Tell us something about small angled random orbital sanders......

[Odie]

I've been experiencing some problems with sanding scratches that seem to only appear AFTER I apply the finish.....and I get a little tired of resanding bowls! We've all been there, done that, I'm sure.....so I'm wondering if a Random Orbitial sander is the key to eliminating these sanding problems.......?

I've never used, or owned a random orbital sander, but it looks like it's what many woodturners are using. I'd like to know what you know about them, please. Is this THE answer?

Are you using a RO sander in conjunction with discs?

I am assuming the coarser grits are best tackled with discs.....but, if you disagree with that assumption, tell us why? At what point is best to switch from discs to RO? 120? 150? 180? or?

How fine a grit should RO be used? In the past very fine grits, 320 on up are easily done by hand using sheet sandpaper. If I get a RO, will it eliminate the need for general use of very fine papers?

Are small angled RO sanders available electrically powered, or are they all pneumatic? Which is best, in your opinion?

I haven't made an extensive search, but I've seen the two small angled RO sanders available from CSUSA and Woodcraft, Apprentice and Grex respectively. Anyone have any comments about these?.....or, suggestions about other brands that should be considered?

I'd appreciate any information about RO sanders that you'd like to share.

If my questions seem a little basic, you're right that I really have no idea what I'm talking about when it comes to RO.

Thanks for your input and help in woodturning matters. You all have been a great help to me in my bowl turning.

otis of cologne

 

[MichaelMouse]

Couple of thoughts. First, a disk rotating inside/outside a rotating piece is pretty close to the same thing you'll get with a ROS. Just as with a ROS you will want to keep the pressure off so you don't glaze wood and show low reflectivity scratches against a high-reflectivity background. You will also want to be careful to blast out or wipe out between grits so you don't carry a bigger chunk around and create swirls.

Coarser work is better with discs, of course, because you can sand more across the gouge ridges you're trying to remove by cutting near 12 or 6 o'clock. You finish each grit with passes at 9 or 3 o'clock to set up the same situation for the next grit. Finer is still best along the grain, but can be a problem as you get edges of the paper that leave compressed burnished areas in steep turnings. I like the sanding sponges for this work.

Steve disagrees, but the optics people claim the 20/20 eye can discern about 300 medium to high contrast line pairs per inch. That's CAMI 320 paper described. In addition, the grain structure of many woods is "coarser" than that. Makes 400 a place to stop sanding (with the grain) and consider brushing/cloth buffing of the wood. That will take the sharp refractive edges off the remaining stuff without having to sand it into oblivion. It'll look smooth, but won't have the chatoyance that comes from open sharp pores scattering light. ROSs make random scatter patterns that are low contrast throughout, compared to straight-line sanding, or, as every flat guy knows, a planed surface that shimmers.

 

[Vince Welch]

Odie,

Good question. I can tell you what my experience has been and what I suggest. First, I always start sanding with 80 or 120 grit to remove any and all unseen tool marks and to insure I have a uniform surface. I used clean fresh abrasives and I take small steps through the grits IE 80,120,150, etc. I always use firm inner face pads for lower grits and a soft inner face pad for 280/320 grit and higher. Sanding with the first grit takes the most time and after that I am just cleaning up previous scratches from the last grit. I sand slow starting at 600-700 RPM max and I slow the speed as I progress through the grits. To answer your question more direct I use a ROS but only after sanding to 280/320 grit. One needs a firm backing when sanding with lower grits because of the material that needs to be removed. After getting to 280/320 grit a soft inner face pad and a ROS can be used. A ROS offers a much different sanding action and can be sanded with little to no speed. Also note a 60 gallon air compressor is the minimum what I recommend for ROS. Smaller tanks will work for a while but are not designed for this type of load. I speak more extensively about this topic on my web page if you care to look.
http://www.vinceswoodnwonders.com/new_page_3.htm
Hope this helps and let me know if I can answer more questions for you.

Vince

 

[n7bsn]

Everyone has a different method of sanding and they are all wrong, er a all right, er ah....

I seldom use my ROS, sometimes on the outside of a large bowl, if I have some tearout to handle. There I have gone as low as 60 grit.

I usually use a 2inch disc. I have three methods of holding it 1) a right-angle drill (I was a Harbor Freight, since the dust can kill a drill quick, it's cheap at $29) 2 A Sorby disc-holder and 3 a Velcro handle that I hold.

