hello, thank you so much for your additional and important considerations! I’m fairly new to working with angles and haven’t used scrapers much before. Recently, I shaped a scraper for making small 3”-5” boxes using a Robert Sorby blank (3/4” wide and 1/4” thick). After checking, I found it’s 29° on top and 58° at the bottom.

Do you have any recommendations regarding this setup?

I also have a Carter & Son 1” wide and 3/8” thick nose scraper, which I’m considering reshaping into a skew. My current 3/4 skew has 25° on each side (50° included). Would you recommend the same angle setup for the new one?

Thanks so much.

 

[Michael Perez]

I may have one square nose scraper, and it is used specifically for boxes, and for making the recess and tenon for the boxes and it goes in a jig so I don't have to measure every time. Video coming eventually....
Other than that, my scrapers are all what used to be called "inside" scrapers, which were specifically for the insides of a bowl. The old "outside scrapers" were for when you mounted a blank and turned to finish without reversing the bowl blank. The inside scrapers are swept back to the right side. They also work great for shaping the outside of a bowl. If I use a round nose scraper for plunging down the outside of a bowl blank when turning the bottom of the bowl, it won't make a straight plunge, and always bounces to the outside rather than going straight. ARGH! The square edge of an "inside scraper" works better. I do have a slight straight edge on the nose, then it sweeps back a bit.

robo hippy

Thank you so much for your detailed response! It’s really helpful to understand the differences between inside and outside scrapers, as well as how they’re used. I also appreciate the tip about using the square edge of an inside scraper for straight plunges—I’ll definitely keep that in mind!

I’m now seriously considering converting my 1” Carter & Son nose scraper into a skew. What do you think? Would it be a good idea for versatility, or should I keep it as a scraper?

 

[John K Jordan]

Recently, I shaped a scraper for making small 3”-5” boxes using a Robert Sorby blank (3/4” wide and 1/4” thick). After checking, I found it’s 29° on top and 58° at the bottom.

Do you have any recommendations regarding this setup?

I also have a Carter & Son 1” wide and 3/8” thick nose scraper, which I’m considering reshaping into a skew. My current 3/4 skew has 25° on each side (50° included). Would you recommend the same angle setup for the new one?

58+29 is pretty close to 90 degrees included angle. You might experiment and leave the top alone and see if changing the bottom angle to 40-degrees or less feels and cuts any better. Some of my favorite negative rake scrapers (the three curved ones with the straight ends in the first photo earlier) have about a 60-degree included angle and work well.

I grind the same angle on the bottom for a couple of reasons: 1, because I’m lazy and set the tool rest to one angle and grind both sides, and 2, since I can decide after grinding (and deburring) to burnish the burr on one side or the other - the curve one way may work better for some shapes, say on the outside of a piece while curved the other way might be easier to use on the inside. That’s why I write “T” to indicate which is the top so I won’t pick up one and accidentally try to use it with the burr down. With the bevels the same, if I want to change one from simply have to use an extra fine diamond hone to remove the burr and make a new burr going the opposite direction.

Conventional scrapers are sometimes made thick to make them stronger and flex less under heavy cuts with long overhangs. Skews, on the other hand, are often used with more finesse than force. That said, a 3/8” thick skew seems kind of thick to me. I think most of my skews are much thinner. For one thing, a thick skew ground to the same included angle as a thinner one would have a much longer bevel and take longer to grind. Ground on a 8” wheel the concavity could be deeper too, either changing the geometry or even limiting the use unless the heel is ground back a bit. (often a good idea anyway!)

A bit about skew included angles:
I have skews from about 35-deg included angle (or a little less) to about 60 degrees. The smaller the angle, the easier it may cut but one with a larger angle can be more forgiving. I sometimes hand the 60-deg skew to a beginner to use until they get the hang of making good planing cuts, then hand them a different one to try. I think it’s important for a beginner to experience different grinds, not only the included angle but the skew angle and how a curved edge compares to a straight edge. (I don’t want them to get too comfortable with one grind and be unable to adapt easily to another!)

Another thing about included angles - with certain operations on certain types of wood, the included angle of the skew can be better or worse. For one example, when turning thin spindles with certain specific pieces of osage orange, if I use a skew with a small included angle, say 35-deg, I may get a lot of chipping from the spindle - long fibers are pried out. If I switch to a skew with a 60-deg included angle, the cut is usually better on THAT piece of wood! (a skew with a curved edge is also sometimes better. However, most of the time I prefer a smaller included angle. The moral of this story is different included angles can behave differently - I sometimes switch arbitrarily while making cuts on the same piece just to feel how that skew works. (It helps to have a rack of skews at hand!)

Oh, a curved edge is better for some operations, such as peeling, since the edge at the long point can be closer to straight across. However, I far prefer the point on a straight edge when cutting deep “v” grooves.

