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Tailstock quill lubricant?

Michael Anderson

Michael Anderson

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What do you all recommend for quill lube? In the past I’ve occasionally wiped it down with linseed oil, knowing that it probably wasn’t the best idea. I’d like to do it right now. I’ve looked around online and the myriad recommendations range from machinist oil to 20W engine oil, to silicone oil. Anyway, is there a consensus on what is best or preferable?

Thanks for the advice!
 
I'm not sure about best. My requirements for a lubricant in my small shop are simple. No smell, no drip and non toxic.
Non toxic because I use it on everything including ways, chucks, threads and tools so I get it on my hands all the time.
I melt just enough bee's wax into mineral oil to make a soft paste, then wipe it on everything...
Fast and easy so you will use it often which is good for the equipment.
HEADS UP: Paraffin wax does not work well. Yes, it melts into the oil just fine, but as it cools it tends to separate. My experience, results may very.
Have fun!
 
For the acme screw threads I use grease - they are not exposed to dust. Everything else on the quill and the rest of the friction surfaces get Johnson’s or other no silicone furniture past wax.
 
I just use WD40. I wipe down my kathe bed at least once a week if not sooner. I remove the quill about once a month and wipe it down and spray the the threads. I wipe down the underside of the banjo and the banjo cam. I used to use wax but the WD40 is so fast.
 
I use balistol and Wd40

Balistol works better and is long lasting 3 days to a week - I hate the smell so it has become an end of the day application when needed

4D40 works for shorter period 1 day - like the smell so it is my go to product during the day that balistol decides not to be as smooth as it should be.
 
I'm like most southern DIY folks, wipe it down and spray a little WD40 on. No, I don't have it in a belt holster (they do make them) but it's so easy and quick. Not really a good long term lubricant but does repel water and if you wipe it after use it doesn't seem to attract a lot of gunk on the quill. Most everything I turn is green and wet so no matter what I put on I need to screw it all the way out and wipe it down after each piece anyway. Sure there are much better solutions. When I take it apart and clean the threads inside I do use some regular grease from my grease gun.
 
Thank you all for the suggestions. I think I have a pretty good strategy now.

Bill and Doug Johnson’s paste wax is a classic. I’ve never thought about it for the quill, but it does seems like a good solution for the ways/banjo.

Thanks for the dry lube tip Ron. I’m leaning toward that for the longer-term solution. Though, I’ll have to look into Boeshield like Lynn mentioned.

I appreciate the WD-49 mentions as well. I think there is sometimes a stigma about it, but it is certainly handy in a lot of situations. In fact, I just ran out and need to re-up.

Randy, your comment made me laugh. I don’t know if you’ve watched King of the Hill, but there is an episodes where Hank struggles to pop the top off his WD40 canister. He pulls a mini-can from his holster and sprays it on the the bigger can’s too. Problem solved! Haha.
 
Randy, good to hear. One of my favorite shows, for sure. I lived in San Antonio for a few years, so have a tiny connection to the Texas culture. I’ll try not to get too off topic with King of the Hill, but you’ll appreciate this. My wife and I have a toddler running around, and he’s currently in the 5am wake up phase. I think she’s tired of me saying “it’s 6am and already the boy ain’t right” haha. Anyway…
 
Ron Solfest said:
I would recommend a dry lube, not anything that would attract the dust that’s ever present
Click to expand...
This. Most of the lubrication in my shop is done with a silicone free dry lubricant. PB Blaster Dry Lube is what I normally use. Surfaces (table saw bed, lathe ways, bandsaw table, etc.) get waxed as needed. I do have some grease I use occasionally on parts that are sealed and not subject to dust accumulation. At leasr, I *think* I have some grease. Have not used it in some time now.
 
I use WD40 mostly. I buy WD40 by the gallon and use their spray bottle. Most economical way.

Though I have used Johnson's paste wax. I think I paid $6 for the can I have now. I think JPW has been discontinued. Maybe why the higher prices of what you can find. Perhaps the Minwax product is about the same? Dunno. As another lubricant that is nontoxic: fluidfilm. I love that stuff.
 
Looks like it might not be too hard to make in the shop. Deodorized Naptha (aka White Spirit aka Mineral Spirits - depending on where you are), Carnauba wax, paraffin wax, micro-crystalline wax. All can be bought on Amazon, however the price for the solvent is rather high. There is an SC Johnson site that not only lists what is in the product, but also what it does in the product. Extrapolating from there, it might not be too hard to come up with the correct ratio of ingredients. Yes, I have some of those ingredients on order. Once I clear a bit of shop space, I will get to work on some testing. Of course, I will share once I think I have it right.
 
Tim Starliper said:
Deodorized Naptha (aka White Spirit aka Mineral Spirits
Click to expand...