I vary the turning speed by what I am doing... If it's the ROS, the lathe is OFF and I move it by hand. If it's the drill, I'm usually turning at 100RPM, maybe 200, but usually 100. If it's the Sorby, faster maybe 500, if it's the Velcro handle it might be as fast at 750.

I also use the drill for the coarser grits, like 80 and 120. By the time I get to 180 I'm certainly off to the Sorby or Velcro.

I limit my step (in grits) to 50%, that is going from 80 to 120 (or 40), then from 120 to 180 (or 60), then 220, 320, 400, 600.... Depending on the wood I keep going to 2000! (if it's really fine grained tight wood)

I also spend a lot more time with the course grits then the fine grits. As I get better with my cutting I notice I spend less time with the 80 grit gouge

 

[GeorgeH]

... You will also want to be careful to blast out or wipe out between grits so you don't carry a bigger chunk around and create swirls.

This is, I believe, the most critical piece of advice you've received thus far.
I was having problems similar to those you describe. When I included this simple procedure in my sanding operations my problems were solved.
I do my best to get a 150 grit finish off the tool. I admit that's nearly impossible with some hard, open grained materials, which sometimes require a coarser grit starting point, but it saves a lot of sanding and makes the finishing process less stressful. Cleaning the surface between grits and fresh clean sandpaper when changing grits. Those are, IMHO, key to a perfectly sanded finish.

 

[robo hippy]

When I first switched from hand sanding to power sanding, I would end up with a lot of scratches under the finish. Mostly it was from not sanding completly through the scratch marks before moving up a grit. To help me see what I had left, I would switch to hand sanding at about 150. It would leave a different scratch pattern, and make it easier to see what I had left behind.

I had discs on rather firm paper, and the paper edges would leave marks also. I prefer over sized discs also. I have noted that the hooks on the pads can leave visible scratches.

Some sanding discs have a better grit consistancy than others. Cheaper papers will always have more pieces of grit that are coarser and stand higher than the rated grit for the paper. This can cause scratches that you don't wipe out. The best discs I have found are the ones from Vince. Maybe it is because they are on a film rather than paper or cloth, but very consistant on the grit. (just a very satisfied customer).

Can't say that I have ever blown out or wiped out before starting on the next higher grit. Some times when I get to the higher grits, I will wipe gently with my hands while the wood is spinning. The finer dust will work its way into the sanding scratches, and high lite them.

Of course, having excellent lighting is a must. Also sanding at lower rpm, and with the sander at lower rpm works. It removes stock just as fast or faster than at higher rpm, and you don't have the heat problems for the pads, the wood, and the discs.

robo hippy

 

[John Nicholas]

Looking for Scratches

When I first switched from hand sanding to power sanding, I would end up with a lot of scratches under the finish. Mostly it was from not sanding completly through the scratch marks before moving up a grit.

Bob Flexner recommends a wipe down with Naptha. It removes the grit from one grit level for me. It also helps you spot those hard to see scratches.

John

 

[Odie]

Bob Flexner recommends a wipe down with Naptha. It removes the grit from one grit level for me. It also helps you spot those hard to see scratches.

John

OK, thanks for all the responses, gentlemen.....

Well, I guess there is no such thing as a compact electrically powered RO sander, except for those "palm" type units.....and, of course, the larger units that are better suited to larger disc diameters, and aren't quite as compact as would be suited for the interior of bowls. What I'll need in something that can handle 2" to 3" discs.....small and compact.

Does anyone have any recommendations between the Woodcraft offering and the CSUSA offering? ....The Apprentice brand, as opposed to the Grex?

I really don't think the occasional problems I've been experiencing is from eliminating any leftover particles from changing over one grit to the next finer grit. I think what I'm seeing is more related to the sanding capabilities of one species of wood over another. I'm sure you are all well aware that some woods just take to sanding well better than others.

I don't believe random orbital sanding is necessary on everything, but I'm thinking it's a good solution to some woods that don't respond to my usual rotating disc (power lock) in conjunction with fine sanding by hand. But, then again......all this is assumptions and theory on my part. I have been known to be wrong about things I theorize about.....prior to hands on testing of those theories!

Any other comments about random orbital?

Again, thanks.......

otis of cologne

 

[Bill Grumbine]

Does anyone have any recommendations between the Woodcraft offering and the CSUSA offering? ....The Apprentice brand, as opposed to the Grex?

Any other comments about random orbital?