JKJ

 

[robo hippy]

Thank you so much for your detailed response! It’s really helpful to understand the differences between inside and outside scrapers, as well as how they’re used. I also appreciate the tip about using the square edge of an inside scraper for straight plunges—I’ll definitely keep that in mind!

I’m now seriously considering converting my 1” Carter & Son nose scraper into a skew. What do you think? Would it be a good idea for versatility, or should I keep it as a scraper?

Michael, I have a bunch of videos on You Tube, mostly dedicated to bowl turning, just search for robo hippy. I do show how I use scrapers. I use them far more than most do. I consider them to be the most efficient tool for roughing out bowls.

robo hippy

 

[Michael Perez]

58+29 is pretty close to 90 degrees included angle. You might experiment and leave the top alone and see if changing the bottom angle to 40-degrees or less feels and cuts any better. Some of my favorite negative rake scrapers (the three curved ones with the straight ends in the first photo earlier) have about a 60-degree included angle and work well.

I grind the same angle on the bottom for a couple of reasons: 1, because I’m lazy and set the tool rest to one angle and grind both sides, and 2, since I can decide after grinding (and deburring) to burnish the burr on one side or the other - the curve one way may work better for some shapes, say on the outside of a piece while curved the other way might be easier to use on the inside. That’s why I write “T” to indicate which is the top so I won’t pick up one and accidentally try to use it with the burr down. With the bevels the same, if I want to change one from simply have to use an extra fine diamond hone to remove the burr and make a new burr going the opposite direction.

Conventional scrapers are sometimes made thick to make them stronger and flex less under heavy cuts with long overhangs. Skews, on the other hand, are often used with more finesse than force. That said, a 3/8” thick skew seems kind of thick to me. I think most of my skews are much thinner. For one thing, a thick skew ground to the same included angle as a thinner one would have a much longer bevel and take longer to grind. Ground on a 8” wheel the concavity could be deeper too, either changing the geometry or even limiting the use unless the heel is ground back a bit. (often a good idea anyway!)

A bit about skew included angles:
I have skews from about 35-deg included angle (or a little less) to about 60 degrees. The smaller the angle, the easier it may cut but one with a larger angle can be more forgiving. I sometimes hand the 60-deg skew to a beginner to use until they get the hang of making good planing cuts, then hand them a different one to try. I think it’s important for a beginner to experience different grinds, not only the included angle but the skew angle and how a curved edge compares to a straight edge. (I don’t want them to get too comfortable with one grind and be unable to adapt easily to another!)

Another thing about included angles - with certain operations on certain types of wood, the included angle of the skew can be better or worse. For one example, when turning thin spindles with certain specific pieces of osage orange, if I use a skew with a small included angle, say 35-deg, I may get a lot of chipping from the spindle - long fibers are pried out. If I switch to a skew with a 60-deg included angle, the cut is usually better on THAT piece of wood! (a skew with a curved edge is also sometimes better. However, most of the time I prefer a smaller included angle. The moral of this story is different included angles can behave differently - I sometimes switch arbitrarily while making cuts on the same piece just to feel how that skew works. (It helps to have a rack of skews at hand!)

Oh, a curved edge is better for some operations, such as peeling, since the edge at the long point can be closer to straight across. However, I far prefer the point on a straight edge when cutting deep “v” grooves.

JKJ

Hello,thank you so much for taking the time to provide such a detailed and thoughtful explanation! I really appreciate all the insights, especially about included angles and how different angles and grinds behave with various types of wood.
I currently have two skews:
1. A curved Crown HSS skew, 3/4” wide, 1/4” thick, with a 50° included angle (25°+25°).
2. A 1/2” straight-edge skew that I primarily use for pen turning because the curved skew tends to leave a hollow shape, especially near the tip.
I agree that 3/8” seems quite thick for a skew, but I was curious because Carter & Son sells a 1” curved skew made from 3/4” rod, and it’s also 3/8” thick. I’m considering reshaping their 1” nose scraper into a skew, but I’m unsure if the thickness would be a drawback. What do you think?I also agree that having the same angle on both sides is much more practical and versatile. First, there’s no need to adjust the platform, and second, by simply changing the burr direction, you can switch between a right or left scraper. So, do you think a top angle of 30° and bottom angle of 30° (60° included) would be a good choice? Or would a 20°/40° setup have some advantage or specific characteristics worth considering?
Thanks again for sharing your expertise—I’ve learned so much from your response

 

[Michael Perez]

Michael, I have a bunch of videos on You Tube, mostly dedicated to bowl turning, just search for robo hippy. I do show how I use scrapers. I use them far more than most do. I consider them to be the most efficient tool for roughing out bowls.

robo hippy

Thank you so much!, I’ll definitely take a look at your videos. While I focus on making boxes, I’m sure I can learn a lot about using scrapers from your techniques and also gain a better understanding of bowl turning.



Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!