Naphtha AKA lighter fluid isn't the same thing as mineral spirits AKA Stoddard solvent AKA paint thinner. I'm not sure how to deodorize naphtha, perhaps ethylene brassylate or sodium bicarbonate.
 
All lubricants suggested will work but there is a detail to be aware of. The Morse taper should be clean and dry since the metal to metal fit is a self holding taper. This is most important when drilling, but a revolving center, not so much.
 
I've used Boeshield and paste wax on the lathe bed, and though the Boeshield creates a slick surface, is higher tech and more expensive, I really can't tell the difference between it and well buffed paste wax. I have both a can of Johnson's and a can of Minwax paste wax, and they seem like the same stuff. If Johnson's is discontinued, that might be an option.
 
Like Dean, I've used both Johnson's and Minwax. At least outwardly, I don't see any difference.

Surprised Johnson discontinued such an iconic product, but I imagine someone was counting beans and came up one short.
 
Bill Boehme said:
Naphtha AKA lighter fluid isn't the same thing as mineral spirits AKA Stoddard solvent AKA paint thinner. I'm not sure how to deodorize naphtha, perhaps ethylene brassylate or sodium bicarbonate.
Click to expand...
That I am aware of. They are somewhat related, though. Did a couple of Google searches looking up this one in particular. I would have to look. I do have 'odorless' mineral spirits. Odorless must be in the nose of the beholder, as there is certainly some odor to the odorless stuff :)

I have not gone deep enough to put what little chemistry knowledge I have to use, plan to look the actual makeup of Naptha and Mineral Spirits and see how much difference there is. I know Naptha is one of the lighter volatiles from the distillation process. When I have some time, I do want to compare the composition of Naptha vs Mineral Spirit vs.... I also plan to do a bit of experimentation and see where that gets me :)
 
Big difference between mineral spirits and naptha. Naptha is "white gas", the kind you use in a Coleman lantern. It's very volatile, probably worse than gasoline. Mineral spirits is thicker and oily. It will burn but burns more slowly, like kerosene, though far cleaner. Mineral spirits is great for cleaning just about anything, and cutting shellac. It can be used to clean old furniture too, when you want something to cut through wax and built up crud. I just used it on my 50 year old polyurethaned bathroom door. Made it look like I'd completely refinished it. I use it often. I even run it through my 40 gallon electric sprayer mixed with a little water to clean out the nozzles and winterize it. Good stuff. Naptha - the only use I have found for it is in my lantern. Though I know it does have other useful applications.
 
Thanks for posting that Tom! Good information. I’ve mostly used mineral spirits to dilute oil finishes and relates applications. Did not know you could cut shellac with it. I’ve always gone the DNA route for that.
 
I have a can of Minwax paste wax that I bought in the mid 1970's. I'm still using it. Obviously, it didn't get used much for a long time, but it never dried out, still smells of solvent and works great.
 
One formula for friction polish is equal parts Shellac, DNA, and mineral spirits. The MS keeps it slippery as you spread it. The DNA hastens drying. Good formula for some applications.
Michael Anderson said:
Thanks for posting that Tom! Good information. I’ve mostly used mineral spirits to dilute oil finishes and relates applications. Did not know you could cut shellac with it. I’ve always gone the DNA route for that.
Click to expand...
 
Michael Anderson said:
What do you all recommend for quill lube? In the past I’ve occasionally wiped it down with linseed oil, knowing that it probably wasn’t the best idea. I’d like to do it right now. I’ve looked around online and the myriad recommendations range from machinist oil to 20W engine oil, to silicone oil. Anyway, is there a consensus on what is best or preferable?

Thanks for the advice!
Click to expand...
What is the important thing here, just keeping the rust off or lubricating the tailstock where there is a need for it, as in where there is pressure on two parts that rub together.
Just the outside of the barrel can be wiped with any good oil, so there is a lubricating film on it, the more important parts are the threads in the shaft and the rotating end in front of the handwheel, it is where there is pressure, like when pushing against a blank or drill bit through the wood.

Some lathes have these trust bearings, but most do not have them, anyway high pressure grease is called for in all those places.
 

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Leftover automatic transmission fluid goes on a bunch of things in my shop. Lubes, protects, doesn't stink, and a good way to use up old stuff from my garage.
 
Leo Van Der Loo said:
What is the important thing here, just keeping the rust off or lubricating the tailstock where there is a need for it
Click to expand...
You’re totally right about that, Leo. My maintenance routine has vastly improved since I first started this thread. I’ve made it a habit to wipe down the quill of it gets wet or covered in wood gunk. And, if I’m working with a lot of really green wood, I’ll rub in some paste wax after I’m done with the ways and my banjo. Works like a charm.
 
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