Starting from Scratch

[Kennith Gosnell]

Trimming trees and have a nice pile started. Any suggestions on what to look for when cutting up for different projects? I have a mix of Oak, Elm, Eastern redbud and pecan up to 18" diameter on the ground now plus another 22 pecan trees left to trim.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I'd spend time getting the crotch pieces processed, sealed, etc. As for the branches, I would leave them in log form. Cut some blanks from the bigger pieces, seal the end grain, and set them aside to dry. Also, rough turn some of them for a second turning a year or so down the road. I have yet to cut down an Eastern redbud, but I have been told it cracks really badly. You may want to get some of that processed if the tree is big enough for bowls. Most redbuds are pretty small.

 

[John K Jordan]

I have yet to cut down an Eastern redbud, but I have been told it cracks really badly. You may want to get some of that processed if the tree is big enough for bowls.

I had to remove a Redbud. The trees around here don’t get very big, so I cut in into 2.5x2.5” and smaller spindle blanks and dried. The wood I have is fairly colorful, although the colors are muted. All dried successfully and were easy to turn - the wood is relatively soft and fine-grained, at least what I have.

@Kennith Gosnell, not knowing the projects I can’t help with advice for what to look for in the logs/branches (besides interesting figure and sound wood), but do have some comments about handling the wood.

In my experience oak and hickory/pecan moves and checks/cracks readily, especially where end grain is exposed by a chainsaw cut on a log or chunk. Best advice I heard was to quickly turn it green, and if that’s not possible, leave it in log form and when ready to turn, chainsaw away any end cracks, cut a blank, turn it green. Since I don’t often turn green, I prefer to process sections of logs small enough to fit on my shop bandsaw, cut into rectangular blanks for spindles, bowls, vessels, and such, seal with Anchorseal, and air dry them. When processing green wood to dry stay away from the pith and juvenile wood which is particularly unstable. If interested, I posted a video on this forum showing how I do all this with green log sections.

If not handled properly, you will primarily be making firewood - I’ve seen so much potentially good turning wood go that direction.

I had a big red oak (12 to 27”dia) come down in a storm in May but due to circumstances I couldn’t get to it until last week. I had it cut up into 32” lengths, loaded it in the dump trailer, and hauled it to a guy who sells firewood. He sure was happy! - it was probably over 5 tons of wood. Better than letting it rot on the ground for years or have to pit-burn the chunks to clean up the incredible mess. (Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to call woodturners to come for pieces of this one.)

Be aware that some green wood can be quickly infested with power post beetles unless exposed endgrain is treated quickly with something like Boracare or a heavy coat of paint. Note that Anchorseal won’t stop PPBs if working outside - once I was cutting and sealing chunks of maple logs at my open garage door and watched adult PPBs fly from the direction of the woods (presumably attracted by the smell) and land on freshly cut and Anchorsealed maple, dig right through the wax and start boring to lay eggs - I had to run and grab some insecticide to spray the log ends! Once they get into green wood they can chew tunnels for years and ruin good wood.

JKJ