Again, thanks.......

otis of cologne

Odie, I can't offer much in the way of comparison between the two you mention above, as I only have the Grex, but I can tell you a couple of things about it. First, I use it all the time now for the last grit. I sand with a drill named Sioux up to my final grit, usually 320, and then take that same grit and sand with the Grex. It does a great job on the outside of bowls and vessels, and a decent job on the inside. The reason for that is that it is somewhat delicate - delicate meaning that it does not take a lot of pressure to stop the random, or even the orbital action! But once you get the hang of using it, it is nice to have and does well. Lots of times I will slow the lathe way down, stop it completely, or even finish up with the piece off the lathe.

The other issue with the Grex is that it is an air hog. I had a Coleman 27 gal compressor with a fake 5 HP motor on it. It was always running out of air, and I would have to wait. Even with that I was happy, as I was not sanding and sanding and sanding. But last spring I was able to add an 80 gal Ingersoll Rand with a real 5 HP motor rated for continuous duty. I can run that thing out of air! Well, at least the motor is running to try and catch up. the smaller compressors will work, but you will have to be patient.

Good luck with it!

Bill

 

[robo hippy]

As an after thought to my previous post, I have only used a ro sander on the outside of the bowls. My palm sander wouldn't fit on the inside of the bowls. I did fit a soft pad to my Fein sander and tried it (it reciprocates/back and forth action) and it didn't work at all. The softness of the pad absorbed all of the action. I do have a Sioux pneumatic drill, and used it for a while. It works well, but the air hose is a bit of a pain. Also, it keeps my compressor running constantly while in use (5 hp 50 gallon Campbell Hausfeld). This is okay in the winter when it is cold out, but not good in the summer as that thing puts out some heat. Conclusion: it takes a lot less electricity to use the Sioux/Milwaukee angle drills than it does the pneumatic drills. I do sand to 400, and that works fine for no visible scratches as long as I sand properly.
robo hippy

 

[Stacey S]

Another option for a pneumatic orbital sander is the one sold by Harbor freight. It retails for $30 and was on sale last week for $20. I have been using one ofr about 1 month now and love it. Also the backing pads are much cheeper. They only cost $2 for a replacement. It comes with a 2" pad but they do have a 3" pad that I think will fit it also. Here is a link to it on Harbor Freights site:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93629

I have recommended it to the members in my club and I have liked it so much that I have purchased a second one.
Stacey

 

[Bob Chapman]

I can't add much to all the advice you've already had, except to say that when I'm power sanding I stop the lathe after each grit, take the pad in my hand and hand sand with the grain. This leaves straight scratches that seem to be more easily removed by the next paper, although I can't see why. I also blow the dust out before moving on to the next grit, as MM suggests.

Bob

 

[Odie]

Another option for a pneumatic orbital sander is the one sold by Harbor freight. It retails for $30 and was on sale last week for $20. I have been using one ofr about 1 month now and love it. Also the backing pads are much cheeper. They only cost $2 for a replacement. It comes with a 2" pad but they do have a 3" pad that I think will fit it also. Here is a link to it on Harbor Freights site:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93629

I have recommended it to the members in my club and I have liked it so much that I have purchased a second one.
Stacey

Are you sure that's an orbital sander, Stacey?

I looked at the link, and don't see where it says so.

otis of cologne

 

[Odie]

Odie, I can't offer much in the way of comparison between the two you mention above, as I only have the Grex, but I can tell you a couple of things about it. First, I use it all the time now for the last grit. I sand with a drill named Sioux up to my final grit, usually 320, and then take that same grit and sand with the Grex. It does a great job on the outside of bowls and vessels, and a decent job on the inside. The reason for that is that it is somewhat delicate - delicate meaning that it does not take a lot of pressure to stop the random, or even the orbital action! But once you get the hang of using it, it is nice to have and does well. Lots of times I will slow the lathe way down, stop it completely, or even finish up with the piece off the lathe.

The other issue with the Grex is that it is an air hog. I had a Coleman 27 gal compressor with a fake 5 HP motor on it. It was always running out of air, and I would have to wait. Even with that I was happy, as I was not sanding and sanding and sanding. But last spring I was able to add an 80 gal Ingersoll Rand with a real 5 HP motor rated for continuous duty. I can run that thing out of air! Well, at least the motor is running to try and catch up. the smaller compressors will work, but you will have to be patient.

Good luck with it!

