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superglue protection

That's great, but depending on the finish I'm planning on putting on the piece, I'll use the finish before glueing up any cracks and that seem to work keeping the glue from spreading into the surrounding wood and staining it.
Thanks for the infomation.
 
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fgvanatta said:
Inexpensive sanding sealer - I use 1# cut shellac - works just fine.
Click to expand...

I do the same here Frank - I use a 1 pound cut of ultrablonde shellac as a sanding sealer and to protect from uncontrolled spread of thin CA glue, particularly on light-colored woods. Works pretty well for me too...

Rob
 
Haven't tried the waxlit, Gretch, but ditto on the shellac. I use spray Zinsser shellac sealer. Goes on easy, dries quick, seals enough to stop the staining. It contains no wax in case that would interfere with your finish. Sands off easy too. I've tried using accelerator immediately after applying the CA, but doesn't work as well (it must penetrate too quickly for this to work).

If it's a finished piece that needs some thin CA (i.e., bark repair), then I might use some wax, then apply the CA, then accelerator, then buff. However, like some have said, if it already has a finish then the CA won't penetrate and stain anyway.
 
I too use sanding sealer (cellulose type) and it usually helps-not always tho-also use some walnut oil. Again Not always-maybe it's because it is soft "punkyish" spalted wood at times. I try to use it at the 220 grit level and apply SS with or without walnut oil, and then sand while the glue is still unset(I use the odorless thin superglue and it takes a minute or 2 before setting up.

If the sanding dealer /finish creeps into the crack, how effective is the superglue???? Gretch
 
Mark Levitski said:
I've tried using accelerator immediately after applying the CA, but doesn't work as well (it must penetrate too quickly for this to work).
Click to expand...

Try a spritz before you wick. The surface will flash and penetrate very little.

I generally work cracks as soon as they're revealed, because I don't like surprise demonstrations of centrifugal forces. Turning with a known and unrepaired weak spot is too risky.
 
I just put a layer of whatever my finish is going to be. That way I can sand any glue off and just put more finish on later. Using the same finish makes compatibility questions a non problem.
 
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