Experience good or bad with the "termite" tool Is it worth the money?
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Termite tool
- Thread starter cwearing
- Start date
Experience good or bad with the "termite" tool Is it worth the money?
Termite - one experience
I got one for Christmas. I have worked with it quite a bit making boxes and goblets. It takes some time to get the hang of it but it does do a nice job of hollowing end grain. The little cutting rings clog pretty easy so I keep a pencil handy to poke out the clog. If you don't get the angle just right or try to cut too aggresively it will hog out a divot pretty durned quick so you have to take it easy until you get the feel for the material you're working with. I've used it on cherry, oak, walnut and maple, all dry lumber. Oak and walnut are tough, cherry and maple are a bit easier to cut. It will easily create a nice smooth bottom in an end grain box.
I find it easiest to drill a hole in the work to the depth that I want first. I use a 5/16" bit. The tool also seem a little less "catchy" when starting each hollowing pass from a pilot hole.
Also I discovered the cut is most controllable when the tool is kept parallel to the ways so I drill my center hole, poke the little round cutter into the hole, bring the tool rest up under the shaft and adjust the height until the tool is parallel.
Easy to sharpen if you have a router table and router with 1/4" collet.
My experience has been quite positive.
cwearing said:
I got one for Christmas. I have worked with it quite a bit making boxes and goblets. It takes some time to get the hang of it but it does do a nice job of hollowing end grain. The little cutting rings clog pretty easy so I keep a pencil handy to poke out the clog. If you don't get the angle just right or try to cut too aggresively it will hog out a divot pretty durned quick so you have to take it easy until you get the feel for the material you're working with. I've used it on cherry, oak, walnut and maple, all dry lumber. Oak and walnut are tough, cherry and maple are a bit easier to cut. It will easily create a nice smooth bottom in an end grain box.
I find it easiest to drill a hole in the work to the depth that I want first. I use a 5/16" bit. The tool also seem a little less "catchy" when starting each hollowing pass from a pilot hole.
Also I discovered the cut is most controllable when the tool is kept parallel to the ways so I drill my center hole, poke the little round cutter into the hole, bring the tool rest up under the shaft and adjust the height until the tool is parallel.
Easy to sharpen if you have a router table and router with 1/4" collet.
My experience has been quite positive.
It's works great for end grain turning, I'm glad I have one. So for me yes it is worth while. I had no learning curve with mine. GT
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- May 16, 2005
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Closed hook tool or a gouge at right angles to the shaft. Think of it that way and you'll naturally find the way to use it best. Limiting shaving thickness with gentle pressure helps keep even the smallest ring clear on dry wood, but the wet stuff doesn't break, and the long shavings sometimes loop back on themselves. Pencil, or allen wrench in my case seems a good thing to keep handy.
On the subject of larger rings, the stone I got with my original Termite isn't big enough to sharpen the biggest. May not be true now.
I don't hollow with mine, preferring a pointed gouge for that, but it is a great item for cutting smoothly across end grain at the bottom. Fingernail or pointy cut gouge work better on the sides for me.
On the subject of larger rings, the stone I got with my original Termite isn't big enough to sharpen the biggest. May not be true now.
I don't hollow with mine, preferring a pointed gouge for that, but it is a great item for cutting smoothly across end grain at the bottom. Fingernail or pointy cut gouge work better on the sides for me.
I love mine for endgrain boxes and goblets. I just have the standard tips that come with it. I like the way you can use either edge on the ring for cutting. There is a slight bevel difference between the cutting edges. I find the smaller side of the ring cuts faster but rougher. The larger ring side is finer and smoother.
I don't usually pre-drill a starting hole. I just press the smaller side of the ring into the center with the handle pulled closer to me at about a 30deg angle at the 10 O'clock position on the piece. Then with a scooping motion I sweep the handle straight away from me. Using the tool rest as a fulcrum point. At all times I keep the ring cutter about 10 deg off vertical (the 1-2 O'clock position)
I usually don't worry about the ring getting clogged up....mine seems to clear itself just fine while using.
I am happy I have one. And consider it a good buy.
---Nailer---
I don't usually pre-drill a starting hole. I just press the smaller side of the ring into the center with the handle pulled closer to me at about a 30deg angle at the 10 O'clock position on the piece. Then with a scooping motion I sweep the handle straight away from me. Using the tool rest as a fulcrum point. At all times I keep the ring cutter about 10 deg off vertical (the 1-2 O'clock position)
I usually don't worry about the ring getting clogged up....mine seems to clear itself just fine while using.
I am happy I have one. And consider it a good buy.
---Nailer---
One of the best end grain hollowing tools I've used for smaller turnings is the Soren Berger end grain hollowing tool. it doesn't clog because it is open. I don't own the Termite but have heard good things from others.
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good, yes.