Bill

Thanks for your low-down on the Grex, Bill.....

You know, I was thinking the Apprentice was a random orbital sander, but on second look, I think it doesn't have the random.....just orbital. (?) Called "dual action" sander, and orbital is mentioned in the description.

Here's the question: What's the difference, as far as sanding quality goes? Is there a difference between random orbital and orbital?

At this point, I seem to be leaning toward the Apprentice because of the trigger action, instead of the paddle action of the Grex. I have die grinders with paddle actions, but I much prefer the drill with a trigger.

I had been thinking that all RO and orbital sanders on bowls required the lathe to be off......I see that you are using the Grex while the lathe is in motion. Is the sander itself stable that way?


I wonder if the Apprentice sander will have more power than the Grex, because it doesn't have the random feature?????

The one thing I never liked about air sanders is they need to be lubricated, and the exhaust has oil in it. I've found that the oil inevitably ends up on your hands.....and the bowl.

otis of cologne

 

[Stacey S]

odie.
Yes it is orbital. I have two of them. it has a bearing in the end that the disc attaches to and when looking at the how the bearing is mounted to the rest of the maching it is mounted off of center giving the orbital motion.

In addtion to your other post. I use my orbital harbor freight sander with the lathe running. the discs will spin freely like a passive sander and then when you run the sander the orbital action starts which I find works very well. I have had no problems with getting good quick sanding done with this new unit with the lathe running. It also works well with the lathe off.
Stacey

 

[Bill Grumbine]

Hi Odie

Random orbit "randomizes" the scratches, whereas orbital just leaves circular scratch patterns. Now, the random isn't quite as random as all that, and if you do not sand completely and with proper technique, you will find a series of hooked sanding scratches covering the surface of your work. However, it is not hard to get proper technique with a little practice.

The sander works well with the lathe moving at a slow speed, but if I get the lathe going too fast, then it negates and random feature on this particular sander. It might for my electric sanders as well, but I have never used them on the lathe.

I don't know about the efficacy of the Apprentice, but I do know my Sioux can be very aggressive. I am not sure if that has to do with the power source or the action.

Oil has not been a problem. It does not need a lot, and the exhaust is blown away from the work. And the paddle took a little time to get used to, but it is not bad once I got the hang of it.

If this gives rise to more questions, let me know.

Bill

 

[Owen Lowe]

OK, thanks for all the responses, gentlemen.....
Well, I guess there is no such thing as a compact electrically powered RO sander, except for those "palm" type units.....and, of course, the larger units that are better suited to larger disc diameters, and aren't quite as compact as would be suited for the interior of bowls. What I'll need in something that can handle 2" to 3" discs.....small and compact.

There is an electric, compact, angle-head, variable speed, well-made random orbit sander that takes 3" disks... Metabo makes it; called the SXE 400. Costs about $110. They're not the easiest things to find in the USA, I could have special ordered one through a local Metabo dealer but instead chose to go through Tools Plus (the second link below) with zero problems.

http://www.metabousa.com/metabo/handgefuehrte/us/en/produkte/discsanders/discsandersxe400_6_00405_42.html
&
http://www.tools-plus.com/metabo-sxe400.html

I've had one for about a year now and it's pretty darned great. My only complaint is that the hand-grip area is a tad large. The standard velcro hook pad that comes with it is about 1/8" too big diameter-wise, so I took it off and trimmed the edge down on my lathe to fit the standard disks turners use.

 

[Odie]

There is an electric, compact, angle-head, variable speed, well-made random orbit sander that takes 3" disks... Metabo makes it; called the SXE 400. Costs about $110. They're not the easiest things to find in the USA, I could have special ordered one through a local Metabo dealer but instead chose to go through Tools Plus (the second link below) with zero problems.

http://www.metabousa.com/metabo/handgefuehrte/us/en/produkte/discsanders/discsandersxe400_6_00405_42.html
&
http://www.tools-plus.com/metabo-sxe400.html

I've had one for about a year now and it's pretty darned great. My only complaint is that the hand-grip area is a tad large. The standard velcro hook pad that comes with it is about 1/8" too big diameter-wise, so I took it off and trimmed the edge down on my lathe to fit the standard disks turners use.

Thanks for introducing me to the Matebo, Owen......

It kind of looks like that configuration might not be as useful for the inside of inward slanting walled bowls, that I'd like.

Can the 2" pads available from CSUSA be adapted to the Metabo?