 

[John K Jordan]

Carter & Son sells a 1” curved skew made from 3/4” rod, and it’s also 3/8” thick. I’m considering reshaping their 1” nose scraper into a skew, but I’m unsure if the thickness would be a drawback. What do you think?I also agree that having the same angle on both sides is much more practical and versatile. First, there’s no need to adjust the platform, and second, by simply changing the burr direction, you can switch between a right or left scraper. So, do you think a top angle of 30° and bottom angle of 30° (60° included) would be a good choice? Or would a 20°/40° setup have some advantage or specific characteristics worth considering?
Thanks again for sharing your expertise—I’ve learned so much from your response

I'm missing something. How do they get a 1" skew, 3/8" thick, from a 3/4" rod? I've already guessed about the thick skew but I don't have experience with one so I can't say more.

You might get a little cleaner cut in SOME materials with a shallower top angle. I grind some of my smaller NRS made from 1/4" round and rectangular rod that way - on good wood I can often make glass-smooth details that even 800 grit sandpaper couldn't improve. Not so for some other types of wood.

The curved NRS I showed are highly controllable and do remove tool marks from gouges and such, but I follow them with hand scrapers and fine sanding (600 grit, sometimes 400), sometimes with a gentle pneumatic ROS running at very slow speed, sometimes with hand sanding. Note that NRS are almost always used held firmly flat against the rest, with the tool horizontal. Those made with round rod can be rotated but still held horizontally.

JKJ.

 

[Michael Perez]

I'm missing something. How do they get a 1" skew, 3/8" thick, from a 3/4" rod? I've already guessed about the thick skew but I don't have experience with one so I can't say more.

You might get a little cleaner cut in SOME materials with a shallower top angle. I grind some of my smaller NRS made from 1/4" round and rectangular rod that way - on good wood I can often make glass-smooth details that even 800 grit sandpaper couldn't improve. Not so for some other types of wood.

The curved NRS I showed are highly controllable and do remove tool marks from gouges and such, but I follow them with hand scrapers and fine sanding (600 grit, sometimes 400), sometimes with a gentle pneumatic ROS running at very slow speed, sometimes with hand sanding. Note that NRS are almost always used held firmly flat against the rest, with the tool horizontal. Those made with round rod can be rotated but still held horizontally.

JKJ.

Thank you so much for your response! I really appreciate your insights. I may be misunderstanding something since English isn’t my native language. I’m attaching a picture to show what I mean about the 1” skew made from a 3/4” rod, as I understand it.

Your explanation about the NRS and shallow top angle is very helpful. I’ll definitely try that on different materials to see how it works. Also, I appreciate the tips on using hand scrapers and fine sanding. I’ve become a fan of wet sanding with Dr. Woodshop walnut oil and 400 or 600 grit sandpaper. However, when working with segmented wood, I try to use the skew the best I can and avoid sanding, as the wood color can affect the staining and distort the colors of lighter woods. Currently, I mostly make pens, but I’m planning to turn boxes as well.



Thanks again for your help!

 

[Michael Perez]

I'm missing something. How do they get a 1" skew, 3/8" thick, from a 3/4" rod? I've already guessed about the thick skew but I don't have experience with one so I can't say more.

You might get a little cleaner cut in SOME materials with a shallower top angle. I grind some of my smaller NRS made from 1/4" round and rectangular rod that way - on good wood I can often make glass-smooth details that even 800 grit sandpaper couldn't improve. Not so for some other types of wood.

The curved NRS I showed are highly controllable and do remove tool marks from gouges and such, but I follow them with hand scrapers and fine sanding (600 grit, sometimes 400), sometimes with a gentle pneumatic ROS running at very slow speed, sometimes with hand sanding. Note that NRS are almost always used held firmly flat against the rest, with the tool horizontal. Those made with round rod can be rotated but still held horizontally.

JKJ.

I got it! you are right it need to be more than 3/4 rod,
Because 3/4 is the tang that goes into the handle.

 

[Dean Center]

Michael, I would not spend the high price on a Carter & sons tool for something you're going to change, especially if it's more than once. Changing the grind removes a bunch of steel. I suggest you get a nice, budget priced M2 steel scraper and experiment with that. Then in 5-15 years, when you've worn it out, you'll know what you like in such a tool, and you can spend a little more to get a nice M42 steel scraper to grind once to the final shape.

 

[Michael Perez]

Michael, I would not spend the high price on a Carter & sons tool for something you're going to change, especially if it's more than once. Changing the grind removes a bunch of steel. I suggest you get a nice, budget priced M2 steel scraper and experiment with that. When you've discovered what you like in such a tool, you can spend a little more and get a nice M42 steel scraper to grind once to the final shape.

Thanks so much, I couldn’t agree more with you. When I planned to reshape, I just bought a Robert Sorby square as a blank and unhandled.
This time, I also chose the square nose, thinking of it as a blank, and if I decide to reshape it, it will be just one time. I had to decide if it was going to be a negative scraper or a skew.