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Table Saw Blade Definition

D

Dennis Weiner

Joined
Jan 3, 2012
Messages
463
Likes
388
Location
New City, NY
I wish to cut 1" Aluminum Rod and 1.5" Plexiglas Rod on my table saw to make some Handles. I found this old Delta 10 x80 blade bought years ago that I think will do the job. I searched for delta model 35 625 and there was very little info out there. It does say it's CF&T. Does anyone know what this means and can this 80 tooth blade configuration cut nonferrous metals?
 
I would recommend using a bandsaw for both of those materials. Cutting a cylinder on the tablesaw is inviting a severe kickback if the cylinder rolls not to mention aluminum particles flying all over your shop. Cutting Plexiglas on the tablesaw is also problematic because it will melt and possibly cause a kickback.
 
Safety first; if it seems a little dodgy, that’s your common sense screaming at you! Don’t ask me how I know; common sense is hard to hear echoing around in my empty dome!!
 
I agree with Bill. At the very least make a V shaped block for your miter gauge and then clamp the rod and V block to the miter gauge fence. You should also use a V block when cutting rods on the bandsaw.
 
For the aluminum tell your supplier the lengths that you need and pay the cutting fee.
The plexiglass would be best clamped in a V block and cut on the band saw with the aid of the miter gauge (very gently moved into the blade).
 
When cutting aluminum I put a smear of paste wax on the cut line and it melts and lubes the cut. There is a high likelihood you will weld your table saw blade inside that acrylic rod from too much friction.
 
To add to the above, I think a different blade and/or tooth set is used for cutting plexiglass. I would expect that your supplier could cut them for you.

robo hippy
 
Wow. Thanks for asking this question. I would never have thought of the issues commenters have raised. Even though I have no plan to cut these materials in the near future, I've learned a lot and will keep it stored away for reference.
 
All good advice, but nobody answered Dennis’s question. Does anyone know what the CF&T on his blade means?
And yes, if taken slowly, most 80 tooth 10” blades will have no trouble with aluminum. But all the cautions already mentioned about cutting round stock apply.
 
Lou Jacobs said:
All good advice, but nobody answered Dennis’s question. Does anyone know what the CF&T on his blade means?
And yes, if taken slowly, most 80 tooth 10” blades will have no trouble with aluminum. But all the cautions already mentioned about cutting round stock apply.
Click to expand...

I should have mentioned that I searched for the answer, but came up empty handed. I did see one Delta blade with the same letters in a different order, but no explanation of what the letters mean. We’re all familiar with abbreviations such as ATB (alternate top bevel). The letter “C” might stand for “Combination“, but I’m at a loss to explain “F&T”.
 
Thanks to all. I appreciate the concern for safety and I’m happy for all the responses. When cutting material other than wood with your power tools there are different and additional procedures required to protect the user, materials and equipment. Thanks for bringing that out.

After a little more googling, I inspected the blade concluding that every other tooth is Triple chipped with a flat tooth separating them. The triple chip is the tooth configuration on most dedicated nonferrous blades. I was considering buying a dedicated non ferrous blade like the Freud Diablo 1080n if the Delta wasn’t a candidate.
 
The information that I found on the alternate triple chip / flat tooth grind is that it is for cutting nonferrous sheet metal and relatively thin-walled aluminum tubing. It was also recommended to use a misting coolant and lubrication system. This doesn't sound like a typical woodworking tablesaw. I got the impression that 1" diameter aluminum bar stock might be a bit too much for that blade.
 
Thanks Bill. Regarding my legacy saw blade, That's exactly the info that I was looking for. I sense you are still a little skeptical about cutting aluminum on a woodworking table saw. Here is a short video that I found this morning that addresses some of the safety concerns and lubrication.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoubVW08Wy4


BTW my blade looks exactly like the one being used in the video: Alternating teeth and a 5-degree negative rake. There are many more YouTubes on the topic of cutting and machining aluminum with woodworking tools.

In the past, I have been using a sled and have always secured the workpiece. (ALuminum going airborne is far worse than wood.) I have cut 1/4 Aluminum angle beams with my 60T with no problem. My 80 tooth blade should give me a smoother finish.

Thanks all.
 
I have cut aluminum on both table saw and bandsaw. I prefer the bandsaw but both work. For the table saw just about any carbide blade will work, have used Diablo 40 tooth general purpose blades and they cut well. Make sure you wear eye protection, and recommend a face mask, lots of chips will fly.
 