I haven't purchased a random orbit sander yet, but I'm leaning toward the Grex right now. I recently purchased a Campbell-Hausfield 80gal/4hp 2-stage compressor......so, I should be able to handle an "air hog"!

I'm pretty sure the 2" and 3" pads from CSUSA can be adapted to the Grex.......am I right about that? Bill? Anyone?

Thanks for your comments Bill G......I also have a couple of the Sioux angle sanders. They are great, but I'm looking for a random orbital sander to supplement them for those times when the Sioux is leaving faint circular sanding patterns.

.....and thanks to everyone who responded to my inquiry.....

otis of cologne

 

[Odie]

Just got off the phone with Woodcraft tech support. The Grex uses a 1/4" collet for the sanding pads.......so the pads from CSUSA ought to work ok.

I'm placing an order for the Grex.

Thanks to all.....

otis of cologne

 

[Bill Grumbine]

Odie, I missed your question, being, uhh, involved elsewhere. My Grex has a threaded socket for the pads that use a threaded post. I will have to see if I can get that part out and use the 1/4" collet.

Bill

 

[Odie]

Odie, I missed your question, being, uhh, involved elsewhere. My Grex has a threaded socket for the pads that use a threaded post. I will have to see if I can get that part out and use the 1/4" collet.

Bill

Hi Bill......

Is the threaded socket something you added.....or, did it come with the Grex?

The tech advisor from Woodcraft specifically said the Grex had a 1/4" collet......didn't mention anything else.

The Grex is ordered, and shipped today......should be here in a few days.

Thanks for the "come back".

otis of cologne

 

[Vaughn]

I'm late to the fray, but you ended up getting the sander I would have recommended. I have the Grex and I love it. My only complaint is that my cheap Auto Zone "5 hp" (yeah, right ) compressor has to run constantly to keep up. I usually run mine with the lathe turned off.

I also have the Harbor Freight close quarter drill, and it's also very useful, but I call the Grex my scratch eraser. I think you'll be very happy with it, Odie.

 

[57_T-Bird]

Grex socket picture

The Grex pads use 1/4" threads and screw into the machine.
Here's a pic:

And I love the Grex.
T-Bird

 

[Bill Grumbine]

Odie, mine came that way, and looks like the picture T-Bird posted. BTW, don't throw away the cheesy skinny wrench that comes with it. I thought it was for putting the nipple on the end, and tossed it, only to realize I needed it for changing pads. I had an extra crescent wrench I was able to "thin down" to fit, but I had a bad case of feeling stupid all the time I was working on it.

Bill

 

[Odie]

The Grex pads use 1/4" threads and screw into the machine.
Here's a pic:

And I love the Grex.
T-Bird

OK, thanks for the responses, Vaughn and 57 T-Bird.....

Where did you get the extra threaded Grex pads. I didn't see them on the Woodcraft site.....but, I may have been looking in the wrong places.

otis of cologne

 

[57_T-Bird]

Additional Grex Pads

Odie, I have the 2" and 3" Grex pads.
Got them from "the sanding glove."
I'm new and haven't read all the rules, so won't post link or phone number. But a search will get the info.

Packard woodworks also has both listed.

If you're in an area where there are no good stores, and in a hurry, you could make some following another thread. But instead of using the smooth bolt shaft to chuck up in a drill or such, leave the threads to screw into the Grex. (or use a carriage bolt for the shaft)

Merry Christmas everyone.
T-Bird

 

[Odie]

Ha! Thanks for the tip on the wrench, Bill!

.....and thanks for showing me "the sanding glove" 57 T-Bird......

You'd think Woodcraft would have those Grex sanding pads since they sell the sander. I see the sanding glove has the Grex for 10 bucks cheaper.....oh well!

I guess I better get a couple of extra pads for the Grex.....but I think I'll wait until the Grex gets here. That tech advisor said the Grex had a 1/4" collet......he's probably wrong about that......but, what if the Grex now has a 1/4" collet, instead of the threaded thingie??????

At least, now I know where to get Grex pads.....thanks to you 57 T-Bird!

BTW: Has any of you used the interface pads, the sanding glove has listed? Are they of any use, or is the original Grex pads working out well for you? Is this just one more thing to waste money on.......or?

otis of cologne

 

[57_T-Bird]

Interface pads

Interface pads increase the usefullness, imo.
I have several from several sources.
Do know the 3" gray ½" one came from The Sanding Glove.
Took it off to take the picture.

