Please read the new sticky announcement HEREfor full details.
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
The wood is soft maple. How not to get that tiny little hole in the middle. It seems the deeper I go with the spindal gouge, the deeper the hole goes. Darn hole is about 1/16 of an inch. The wood is very prone to tear out compared to hard maple or cherry.
Slowwwwww the cut down. Shallow cut 1/64 or less....
as you cut to the center with a light cut a tiny parasol will appear.
concentrate on catching it in the flute. This will eventually get you to turning a clean surface.
its Better to cut at tiny bump in the middle rather than digging a hole
the tiny bump will sand await in seconds with 220 or 320.
It is possible to get that perfectly cut, but it is difficult. Like others have said, slow the cut WAY down. The proverbial "if the frog is at one end of the log and jumps 1/2 the way to the end of the log, can it ever get to the end of the log?' Kind of the same thing here with feet/minute, is the dead center actually moving at all??? If it is end grain, then a NRS can work very well. Leaving a small nipple works great.
To keep.from.getting hole in the middle.slow down. The wood is moving past the cutter so slow it barely cuts. If you push it at this point it tears out the wood leaving a hole. I heard Mark Sillay say it best. You think about moving the tool. You move so slowly that just thinking about moving the tool is fast enough. He was turning very small thin points on a spindle. Another tip is to rotate the flute to 3 o'clock. This closed flute position let's it cut slower and wont cut if you go beyond center which will also leave a.slight dip.