stains in lathe Ways

[Ed Jarvis]

I have used Evaporust or T9 Bioshield wire brush on my drill to try and get the rust stains out of the ways is there a better way?

Ed

 

[Monty Ivy]

Johnson's paste wax and a green scotch-bright pad. Add a heaping helping of elbow grease.

 

[Richard Coers]

The best way is to prevent rust before it starts. Is your rust from shop conditions or turning wet wood?

 

[Dave Bunge]

Johnson's paste wax and a green scotch-bright pad. Add a heaping helping of elbow grease.

I'll second that recommendation.

I used to use Bioshield or other "rust preventer" or even WD-40 with a green Scotchbrite pad to remove rust. They all worked equally well at removing rust. But the rust came back quickly when I turned green oak or cherry or walnut, the woods high in tannins.

Once I started using paste wax on the ways after removing the rust, they stayed rust free much longer. Now, if there is just light rust, I remove it with paste wax on the scotch brite pad. If there is heavy rust, I'll still use WD-40 with the pad, since it seems to lift/wash away the rust particles better, but then follow up by applying wax similar to how I would wax a car.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

For more than cosmetic surface rust I'd use Evapo-Rust, either enough to immerse the part if it is severe, or for lighter surface rust use soaked paper towels wrapped in plastic to keep the surface wet overnight. A couple repeats as required. Then follow with scotchbrite or wire wheels and the lubricant of your choice. If you're talking about the dark stain that remains after the rust has been removed from cast iron, simply enjoy it as part of the patina that makes older machines special.

Flap sanders and wire wheels on an angle grinder that welders use to clean up welds can make quick work of tough spots, but be aware that if you overdo it the surface can be made noticeably not flat.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I’ve used this metal polish very successfully. I think I first learned of it from Glen Lucas. Great for taking out rust stains and protecting the bed. It’s gotten a bit more expensive lately, so I am trying something new, but don’t yet have enough experience to report.

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[Doug Freeman]

I 2nd Roger’s advice for evaporust - great stuff. And agree - leave the black stain. Tried many products, silicone free wax works best all around, ease of application, protection level, friction, cost.

 

[robo hippy]

My PM3520A had a nice black lathe bed when I sold it. To me, once it rusts, even a tiny bit, the stain never totally goes away. Just brush it off, use a grey synthetic steel wool pad, maybe some paste wax/bowling alley wax/kiwi neutral shoe polish, and you are good to go. You do not want to leave it unattended. Get the surface stuff off!

robo hippy

 

[Tim Connell]

I keep a coarse steel wool pad in my container of Johnson's paste wax. When rust appears, scrub it off and wipe excess with paper towels.

My shop is in an unheated machine shed with a dirt floor so the machines go through a full range of temps, humidity and excessive condensation. Keep a coat of wax on everything and you'll be good to go.

I'm not vain enough to want to try to remove the black stains, they don't affect performance, so I don't care. If I tried to keep everything pristine, I'd never get any work done.

 

[John Hicks]

Nothing will STOP rust and discoleration from turning green wood. I use paste wax and keep an air blower close by to blow off the chips.

 

[Mike Johnson]

If you clean the ways several times a year and get down to bare metal, you can apply several coats of T9 let it dry and then apply several coats of paste wax, this will protect the ways and improve the movement of your tail stock and banjo. Wipe the ways clean after each use and you will minimize the staining of the ways.