I don't have the full assortment. The Grex backer pad is solid, so doesn't conform to bowl interior or curved surfaces very well. The soft ½" pad does.
So, yes, I'd suggest at least one pad for each size (2" and 3"). And the soft would be my first choice.

If price isn't an object, the medium pads are probably worth getting also.
Don't see much need for the firm one.

T-Bird

 

[57_T-Bird]

RE: Interface pads

...and interface pads from other suppliers will work too.

T-Bird

 

[Bill Grumbine]

I haven't used the interface pads, but I have been meaning to get some to try.

 

[robo hippy]

The main thing about the interface pads (I take this to mean an extra pad on the mandril) is the pad when it wears out is cheaper to replace than the mandril. I use both firm and soft. If you put 120 on a firm pad, it cuts as well and as fast, or better than 80 grit on a soft pad. I use the firm pads up to about 180 grit or so, then switch to the soft pads. The firm pads don't conform to the inside very well, so you have to angle the pad to get it into the curves. On smaller bowls, I wil use the soft pads, a 3 inch firm pad in a 6 inch bowl can be a bit difficult to maneuver, but it can be done.
robo hippy

 

[Owen Lowe]

Thanks for introducing me to the Matebo, Owen......

It kind of looks like that configuration might not be as useful for the inside of inward slanting walled bowls, that I'd like.

Sometimes it doesn't quite reach into an undercut rim as well as I'd like and I resort to either hand-sanding or my angle-drill. If it's too difficult to get the sander in there, I realized it's pretty difficult to have the ability to view it clearly too.

Can the 2" pads available from CSUSA be adapted to the Metabo?

No. If I know which ones you're talking about... those with the 1/4" stud to fit jaws? The Metabo is just like a random-orbit palm sander from Porter-Cable, DeWalt, Festool, etc. - the pad is fixed and meant to be permanent. I do use interface pads though to get a firmer or softer backing for the sand paper.

I also have a couple of the Sioux angle sanders. They are great, but I'm looking for a random orbital sander to supplement them for those times when the Sioux is leaving faint circular sanding patterns.

Understandable - Since going to the random-orbit, I'm so pleased with the results.

 

[Odie]

Sometimes it doesn't quite reach into an undercut rim as well as I'd like and I resort to either hand-sanding or my angle-drill. If it's too difficult to get the sander in there, I realized it's pretty difficult to have the ability to view it clearly too.



No. If I know which ones you're talking about... those with the 1/4" stud to fit jaws? The Metabo is just like a random-orbit palm sander from Porter-Cable, DeWalt, Festool, etc. - the pad is fixed and meant to be permanent. I do use interface pads though to get a firmer or softer backing for the sand paper.




Understandable - Since going to the random-orbit, I'm so pleased with the results.

Thanks for the come-back Owen......

I'll keep that Matebo in mind, if I can't get the results I'm looking for with the Grex. I got the Grex because I think it will do what I want......but, who knows what I'll think of it, once I get it? Delivery should be on this coming Monday.

Here's a question for anyone.........Since I'm using a Sioux angle sander for most of my work, I intend to use the random orbital sander only for the last finest grit I'm intending to sand. Do you all agree with this?

otis of cologne

 

[Paul Engle]

Just an after thought when you decide what you want to do, when you are done sanding and wipe the piece down, fire the lathe back up and " polish" the surface with a piece of brown paper bag the size of your hand, not a lot of pressure and maybe vary the rpm if it is burning you fingers, or ease up some what , too much pressure. and you will not believe the surface you will get.

 

[Owen Lowe]

Here's a question for anyone.........Since I'm using a Sioux angle sander for most of my work, I intend to use the random orbital sander only for the last finest grit I'm intending to sand. Do you all agree with this?

I use the random orbit almost exclusively. My angle sander is good for aggressive sanding when tearout or tool ridge marks are just being stubborn, but otherwise I random orbit sand.

 

[Odie]

OK, tried the Grex out tonight!

I can see this is going to be a very useful tool to have in the arsenal! I sanded a maple bowl up to 320 and then used the Grex at a slow rpm with 320......as I was hoping, it took care of the very fine circular marks left by hand sanding to 320. I'll experiment with other applications, but I'm pretty happy with the results.....so far!

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.

otis of cologne

 

[Ruth Niles]

I've read this thread with interest, learned a few things and want to thank you all for the in-depth information.

Ruth