The termite is a ring tool and it does what it does very well. It is great for hollowing small boxes and will yeild a very clean surface. With practice you can hollow a box without drilling a hole. The termite will pick up the cut just bit right of center and with a bit more practice you can have a flat or slightly concave bottoms.
One caution is that I have encountered a number of folks over the years who owned a termite but hadn't learned to use them. After 5 minute of hands-on they were off and running. The tool has a bevel and it needs to ride the surface, you can srape with it too. Too much cut an you will clog the tool (turn it over and it unclogs)
Presenting the tool to the wood cutting edge first without bevel riding will yield a big catch at eht wood drive onto the tool just like it does onto a gouge.
Another tool to consider is the Ray Key gouge. This tool is spindle gouge with the right side round away and steep bevel (60-65 dregrees). it can cut straight accross the bottom of a box with the bevel riding and the upper (right side) isn't their to interfer with the cut.
The termite is a ring tool and it does what it does very well. It is great for hollowing small boxes and will yeild a very clean surface. With practice you can hollow a box without drilling a hole. The termite will pick up the cut just bit right of center and with a bit more practice you can have a flat or slightly concave bottoms.
One caution is that I have encountered a number of folks over the years who owned a termite but hadn't learned to use them. After 5 minute of hands-on they were off and running. The tool has a bevel and it needs to ride the surface, you can srape with it too. Too much cut an you will clog the tool (turn it over and it unclogs)
Presenting the tool to the wood cutting edge first without bevel riding will yield a big catch at eht wood drive onto the tool just like it does onto a gouge.
Another tool to consider is the Ray Key gouge. This tool is spindle gouge with the right side round away and steep bevel (60-65 dregrees). it can cut straight accross the bottom of a box with the bevel riding and the upper (right side) isn't their to interfer with the cut.
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Easy learning curve
I tried one at a Woodcraft store last summer. It took me about 3 minutes to learn how to present it to the wood. The salesman showed me how to practice on the face of a piece, so I can see what is happening and learn how to present it to the wood. Once you have that down, you can really move some wood. It is a great tool. I'd like to adapt one to a hollowing tool I used to manufacture with a laser follower. It might happen if I ever catch up on Kartina repairs.
I tried one at a Woodcraft store last summer. It took me about 3 minutes to learn how to present it to the wood. The salesman showed me how to practice on the face of a piece, so I can see what is happening and learn how to present it to the wood. Once you have that down, you can really move some wood. It is a great tool. I'd like to adapt one to a hollowing tool I used to manufacture with a laser follower. It might happen if I ever catch up on Kartina repairs.
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Hermin De Vries has good pics and info
I find his information very helpful.
http://www.hdv.net/tips/termite.htm
I find his information very helpful.
http://www.hdv.net/tips/termite.htm
CW,
I have a termite tool and love it! It is a great tool and I aggree with the posts here concerning how you introduce the tool to the wood. I got a lesson first hand from Kevin Clay the manufactor of the tool. He told me you have to introduce the tool with the tool pointing to 9 oclock. He stated that most people want to introduce the tool at a straight up 12 position. This is no good! But if you start your cut from the 9oclock position you are in control!!! This tool will remove some wood and can become aggresive taking a big cuts. But like evrything else it takes a minute to get use too. The second item I need to mention is that this tool is to be sharpened with a router. Oneway does not recommend anything else really. Although I have heard of people using a round file to get the job done. Hope this helps and feel free to call the folks at Oneway. They have great support! Ask for Kim or Kevin and tell them Vince says hi. Vince
I have a termite tool and love it! It is a great tool and I aggree with the posts here concerning how you introduce the tool to the wood. I got a lesson first hand from Kevin Clay the manufactor of the tool. He told me you have to introduce the tool with the tool pointing to 9 oclock. He stated that most people want to introduce the tool at a straight up 12 position. This is no good! But if you start your cut from the 9oclock position you are in control!!! This tool will remove some wood and can become aggresive taking a big cuts. But like evrything else it takes a minute to get use too. The second item I need to mention is that this tool is to be sharpened with a router. Oneway does not recommend anything else really. Although I have heard of people using a round file to get the job done. Hope this helps and feel free to call the folks at Oneway. They have great support! Ask for Kim or Kevin and tell them Vince says hi. Vince
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Vinces WoodNWonders said:
I sharpen mine using an air powered die grinder. The router probably does a better job because of the higher rpm. I used one a couple of times when I first got the termite about 12 years ago.
For me it is click, click, zoom, zoom, sharp enough
vs pull out the router table, hunt up the router wrench, put in the bit and maybe a wee bit sharper.
Also the router set up seems a lot more uncomfortable than the die grinder.
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Vinces WoodNWonders said:
Drill press here. Just could not get into swinging a stone at that speed. Mount the holder to the table, lower the quill and let it work. It's been good for me, and I didn't have to worry about the integrity of the larger stone I had to buy for the big ring.
Does seem to violate the perpendicular to the edge rule of sharpening, though.