Dennis Weiner said:
I sense you are still a little skeptical about cutting aluminum on a woodworking table saw.
Click to expand...

Not really skeptical that it can be done because I have done it a very long time ago, but for a multitude of reasons I wouldn’t do it again. I didn’t like fine metal particles all over my shop, inside my tablesaw, and on my clothing. I have also cut aluminum flashing on a bandsaw and while less messy, cleaning the particles out of the saw especially the metal embedded in the tires wasn’t something that I care to do again. I’ll do as Don suggested and pay somebody else to mess up their shop.
 
I should add that my experience was before the World Wide Web version of the Internet and YouTube. The saw blade was a Craftsman general purpose carpentry grade blade. It wasn’t a blade that I would recommend for fine woodworking.
 
Bill Boehme said:
Not really skeptical that it can be done because I have done it a very long time ago, but for a multitude of reasons I wouldn’t do it again. I didn’t like fine metal particles all over my shop, inside my tablesaw, and on my clothing. I
Click to expand...
This.
That's why I'll always head for the hacksaw for metal cutting like that. So much faster to just do it by hand, and easy enough to cut them square if you have your hacksaw set up properly (Tension, etc) with a good (or new) blade. Anything that hacksaw can't handle, goes to local welding shop... I have no interest in cleaning up a mess of fine metal (or acrylic/polyurethane/plastic/resin) particles all over the place. (other than the very small amount of shavings from the lathe when I might turn some embellishments added to a bowl or something, which really aren't much of a problem as they don't go flying everywhere)
 
Mark Jundanian said:
@Dennis Weiner , are you just doing this once, or do you need to make multiple cuts?
Click to expand...
I already cut the Plexiglass rod and decided to put this handle on hold. (BTW, it was "step-cut" in three passes and yes it was clamped and secured on my table saw sled. Very slight melt).
I am creating a demo for my club on constructing cam-action handles as mentioned in prior posts. So I will be cutting and photographing. In the past, my theme has always been to use the tools that you have(woodworking related) to create various accessories. I will probably cut aluminum tubes and round bar stock while prototyping. However, I will not be cutting Aluminum in any volume. There has been an expressed interest by club members to make their own handles other than the traditional wooden handles. Possible resulting in a club volume order of ALuminum. Of course, I will have it cut to size by the supplier!

The reason for this post was to determine if anyone knew anything about my no longer made saw blade. @Bill Boehme resolved it for me. I was interested in getting a better cut on the aluminum and plexiglass in order to reduce deburring and sanding of the material after the cut. I am not a stranger to cutting various materials on my shop equipment, especially aluminum. I probably would not have attempted cutting Aluminum on my table saw but in my working years, I had a client that was a window and storefront manufacturer. Their factory cut aluminum on table and chop saws all day long. I gained confidence that it was a normal thing to do with the proper equipment and safety protocols. Over the years, I have made many woodturning accessories for one reason or the other comfortably. When the pandemic hit and we were all stuck in the house, I put together a presentation for a zoom demo for one of the clubs of which I am a member.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lb4CuD_imk


It is fairly long, but you can fast forward it. Some of the projects displayed were a Laser Story Boarding system, use of crotch center, drilling steel on a wood lathe, a batty style arch-shaped aluminum platform fabricated with a router, and a sharpening system out of aluminum extrusions for the Tradesman Grinder.
 
Hi, Dennis-
I have a Freud non-ferrous metal blade that I use for cutting aluminum. Or I use my Forrest TCG blade. I have cut both aluminum and plastics on my radial arm saw. I clamp the material I'm cutting to the fence, so it doesn't move during the cut.
I'm looking forward to your demo. IIRC, it's in June, right?
 
Bob Sheppard said:
Hi, Dennis-
I have a Freud non-ferrous metal blade that I use for cutting aluminum. Or I use my Forrest TCG blade. I have cut both aluminum and plastics on my radial arm saw. I clamp the material I'm cutting to the fence, so it doesn't move during the cut.
I'm looking forward to your demo. IIRC, it's in June, right?
Click to expand...
There is nothing officially scheduled with NJWT yet. Its scheduled in May for HVWT, my other club. We don’t even know if HVWT will meet in person or IRD. In the next 1.5 months I’ll be making video clips, instructions etc which will cover either. When we firm up, I’ll send you an invite, if you’d like.
 
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