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The skew chisel.

@John K Jordan, thanks for the MDF tutorial. I've got a few stiff leather strops (suede side up) in the shop that work well, but I've wondered about MDF. I'll pick up a small piece the next time I'm at the home center. I've also heard about old denim and cardboard (notebook back cardboard), mounted to a flat backer, to act as the substraight for the lapping/honing compound. Maybe I'll research those just for giggles.

I agree on the EZ Lap sticks. Purple is about 250-300g, red is 600g, blue is 1200g. There is even an extra course black, maybe 120-150g? These sticks are readily available and work well. (Does DMT make them? I don't recall, even though I've had several in the shop for decades.)

For diamond plates of different sizes, DMT is the benchmark brand. They should be available from many sources but Sharpening Supplies in Wisconsin is a big seller of them. I think DMT has the better plate construction and quality control. I like the solid metal plates with full diamond coverage rather than the plastic versions that have the dot matrix look.

When I stopped at the WTW booth at the St. Paul symposium, they were selling double-sided CBN honing sticks the same size as the EZ Lap sticks, 600g on one side, 1000g on the other. I picked one up, but honestly I keep forgetting I have it! They have plenty of CBN hone devices to offer, and the 1"x5" I bought sells for $13.95. Worth buying a few for any shop.

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Steve Tiedman said:
When I stopped at the WTW booth at the St. Paul symposium, they were selling double-sided CBN honing sticks the same size as the EZ Lap sticks, 600g on one side, 1000g on the other. I picked one up, but honestly I keep forgetting I have it! They have plenty of CBN hone devices to offer, and the 1"x5" I bought sells for $13.95. Worth buying a few for any shop.
Click to expand...

Actually, I think CBN honing plates and sticks are not as useful as diamond. The reason we use CBN is that diamonds will degrade when grinding on carbon-based materials such as steel where heat is created. (Since diamonds are 100% carbon.) The only diamond wheels used in industry are those in a matrix that gets worn away so new diamonds are constantly exposed. Tormek had sold a diamond wheel but the rotational speed of the Tormek is so slow heat is not a problem. I researched all this at one time but have forgotten some of the details of the chemical process involved.

WTW has sold CBN honing plates for years but I considered them popular only because CBN was a “buzz word” to turners. Long time ago Ken special-ordered some heavy diamond plates for me at a good price they continue to work well - hand use will never generate significant heat. I’ve used them quite a bit, even to sharpen expensive ceramic shearing cutters for shearing my llamas - worked well, even though the company said they couldn’t be sharpened! I just used a little water as a lubricant and to wash away the ceramic particles.

JKJ
 
You certainly can strop and hone skews but you definitely don’t have to. I use mine straight from a 180 CBN, and Steve Jones (until he recently also upgraded to 180 CBN) used to use his straight from an 80 grit stone. So yes, skews absolutely must be sharp, but don’t get hung up on it, get on the lathe and practice.

I have a playlist on the skew on my YouTube that you might find helpful:

youtube.com

Skew chisels

This collection of videos offers help and advice for using your skew chisel, aiming to improve your skew skills and help to avoid those dreaded catches! Each...
youtube.com youtube.com

Richard
 
Manny Yabar said:
Thank you for the info. Can you suggest /recommend a diamond honing plate? would you have a link you want to share? thanks
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I use these from DMT https://a.co/d/baYYCKo.

A decade ago I tried a set of the ezelap and they wore more quickly than DMT. The mdf JKJ shows works well for stropping, but my bandsaw would not make a flat enough surface. An option is to take a piece of mdf, place 60 gr paper or belt on a flat surface, and rough up the mdf to hold the compound.

I use chromium oxide compound similar to this: https://a.co/d/7h4eYg0
 
Doug Freeman said:
I use these from DMT https://a.co/d/baYYCKo.

A decade ago I tried a set of the ezelap and they wore more quickly than DMT. The mdf JKJ shows works well for stropping, but my bandsaw would not make a flat enough surface. An option is to take a piece of mdf, place 60 gr paper or belt on a flat surface, and rough up the mdf to hold the compound.

I use chromium oxide compound similar to this: https://a.co/d/7h4eYg0
Click to expand...
Ah, DMT and EZ Lap sticks are different, thanks for clarifying. I'll try the DMT sticks next time.

I use the green chromium oxide wax sticks, too. I like the one Lee Valley sells, the wax base seems slightly softer than others I've tried, rubs on leather a bit easier. I've tried Tormek paste buffing compound, but that abrasive, although incredibly fine, is still a larger mesh/grit than the Lee Valley. I don't recall the numbers. And the paste dries up and seems to get sort of flaky on the strop. Maybe I'll try it again on a piece of MDF. I strop for bench chisels and plane irons, too.
 
I have tried many different strop bases, and my favorite is some poplar. Well, that and my Tormek. Both work fine. I have a few plywood ones and a couple covered with kangaroo hide, the thin stuff, It doesn't compress like some leathers do. I do have some saddle leather from the scrap bins at a local leather company too.1 ounce, I think. I don't really notice any difference. There are many who say the skew doesn't need to be stropped, but it did make a difference for me. One sharpening channel I wateh, ISharpen, prefers kangaroo tail with no compounds on it. To show how sharp his knives are when he is done, he slices cigarette rolling papers.

robo hippy
 
When I started woodturning the skew figured heavily as most of my work was spindle based. I have a selection of sizes but all have a straight skewed edge sharpened to 40 degree inclusive angle (20 each side) on a pro edge ceramic belt and honed on a diamond stone. I don't use skews much during the majority of the year as I now do mostly "faceplate" work. The skew is brought out for Christmas ornaments and I try to do as much of the project as possible using the skew. Colwin Way is my inspiration for many of these projects and he is now selling his "Signature Skew Chisel" through Axminster tools. It is a German style splayed skew like the one shown by Bill Alston in this thread on Aug 12 '25. He says the advantages are:
  • Easier to handle, flared tip counterbalances the handle
  • Shorter handle gives greater level of control
  • Design results in more sensitive feel when making planing cuts
  • Rolled edge glides along the tool rest smoothly
  • Chisel rolls evenly when cutting beads
I might ask Santa to drop one down my chimney when he is passing so I can try it out!😉
 
Just an opinion but I think the German design is from way back when a smith forged lathe tools. He started with a square piece of steel and flattened the business end and the narrower end was drawn out to lengthen the tool and fit in a handle.

I ain’t no blacksmith but it’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
 
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