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Technique and/or Tool Question

R

Randy Heinemann

Joined
Jul 19, 2017
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Location
Roscoe, Illinois
I'm doing the hollow form in the attached pictures. Since I started turning about years ago, I've always been unable to do sharp inside curves like in the picture; between the top of the base and the top of the hollow form. I'm trying to make a more gradual curve rather than the more defined "line" I ended up with. I do want the curve to sort of be like what did, but a little more gradual (not a very good explanation).

I used 3 different size bowl gouges, the smallest a 1/4" to get the result I now have.

What is the best tool for this? Are there any videos online line that might provide some visual help on technique?
 

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When doing tight inside curves I'll use my round carbide scrapers to smooth out the curve. I'll sneak up on it with a small gouge until I can't comfortably make the downhill then uphill transition then sweep it in an arc to the shape I want with a small or large round carbide or neg rake scraper.
 
Randy Anderson said:
When doing tight inside curves I'll use my round carbide scrapers to smooth out the curve. I'll sneak up on it with a small gouge until I can't comfortably make the downhill then uphill transition then sweep it in an arc to the shape I want with a small or large round carbide or neg rake scraper.
Click to expand...
Even with a small negative rake scraper, it seems as if a catch is inevitable. I have a 1/2" round scraper which I turned into a negative rake but was afraid to try it.
 
You might have better luck using a spindle gouge for that deep cove. I find that establishing the curve, and then using scraping/shear scraping can help refine it to where I want it to be.
 
May want to practice on another chunk of wood. 1/4 bg or 3/8 sg. Changing the elements of tool edge movement for coves changes the shape. Experiment with how quickly the flute is rolled open vs lowering the handle and pushing the tool in.

BG With a long wing grind with a bit of curve at the tip may work, flute rolled closed almost vertical, shear scraping with handle almost horizontal.

NRS can be rolled up on edge to create a sharper curve/radius. Keep the cut below tool center. Go uphill, light and slow.
 
Well, you have a sharp line rather than a curve. I think I would use a spindle detail gouge for that. Considering the angles, one of Doug Thompson's fluteless gouges might also work. Possibly even a swept back gouge. Just lay the tool in place and see if you can rub the bevel, without contacting the rim or the body of the piece. A more obtuse angle may work better than a more acute/pointy bevel angle.

robo hippy
 
The easy way, for me, I think, for this particular piece would be to use my Easy Wood round cutter to get the inner curve shaped the way I want it; then use a NR scraper to get rid of any remaining tear out or roughness. I do have a NR Easy Wood cutter so could just use that. I don't use those tools much now except for sometimes roughing out shapes and cutting tenons. They are a remnant of my beginning turning days when I didn't want to sharpen. My point with this piece wasn't to spend a lot of time on the shape but to give me a piece to experiment with carving. I had a plan for this. Just didn't expect I'd have problems getting it to a satisfactory shape.

I am aware I need to practice with my detail spindle gouge. Just when I think I have it down, I take a big chunk out of a piece. It's just not as automatic for me as a gouge or even a scraper.

The result so far was from using swept back gouges of 3 different sizes but I could never get the inside curve rounded like I wanted it. It is not rounded enough.
 
Randy Heinemann said:
am aware I need to practice with my detail spindle gouge. Just when I think I have it down, I take a big chunk out of a piece. It's just not as automatic for me as a gouge or even a scraper.
Click to expand...

Do practice…. It can be an important part of your arsenal
If I have a bowl gouge, spindle gouge, and parting tool - I can turn any outside shape.

Most issues with the spindle gouge are from not following ABC anchor, bevel, cut. Or letting the tip touch the wood with an open flute allowing the wood to drive onto the tool.

When you have some free time. Turn a spin top from a cylinder using only a spindle gouge.
 
I would use a Hunter Viceroy in that situation.
 
It's not the size of the tool that get's you into those spaces.....it's the angle of the grind, if you are going to use a bevel supported cut.
I would personally use a 5/8" spindle gouge (because of the steeper grind, the wings won't hit the other side) and have a bevel supported cut from largest to smallest diameter on one side and then the other. No torn out grain, and can achieve the shape you want.
 
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