looking for advice on thread cutting jigs. Anyone that has used one can you give me some insight and recommendations please.
Who'd thunk that someone would complain that a box had too many threads. I have never had a complaint about the number of threads. Learn something new every day.
You just reminded me about that great gift you gave me! I have to turn something with it. It is by now acclimated to Maui, LOLOriginally they were called 'pill' boxes. For a while we called them 'stash' boxes. Then 'curio' boxes, and now we can go back to stash boxes. Pill box does imply 'medicinal'....
Hey Emeliano, If you bring your thread chasers, I will have some Mountain Mahogany with me which as Allen Batty said, 'it is the only North American wood suitable for thread chasing...
robo hippy
The finer the thread the more precision necessary, however for the most part wood is not a precision material. The course thread say 11tpi if you can get it would be best and don't even buy the 16tpi.All:
Great helpful info...thanks for the input. Of course I plan on threading the usual stash/curio/pill/stash boxes (nothing like a bit of history to flavor the soup, Robo) but I would also like to thread some 12+ inch urns. Am I to understand that 16 tpi might be the utility fix here...or do I also need to buy a courser thread maybe in addition to the 16?
Removing material to get the grain to line up on average would be 1/2 the distance of one thread, however getting the grain lined up doesn't always stay lined up due to that nasty seasonal change.For me, the difference in how fine or coarse your threads are, as in 16 tpi or 8 to 10 tpi is how far you need to go to time the threads, which means how much of the shoulder you have to remove to get the grain to line up. With 16 tpi, that is 1/16 of an inch, which is fairly minimal. With 8 tpi, that goes to 1/8 inch which may be enough to require you to cut the threads farther down as well as adjusting the shoulder.
Emiliano, I had to stop and think, was that some Mountain Mahogany???
robo hippy
Rich: Thanks. I've watched your YouTube video 3 times now and I truly admire what you have done there. The amount of thought and design is tremendously impressive. However, I think (for me) I'd have to finish out my PhD before even beginning to build one of these. Fascinating to think about but way way beyond my current skill set to fabricate of one of these interesting machines.You know, for the cost of one of the high end models, you could put together an MDF rose engine lathe, and get all the threading options you’d want + a whole lot more!
Thanks John but I have thought of another consideration for alignment and that is the fine pitch thread will have a wider range when tightening. Example: say you have an 8 pitch (1/8" per turn) when closing the distance between initial contact and tight may be only 1 degree of turn, where as a 16 pitch would have a wider range and be more susceptible to over tightening.Don is right seasonal changes affect the lid alignment.
You know, for the cost of one of the high end models, you could put together an MDF rose engine lathe, and get all the threading options you’d want + a whole lot more!
Rich: Thanks. I've watched your YouTube video 3 times now and I truly admire what you have done there. The amount of thought and design is tremendously impressive. However, I think (for me) I'd have to finish out my PhD before even beginning to build one of these. Fascinating to think about but way way beyond my current skill set to fabricate of one of these interesting machines.
Rich, assuming a basic MDF rose engine lathe, how is threading done? The "whole lot more" I can visualize, not the threading though.
I will soon publishing all the directions for the MDF rose engine lathe 2.0.
Rich, thanks for the explanation.
When you mentioned "MDF" I was assuming a very basic rose engine like Jon Magill's kit which I don't believe could do the threading operations easily.
My rose engine was a hybrid, part CNC and part conventional rose engine, that one could have done threading easily. Needless to say, it wasn't well received by the traditional rose engine folks back around 2000. After attending the Seattle area OT symposium (2005?) I pretty much lost interest in ornamental turning.
On edit: Rich, I went to the website OTBOK.info. Jon Magill is shown talking about "organic" shapes at the 2018 Seattle meet. That's where CNC came in on my rose engine, it could do most any shape.
Donovan,
I will soon publishing all the directions for the MDF rose engine lathe 2.0.
Rich
Any chance that the directions will include "international" (= metric) measurements?